SPECIAL REQUEST: I AM TARGETTING 1K SUBSCRIBERS, so every one of your subscriptions means a lot to me. Please subscribe & share with your friends & family to subscribe.
If I can do it, you can do it. Learn how to fix anything from cars to household repairs to tools. Learn how to do special household projects. Everything DIY way. Anything I do I find will help the community, I film it, edit & then publish the video. Keeping short & essential giving you value for time.
Comments are always welcome, please do like & share video which you think helped you or will help someone you know.
Great description for how to find it broken, was able to walk my wife through that over the phone. The issue is I need to know where it connects once I have the new one!
Turns out my brushes are fine, the commutator is fine and after cleaning and putting back together with cleaning all contact points, I'm still showing low voltage cranking at around 9v on a good battery. Maybe I have a bad solenoid?
Finally someone explains the intermittent issue. So many other videos talk about if it flat out doesn't work or is just sluggish. I'm having the intermittent issue and as I understand it, it's carbon from the brushes wearing between the gaps and filling them up, shorting two or more together at a time as it spins, making it not run efficiently. I really hope my brushes aren't worn because it seems BMW don't sell a bush plate for my bike. And it's about £355 for a whole new starter. This really is disgusting, making you buy the whole thing.
I'm having issues with my 06 azera now where the key goes in and turns over to acc mode then sticks there and won't go any further. It is a problem only half the time and the other half it starts just fine. In your opinion would changing this part fix that? Thanks for any input
Thanks for making this great video, very precise and to the point! Just finished install and took out for a drive and everything is perfect, including eco start. One thing I’m not sure about is on my mirrors; the blind spot monitoring and RTD icons have a small dot which I found out, pops up on the mirrors and goes away when 6mph is reached. It is a self diagnostics of sorts. I think that may be influenced by the eco battery because I don’t recall seeing them before and now that the dead battery is replaced, it is prevalent.. Maybe someone might know more on that?
Thanks for your kind appreciation and I am glad this video helped you. I am not familiar with the internals of blind spot monitoring system on this make & model. However, based on your explanation, this is what I found on internet. See if this helps you further diagnose, if you are really experiencing any issues or its just way of system to tell you, it's there or not. "A warning indicator (2) illuminates in the door mirrors when the blind spot monitor system is disabled, not active, or there is a system fault." Reference: www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/4K/2023/1656982/proc/G2436165/G2930878
Thank you!!! Very well explained. This is a life saver. Also thanks to wonderful cameraman! I will think about you at Holi festival this year! Thanks again!
hi .. thanks for the video 👍 I have the same car model, but the problem is that the car rusts back and forth only when I'm on holidays, the problem only starts after having driven 1000 kilometers. if there is a queue start the problem ☹️ I put on 1 Gere rusts the car. usually it never does the engine does not rust either. think they have the same problem as yours or coupling problems. 🙏🙏🙏
If you are talking about back n forth jerking issue with your car, I don't think its related with engine mount. Bad engine mount causes constant vibration in the body which you can feel even when inside the car. I hope I am wrong but your problem seems more to me a transmission related issue.
Hi. Found the video very informative thanks. Can you tell me if you suffered a clunk or knock felt up the gearstick when pulling away? As this is the noise I have with a slight I ration inside the cab around 70mph I’ve changed the gearbox/chassis mounting and had the DPF refitted with a new crunch washer . Thanks
@@AllHandsMechanic no but recently got through MOT with no faults. It’s only on take up when pulling away no noise over speed bumps etc just take up. I’m looking at engine mountings to see if they could be the problem. Will look at axle too thanks
It’s been a long time since I worked on that car. I don’t remember everything, so take my words with grain of salt, bu I don’t think, you will be able to pull out the cylinder with your steering wheel locked. Find ways to unlock the steering wheel and get to accessory mode to be able to pull out the lock cylinder out.
I'm pretty sure the clicking is the solenoid, but the motor is not turning and not pushing out the gear to engage. If it is pushing out and engaging then it is working right.
If you hear the clicking, that means the solenoid is pushing the gears out. But if the car is not starting, it is because the starter motor is not turning, so 99% it will be fixed by cleaning up your motor brushes.
