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Hi, I have a boat with white oak and mahogany rub rails. I am taking off the old varnish via heat gun and scraper. I have varnished many times in the past with Pettit Captains Varnish and though beautiful, the flaking in the future drives me nuts. I have used a product called Semco on teak which is a nice sealer but am wondering what else is out there. I know I definitely want to go the sealer route and just re-coat 1-3x a year to keep the wood looking good. The boat is on saltwater. Can you recommend a sealer for marine use? Also the mahogany and white oak have gone grey, can I use oxalic acid to restore to original color without damaging the surrounding paint? Thanks!
So you gotta repeat every question after he gives you every question...you worry me my friend...a know it all...been turning rings for almost 15 years now and I certainly do not agree with everything you're saying
Kinda be nice, if he could have showed everything he was doing with his pencil, instead of us guessing. Plenty of time talking about router bits, like that's hard to figure out. Guess I'm just a little disappointed. Watched it, didn't really learn anything
With earlier D4s , you can’t do one pass blind dovetails. The newer models have a rod installed through the fingers that limits the router travel. There is a factory upgrade available.
The Wall Street II is the best kit to start with. Yes, it is more expensive, but being single tube and using a Parker refill puts it leagues ahead of the Slimline.
I have some very nicely weathered barn wood that looks great on both sides. This will help me make use of both and not 'lose' one in the finished application.
Bosch has an 8mm collet assembly available for the 1617 series routers. It grips the Leigh 8mm shank bits firmly and should be used instead of the reducer mentioned in this video.
11:18 I noticed when you were drilling, from the point that you were holding the knife and scales to the point that the drill passed through everything it appeared that everything shifted about an eighth of an inch downward; did this cause problems with the holes being wallowed out or misalignment later? if you don’t have a drill press, can you put this into a vice and attempt to drill as possible perhaps using a self centering bit to pre-drill and then a larger bit to follow?
WoodCraft of Spokane, I,ve watched a few videos on Kreg Foreman, as far as i know You are the first to mention the Block for Screw sizes.Very Helpful.Thanks!
Thanks for that. I have been doing the styles first and rails second. The sacrifice board i made was cut from a board running with the grain of the wood on the cope cut. This presents numerous problems if the sacrifice board is above or below the rail when it is fitted to the rail. I am definitely changing to your method of rail first and style second. I have been looking for a better method. This is definitely an improvement. The only good thing I can say about ( style/ cope) the previous method is that there is never any chip out. But this comes at more labor and increased chance of not having proper alignment of style and rail.
Thank you for this excellent video. Certainly, a great help for me. Of course, you're using probably the best equipment out there. Would be a lot more difficult with a cheaper saw.
Try using rubber gloves and do a dry fit before gluing the scales to the knife , just saying and get a BFH instead of beating it in with pliers, your welcome
If you re looking for what it looks like for a first time user this video is for you. This demo would not be some thing I would show a potential customer .
Thx for the great vid very enlightening. I am wanting to 100 percent waterproof a large table top that will see food contact. Can you suggest the products I should use? Thank you 👍
Have been working extensively with purpleheart for several years, and getting it evenly right violet has definitely been a constant journey of reinvention and discovery. Obviously flame on your already cut and shaped pieces is a good way to get the surface nice and purple, plus, if you overburn, you can relighten with sanding. Personally I started with a much larger handheld propane torch, and found it works alot faster and across a wider work area than the little butane torch, so it may just come down to how big your piece is (though, even for pen blanks I definitely prefer the big one). When you need your boards nice and purple throughout, before you start working them, this is not really effective, and the best recommendations I've seen are to bake it in an oven (my own research has led me to 360-degrees for 60 minutes for any boards 3/4 to 5/4 inch thick). Today though, in considering that it's that sap/oil that does the "purpling" when it is heated and redistributed, I had a crazy idea while trying to think of a way to more rapidly heat the board throughout than the oven, so that the sap has less time to pool and leech out... ...so I threw some purpleheart in the microwave, just for about a minute, and hot damn. It had the same through-and-through purple as the oven, but the sap stayed far more distributed and less splotchy/veiny. If repeat testing gives me consistency, this will likely become part of my standard prep for working with purpleheart. Beyond just the best and most consistent coloring I've gotten from purpleheart, having tried everything from torches to ovens to sunlight to even a laser, it's impossibly fast, doing in about a minute what takes hours in the oven and days with sunlight, and better still, using a microwave seems downright sacrilegious in old-school carpentry. I'm never going back.
Man, most I can do is a $1,200 shark sd, I'm not cutting out anything mainly routing out letters for a project or making a couple cribbage boards, no cutting just mainly engraving..any suggestions?
Don't bring your blade guard all the way down to the work piece when you set up your cut for the drift adjustment, because when you bring your fence in, the blade guard has to remain above the height of the fence which will result in a different drift angle and you will have to readjust to compensate for the difference. You want to keep all things constant when setting things up. Also when you check for whether or not the fence is square to the table, bring the fence in to where it will be locked during the cut instead of on the edge of the table. In a perfect world you should have a perfectly flat table and a perfectly straight fence rail but in the real world you might not be using the best equipment with precisely machined parts so set things up under the same conditions that you will be cutting with. Even the material itself in some cases.
