I've been thinking about the process of making silicone skins for animatronics, and it’s tricky to figure out the thickness based on a number of factors. You’ve got to consider the stress points during movement, the placement of attachment points where it’s glued to the plate, and the plate’s profile/shape as it moves through its range in XYZ space. So, there are three things: (1) the thickness of the silicone, which needs to adapt based on movement and stress, (2) the placement of the attachment points to ensure the silicone stays properly connected, and (3) the shape of the plate itself, which needs to contour naturally with the min/max positions. The plate’s start and end positions control how the silicone stretches and compresses. I believe the underlying plate's profile, in terms of its shape as it moves through its min/max positions, is super important during the attachment process. It’s almost like mimicking muscle anatomy-the plate needs to handle the natural movements while keeping everything flexible but durable. Figuring out the ideal thickness, attachment points, and plate profile is a big challenge. It’s a complex job, requiring a lot of math and understanding of anatomy to get it right. Good luck to anyone trying to determine those minimum and maximum thickness points for the plate design underneath. Good luck I have Subscribed
Hi think you would pull in more viewers if instead of numbering the video putting a short summary of what you are doing as the title as people will see it as less of an investment. Awesome video! have a good one!
There is an app that can turn a series of photos and video from a smart phone into a 3D model. Type in 3D scanner app in your search. Some are pay, some are free. You can try a trial to see if it would work for your purposes. Essentially you put the object on a table (even a turntable) and then take a series of photos and or video, then upload the gallery to the app and it converts it all into a 3D model. Other programs use the camera lidar to map the object.
For resin prints you want to use a tin cure silicone rubber like Mold Max Stroke, not platinum cure. No sealant needed, just a release agent like Mann Ease Release.
I've posted it a few times in your comments. Try out Siraya Tech Defiant silicone mold kits... they're made specifically to work with 3D printed resins, by a resin manufacturer that makes great resins. 👍
Speaking from experience, marking the magnets is a great idea, and testing them. Trust me when I say epoxying a magnet and finding it flipped somehow SUCKS. I've had that happen to me 3 times. I would recommend building registration marks and pins into the molds to make sure things line up. The same for some components if possible. Looking good though!
I commented about 3D printing skin in TPU. I've done it but it is not nearly as flexible as that. Far from it. If I'd used a softer TPU it might have been a little better but the quality and flexibility were poor.
Hey, another great video, thank you. I was wondering how you avoid the inhibition of platinum silicone with a mold printed using a resin printer. I have tried several methods, including Smooth-On's Inhibit X, but each time there is still a sticky micro layer left...
The Bamboo is an FDM printer FYI. You can use meshmixer to break prints up to make it easier to print larger things or to make it simpler by introducing flat surfaces to reduce support materials. You can engineer pegs to get the seams locked together and then use putty, a 3D pen, or clay or whatever to fill them in and sand them smooth. You can also use it to split the print and then take parts back into your modeling software to retopo it as you see fit. FDM printers can also print TPU which you can use for ligament joints, etc. I am curious as to what your skin would look like printed in clear TPU. I haven't tried TPU in my 3D pen. The fun thing about your canvas is that people can play with it and add their own spin. Cyborg? Werewolf? Cat? Alien? baby? demon? translucent with leds? etc. Cube key-yup, I learned that trick! :) Crohns: that sucks! (speaking from personal experience) I'm glad you are doing better. I would suggest an add on section to your patreon eventually. Things that can be made in additional molds and added like horns, spikes, ridges, fins, etc that can be glued onto the skin as additional prosthetics...
Hey Gary just checking again if there is any way the next jaw and neck ( chest ) build up tutorial ., with the Patreon .stl would come out soon ., i did have the whole list and 3d print of the first step .. would be great to have a jaw and neck chest tuto :).
Hi Gary again ., was wondering if you still think about publishing the neck ( chest joint etc , , and jaw video so i can start building my animatronic ;) just like this one for the eye plate ., ., again thx so much for all that work and video .
I’ve always had a passion and obsession with animatronics,since the movies like star wars and later in the 80s movies with Special makeup fx .In 2007 I released a video instructional DVD video My Animatronic Project , which is free on my other RU-vid channel. This animatronic is a old school process where you sculpt with clay a creature and mold it and make another mold to produce skin and core and molding the core to produce a skull ..And hoping to have room inside the skull for all of the servos and mechanics. Well ,I started testing and researching cad digital design just learning, with researching the first 3d printing that became my obsession of the reverse engineering the process from old school process,working outside in to inside out . You must have knowledge on RC ,like airplanes ,cars ,and drones. There need to know knowledge in this art form ,designing, mechanical design, understanding RC servos torques and sizes , electronics, some programming, servo controllers. Sculpting ,mold making , casting but knowing these materials . Special makeup fx , latex/ silicone mask making . There is research ,planning . Thickest of skin is key you don’t need eyelids thick because your servos needs torque to move the animatronic lids and the silicone skin. There servos the There are thousands some cheap and expensive. And there is expensive servos and are crap servos . There is a animatronic process and there old school way and a new way that I’ve been researching for years now .