Hi Deepak, I couldn't find this on ebay anymore. I remember it was definitely listed there at that time. But you can search google for Hyundai Kia Rekey Kit and make sure the kit covers your car model. Something like this www.americankeysupply.com/product/hyundai-kia-combination-keying-kit-asp-11146. But I am sure, if you are looking hard enough, you can find that for cheaper.
Matthew 6:19-21 NKJV "Do not lay up for yourselves treasures on earth, where moth and rust destroy and where thieves break in and steal; [20] but lay up for yourselves treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor rust destroys and where thieves do not break in and steal. [21] For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also.
Its been a while since I last worked on Ford Focus, so can't tell you for sure. Sorry about that. But you can call your nearest dealership parts department with your VIN# and ask for how many HVAC Door Actuators your car has, they should be able to confirm you accurate information.
this guy doesnt know what hes talking about. The "tumblers" inside the cylinder are not steel, and the key isn't bronze, its brass. Also the "tumblers" in the cylinder are brass.
Thanks for your corrections, really appreciate your input. My goal is not to spread misinformation but to give some insight to anyone facing the same challenges with their car. Some information is better than no information. At the end, we are all learning and I dont claim to be Mr Know it all.
My dealership said this would be a $1500 fix!😅😅😅 SO glad I decided to look up the issue and fix it myself :) I get a cheap car repair AND more mechanic experience
Hello. My engine mount is also gone. Mazda dealer is asking 350$ for OEM mount which seams crazy because if it was that good it would have lasted longer. I found KAVO for 120$ and would like your advice can I use KAVO or can you recommend some other aftermarket brand?
IMHO, even $120 is pretty high amount for a mount. If you are based out of USA, I would highly recommend buying it from your local AutoParts stores like Autozone & Oreilly. You will get it for half that price, and it does last very long time. On the plus, you also get lifetime warranty on the part, so if it ever fails again, you get free replacement. PS: Do make sure to take the top center bolt with you when visiting the store to make sure it fits. Otherwise, if you don't find the perfect fit for the part, Bolts are cheap buy from any Hardware store.
No I didn't, its much cheaper to buy a used one & replace it. I am sure, opening the unit & trying to fix the leak would be a sophisticated job. If you end up doing it, please share updates here and may be post a video, so others will know alternative ways to fix it.
oil is redish and will pool near the mount.. I replaced this mount a year and a half ago..Now I'm getting oil leak and it's bulging and it is resting like you showed..I just replaced the tranny mount maybe 7 months ago ,And the bottom mount I just replaced today.. it wasn't that bad but I replaced it anyway..And good thing I did because they were A little bit loose the bolts.....But I noticed while I was doing it I saw dripping and I traced it back up to the top engine mount ,, I could tell something wasn't right because I get a little more engine vibration in the car..Since I got all the engine Mounts at AutoZone they're guaranteed for life so I'm about to go over there and get a new one it's like $100 its covered atleast..Worth the extra few dollars because it's guaranteed for life if it fails again ,,I can get another replacement... maybe that loose bolt put more strain on this particular mount or it could've been the tranny mount that put alittle more stress on it .. I added a little Loctite to the bottom engine mount bolts just in case it decides to loosen up again and there's a new mount now
Thank you very much for your video. I am suffering the same problem you described with engine-mount and central screw. They sold me a (new) bad engine-mount because when I´ve finished the work, the engine support was sitting on the rubber zone of the mount :-(. Now, I'm tired of going to store and ordered the part and bolt from Mazda. It is more expensive but the success is sure. I'll tell you when I install my new mount. Thank you again.
Best place to go is AutoZone they guaranteed them for life...I've already replaced mine twice over seven years .. Each time it cost me nothing if I didn't go to AutoZone I wouldn't have that and they fail just as easy from other places or dealer I'm about to do it a third time that's why I'm here in the chat ...It will cost a little more initially but you'll have that warranty..The first time I did that I went to the dealer and got dealer mount ..For some reason these mounts fell easy even from the dealer
@@AllHandsMechanic Did a little research and found that they are not "food grade" nor NSF Certified. Continuing my search for O-Rings that are. Thank you for your informative video. You might want to let folks know about this information just as a disclaimer.
