You are correct but none of the professionals would to y the engine bc the labor hours involved far exceeded the value of the engine . I’ve done it twice using the correct torque specifications had no issues but you are right.
***FYI*** preferred gasket removal tool/s, HARBOR FREIGHT TRIM TOOL KIT, not a aa METAL FLATHEAD screwdriver (@ 05:10 , which tends to severely scar the head or H20 jacket, etc. DUDE, FO REAL .)
Thanks for the vid!!! I just did both thermostats... and my poppit (PRV) valve. My motor, 2001 250hp ox66 SX250TURZ, also has a "thermosensor". Only ONE, on the STARBOARD side, directly next to the thermostat, I have a thermosensor sticking straight up w/ an electrical connection. Online, yamaha OEM parts lists this as a "thermosensor"... but my manual calls this an "engine cooling water temperature sensor". First off, do you do maintenance on these, cleaning or replacing? And second, what's the purpose? If the thermostats are both measuring the temperature of the water, then what is the thermosensor doing? Any insight is appreciated... thanks.
Engine Must Maintain a Running Tempurature to Be Efficient. Example: My Engine Runs Thermostat of 120° F. If You Lived in Cold Country and Water Was 30°F Engine Would NEVER Get to 120°F. Thermostat Stays SHUT until Engine Reaches Running Temp.
Just remember, flush the engine for at least 15 minutes with salt away. The thermostats must open to flush best you can. I favour a drum to run the motor, either way is OK.
Hola , por favor me puede poner por aquí que torke le diste en la primera vuelta y en la segunda para la tapa de arriba y la del cilindro ? Muchas gracias 🙏
Just did this with my 1998 Yamaha 150 two stroke. Only broke 5 bolts taking off the water jacket. No real biggie. Just put them on a drill press with cobalt bits and retapped to 5/16 standard. Order the poppet valve yesterday, its on the way. Hopefully this fixes my overheating problem as I've already done the usual of replacing the impeller, thermostats etc.
Impressive with the retapping . I’m sure this will work since you already did the thermostats and impeller. It’s the only other thing. If water is freely circulating engine should cool. Enjoy your time on the water
@@arnoldtrevilla Only thing is, when I was drilling for the retap, I went too deep and accidentally drilled one of the holes into the cylinder head cavity, LoL! I took some JB Weld Steel Stick and plugged the hole with it. Dunno if its going to hold, but, you know what they say...If at first you don't succeed, so much for skydiving. I put the head back on and cranked the engine after letting it sit for 24 hours. Didn't sound any different. I'm going to take the head back off today just to check repair.
Do you have a picture of the impeller? I’m curious to see what it looked like. I got an overheating alarm the other day on the same motor. I’m thinking about your other video and cleaning out the water jacket. Pretty sure that super dirty. I’m getting a weak stream coming out so it’s either the impeller for the salt buildup in the engine.
I just went out yesterday and my HPDI 250 over heated when I opened it up but not while at low idle. I thought I saw a bit of smoke coming out the exhaust but thinking back on it, I'm wondering if it was steam. I'm hoping it's the thermostat or the gasket. The entire top end was rebuilt 5 years ago but do to covid it sat for 2 to 3 years. Anyway I am hoping its a simple fix. I appreciate your video, thanks.
Hello. I have same problem with my ox66. I took al 14 bolt out. But now i cant take head out. Its not coming loose. Any idea how should i take head out.
If you took the bolts out the only thing holding the heads in is the buildup so use a flat head screw driver to pry the heads loose but be careful and go to one corner then another corner then the side and gingerly work it loose . Sorry for late reply just saw this .
Poppet valve definitely was the overheating issue on my 99 200hp OX66. Was stuck in the open position and would overheat when idling. There was a design issue and Yamaha changed the design to prevent the sticking open.
I agree didn’t show weather he firstly put it into gear how he changed the impeller what direction he spun the housing how he lined up putting the lower unit back up what torque settings to use
Your video fucken sucks why do you idiots play fucken music when your working and showing people whats wrong fucken stupid thinks for the worst song on earth also
rydlyme marine descaler would have saved you a lot of time and you got lucky you didn't brake some head bolts Yamaha suggest dipping the bolts in two cycle oil before reinstalling
Hey thanks maybe the descaler would have helped this time but last time it was hard getting the caked in salt with a screw driver so sometimes you actually need to do the job. I did reinstall the bolts with Yamalube grease
Just an FYI ( my $.02) The "heads" that you referred to while explaining to your son, are the CYLINDERS. You had already removed the HEAD. This operation is VERY critical and LOTS can go wrong, ESPECIALLY broken bolts. It doesn't matter, really, what you say to US when doing an instructional vid but it DOES matter when instructing your child or a friend who looks to you for knowledge or advice. Those engines are now PUSHING $20,000 AND UP NEW, so ANYTHING we can do to avoid going to the stealership is good for us but being meticulous about how we do it is the key. I don't fault anyone for trying to repair their own stuff and when/if they have to bring it to me to fix a flub, I tell or show them how to do it correctly. where some mechanics seem to revel in teaching them a lesson for DARING to try to fix their own stuff. Some of the other details are listed in the comments below so please don't take it personally. Some of us learn by doing and then others are lucky enough to learn from doers, so it's good that you take the time to show people what to expect. ....
I would never remove a gasket with a screw driver :0. I use my snappy upholstery / trim remover which is plastic. If that soft aluminum head/block gets scored by that hardened tool steel, that’s a trip to a machine shop
so I just rebuilt my 2.6L OX66 , same block as yours and it runs hot and will overheat over 4000 rpm , I have 80 hours on it so Its mechanicaly correct , I did paint the water jackets on the heads , im wondering if I put too many layer of paint on it . new water pump , thermostats and the updated pressure relief valve
Ok so u removed the water jackets and painted them . Ok so they are clean so that’s not where ur problem is . did u do the area behind the power pack that has a bunch of water passages as well I didn’t do. Mine but it can be a problem Here is the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eTm3B-j34I0.html
@@arnoldtrevilla yes , the powerhead was removed disassembled and pressure wash , then the machine shop washed it again before and after they bored it out , I guess I could have put a gasket on backwards or possibly got the wrong gasket from the rebuild kit
I went to a Yamaha parts dealer in Key Largo . U can order them from any Place that sells Yamaha parts. Give them your engines serial number or model number
2 stroke motors have water passages around the combustion chamber, cylinder head, exhaust covers and lower crankcase areas which sould be cleaned as well to factory delivered conditions. I know huge work removing the entire crankcase to access such parts. Once cleaned will need to install new gaskets on those mentioned parts right after all the mating surfaces has been cleaned to an immaculate state. Rydlyme, Salt Away only works well removing salt layers, but not heavy solidified stone rock crusts clogging the water passages in which these products won't recirculate through to do their homework right.