I too am obsessed with animatronics. I’ve always loved them, and now I am fortunate enough to work in the design industry. The digital sculpting etc isn’t too much the problem for me, it’s the servos and engineering stuff I gotta learn. I just ordered my first servos off Amazon the other day, and my buddy said I could use his arduino, so definitely gonna get started. Ultimately the best way to learn is hands on so I am very excited to roll up my sleeves and get my hands dirty!
@@differentbydesignpodcast That's Cool! most servo controller are arduino based . And take your servo and get the Servo Schematic design ,just search Servo Schematic and your servo model number and design a servo socket .I'm excited for you . Get you a rc radio will help setup servo center and just a pre test setup before the servo controller ru-vid.com/show-UCPeV9POxxuaYvE5v12P2-Ogcommunity?lb=UgkxAx7VpI5Ra3LXffWcnEFXwcOaCSyjCQRT instagram.com/p/CtFc7lVulhO/?img_index=1
Thanks! Like I said this is my first time wading into these waters. I’ve been watching a bunch of videos but I’ve never worked with servos before so I’m sure there is going to be a learning curve
Glad you are feeling better and that you are making progress. Question: I am trying out the servo reversers with my Johnny 5 build but I've run into an odd issue. They only work when the line is powered up. In other words, I have to plug them in to a live wire to get them to run. They will come on, the light is lit when I power up, but unless I unplug them and then plug them back in they won't work. The moment I shut the power supply off and then turn it back on they are lit up but refuse to function again. I think you mentioned this issue in your video but I don't remember which one. (brain fart) Any idea why this is happening and do you have a fix? I can't keep unplugging and plugging wires back inside the J5 head each time I power down and power back up...
Nice video I'd suggest exploring the Neptune 4 Max. I was considering it but held off due to budget constraints. You can also use Meshmixer to split the mold and core/buck for printing and use keys to lock the pieces together. You can finish the seams so you won't have issues or deal with them later. I used Meshmixer to cut up the Utah raptor bust I did. Hope you feel better soon!
Thank you Chris, I have a Neptune 4 it prints okay , all of the animatronic parts was printed in the printer. Little disappointed with supports having to drill out screw holes. The prints are good but trying dial in this printer’s profile. That’s part of printing.
@@garywillett4146 Ah. Yep, getting the profile right is a pain. I've been drilling out holes for my R2 and my Johnny 5 animatronic too. I noticed something on Adam Savage's channel recently where the modeler printed a block with holes for screws to test what the printer does versus the holes in 3D in order to dial it in. So, you may want to look into that.
Im sorry to hear about your mum and about your medication side effects. Love your channel, 99% of what you teach goes over my head but your knowledge is seriously impressive, wish you all the best
Nicely done, always fascinating to see someone else's process when working in similar fields - we use fusion instead of sketchup though for the design side of it. Sorry to hear about your mother, sounds rough.
sorry to hear about your mother Gary. That wolf head looks very cool, i'm excited to see it further along in the process :) You were talking about doing a silicone matrix mold for the head earlier in the video; I wonder if you have tried using a material called Compat 45? It's a polyurethane rubber that is designed to release silicone rubber without causing cure inhibition in silicone. It makes it possible to pour silicone directly against the urethane rubber mold with no release agent at all, which is great for detail. I think this is not suitable for things like masks as the urethane rubber has some toxic properties that can pass into the silicone; it may be alright with something like an animatronic skin though? I've only used it once myself, but it seemed very useful. In it's working state is flows very well with no bubbles. I think I read about it's use in doing medical molds for practice surgery, or practice parts for tattoo artists. edit: was just looking at it's compatibility and it seems like it won't work with eco-flex 10. I think ecoflex-30 would work though. There's definitely something different in ecoflex-10, it seems to stick to PLA plastic, whereas none of the other eco-flex rubbers do.
when the ai decides to manifest itself in a physical body, before its hostile takeover, it's definitely going to reference your designs when 3d printing itself. it's a high compliment.
