Most of the videos you will see on this channel will be related to greenwood working. This can include a number of different items, but it will mostly be related to spoon carving in one way or another.
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I have the double bevel, and got a right hand bevel, but that is not good. It has hammer marks in the actual bevel. And to remove it would take to much metal away. They are not always good. Two have gone back both very poor.
It’s obviously not plastic in a literal sense. Actual plastic is made from crude oil- which is why I made the reference that a polymerizing oil turns into something that feels like plastic.
Question for you sir.i have been carving black walnut spoons and have had people tell me you can't eat or cook with them because of the chemical make up.should I keep carving them or change wood.thank you.
Hello! There is absolutely nothing wrong with Black Walnut for food contact nor is there one for eating directly from it. The likelihood of an allergic reaction is almost zero since people with “tree nut allergies” are allergic the protein in the nut itself- not the wood. Hope this helps!
Awesome video thank you! I have the gransfors wildlife but I find myself always going towards the wood tools carving axe the most! It's a great tool at a great price!
I sold my GB WL hatchet. Could not stand the skinny handle with a ridge, and didn't feel it was worth re-hanging. It's too light and my plans are to try out bowl carving next. Looking to purchase GB carving axe now, same as in this video.
Just a heads up- sanding will almost always leave a fuzzy finish. Burnishing will certainly compress the fibers and give a silkier feel, but once the spoon is moist again the fibers will undoubtedly raise up again.
@@HuronSpoonCo Thanks Up until now I’ve been struggling with my skill level with the knife for the final finishing, and have been using the sanding as a method to get the final shape, Recently I’ve managed to do a few with only the knife to almost the exact final shape, but then sanded them to remove the flat spots and carving marks. Practice makes perfect as they say. 😁
Thank you for taking the time to share your skills. Simply amazing! The axe does save the wear & tear on your joints rather then just using a knife. I’m just starting out, WOW I have a lot to learn. Thanks again.🙏🏼
Abrading wood just creates torn fibers, which is not conducive to a good finish. Plus, if there is a method that’s inexpensive, quick, and easy- why wouldn’t I use it?
The transition between the handle and the bowl gets me every time as does the bowl edge on one side or the other it will get real thin and be kinda flat or straight up and down and it loses the rounded look. The other thing is I carve a hole in the bottom of the bowl. Thanks for the video on the keel.
I think we all struggle with those things until we gain enough experience. I carved hundreds of spoons before I produced one that I really liked and now that I’ve carved over 1,000 I still find something I don’t like about every single one. Don’t be too hard on yourself. Spoon carving has a steep learning curve.
Good question! I lay them completely flat and make three motions all at once: 1- twisting between my fingers and my thumb through each pass 2-moving all the way from handle to tip (and in some cases all the way from tip to handle) 3-as I make each pass, the sharpening sticks move slightly from spine to cutting edge as well. If you were to just move the stick straight up and down the blade, it would cut the paper. This also helps the burr raise.
Subbed today. Thanks alot for your Videos. They are super helpful and contain clear instructions. You are strictly talking usefull information. Thanks again for putting out this Content free of Charge❤️. Keep up the good work👍
The weight doesn’t sound like it would be a problem but the ergonomics and geometry could be. It would also need a proper scandi grind, which would likely be too thin since cleavers are much thinner than axe heads.
Great video - I got some basic carving tools but it's looking like a really need to get an axe of some kind for roughing out (alternatively, I could use my grandfather's band saw, but either way I need a more permanent solution)
I read that metal shapers used to soak their body hammers in antifreeze to keep the heads tight on the wooden handles. Maybe reintroducing moisture to the wood handle would have been enough.
I’ve experimented over the years with soaking axe and Froe handles in Linseed Oil with the thought that reintroducing moisture would cause the wood to swell as it filled with oil. After several attempts of this, I’ve found that only the porous rings will really soak it up, while the rest do not. The science of this makes sense in that dead wood cells shrink as they lose moisture and no longer have the capacity to hold any moisture. Sadly, handle replacement is the best course of action for loose handles when you can’t wedge them or replace existing wedges.
If you follow his Instagram, he’ll let you know when he drops batches of tools into his web shop. Here’s a link: instagram.com/jasonlonontoolmaker?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
