This channel is to document and share some of my projects and builds with the internet world.
I do custom etching and vinyl cut, screen printing, including signage and vehicle graphics. I also make a lot of things in Metal, Wood, Fabric, Leather, 3D Printing, the list goes on and on. Do new things, attempt things I've never done before, and put it here on the web for others to watch.
Hi! would this also work with older Pi models? Would love to use as little power and space as possible by using simpler models like the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W or the Raspberry Pi 3 A+
Always wondered how deep etching can go. I have a few idea for logo plaques that would be difficult to engrave with a mill or router, can't laser cut the letters either cus then the middles of O's for example would fall out and i don't want supports. The hope was to get the mass of the letters out so i have a bit of depth to fill with something for a nice contrast to the stainless plate. If all goes to shizzle i could just do what knife makers do and etch the logo, cold blue, and then sand the surface.
Thank you. Very helpful. Im removing some old double pain windows in the porch. I want to reuse the glass to make diamond shape leaded glass panels to insert on each side of the replacement window.
Conduit is very expensive, look for direct burial cable. You can also use water pressure to push a string rabbit through the pipe. Using dish liquid for lube works miracles as well.
I have some questions please. 1. How important is the temperature of the water ? 2. Does the sacrificial part have to be that big, don't you just need contact for the current to flow through the solution ? 3. Does the sacrificial part have to be of the same material as the part being etched ? Then lastly I think brushing it with a paint brush every so often will get rid of the bubbles or you can have a mechanism slowly rocking it so the solution rushes over the part and getting rid of the bubbles.
Rake and hoe seem interchangeable and, while both are correct, rake is less commonly used in the US. I think Ken got the wrong end of the “long-handled gardening tool” on this one. If, perhaps, they had engendered the answer-rake being male and hoe being female-then the question would have been more obvious.
I know it's too late for this project. I am an electrical contractor for over 30 years. If you use nylon string that is shown in this video, you will have a potential problem with cutting into the conduit wherever there is a 90, if that happens the string will break and cause a cut line in your conduit, and some major problems for your conduit run. The best thing to use is what they called jet line. It's a flat nylon pole string made for exactly what he is attempting to do. And to get the jet line through the conduit, if you can create a strong seal on one end of the conduit in a vacuum, a good vacuum will pour the jet line through. I'm glad all went well for this gentleman.
pro-tip, if u use a wet sponge between the two electrodes in stead of the huge water bath it would lower the resistance significantly resulting in much efficient and faster result
I just discovered that I years ago put in wrong color wire in a 100-foot 1" half conduit wondering if I should pull it all out and redo it or leave it. There is white tape on the neutral, but not legal. It was before I knew what I was doing with electrical work.
Only had one speaker part of the time through the jack different problem than this. I now think it's a good idea to tape the speaker/headphone cable to the back of the tv a few inches out so it's supported and the weight of the cable isn't on the component creating a bad solder or causing a bad connection between the contacts of the component and the cable at one of the points on the plug at least if it's a tv on the wall with the cable hanging way down like mine. Great vid, it helps to shake off the intimidation after seeing how to crack into one of those you can jump right in, ty.
I've only had my Smock for a couple weeks, but it is, by far, one of my most favorite knives of my small (30) collection. Picked it up secondhand with a chipped blade and aftermarket scales for below regular MSRP. Fixed the blade up with an in-depth sharpen and polish. The action is already ultra buttery smooth, so I'm wondering if Skiff bearings could even improve it. But for about $15, I'll probably pick up a pair eventually when I get new scales.
Why not use a air compressor with a mouse and just push it through by turning the compressor on and having the hose end into the conduit with the string in a bucket let it rip probably take 5 seconds,,
We have a 1927 Buick and the original fuel gauge was not only not operational when we rescued the car after sitting 30+ years untouched but also when I attempted to clean the gauge any markings for “F 3/4 1/2 2/4 and E” came right off! I had seen a video on YT about etching using a small battery or a battery trickle charger, a Q Tip, and some water/salt mixture as an electrolyte! So I used a 1.5 amp motorcycle trickle charger… I masked the gauge after cleaning and hooked the leads up from the charger to the fuel gauge, obviously it wasn’t in a tank of fuel, and to the cotton of my Q Tip, and dipped the cotton into the water/salt mixture and I believe I used a splash of vinegar in the mixture if u recall. I friend replicated the original markings for me with his vinyl plotter, I etched the face of the gauge using this simple method and got a very deep etch. After etching the gauge face I used a gas tank sealer in the relief left before unmasking, then used a 0000 steel wool to remove any excess black fuel tank sealer in the markings in the fuel gauge face and it also polished up the aluminum face itself! Came out looking brand new!!!! I’ve since shared this on a classic car forum and it’s been used many times over! Very simple method that ANYONE can do!!!
Thank you for this video! I was kind of taken back by the suggestion of beating my mallet on the ground as well. This seems like a much smarter way of doing the same thing. 😅
You know I've had mine for few years and I remember this video motivating me to make them. Do you know how often I used them? Almost never. I made them quiet big like tripods so moving them and setting them up was a pain but I could work standing up. Trouble is 9/10 times I simply tack weld on a spot and then bend at the angle I'm happy. I still keep them in case I ever need x2 third hands holding something for me.
Oh one more thing. The other "third hand" I made like a pointing finger with lots of weight is actually the one I use slightly more often. Say You want to weld a washer upright on top of a bolt but you don't want to hold it as it's too close to the fingers.
I would definitely not put any metal objects in a microwave. I do use a plastic cup to heat my ferric chloride with a paper towel over the top but I only do it in a few second increments and keep checking temp to not exceed the recommended maximum temperature of 131 degrees F or 55C.
