do you have an AFR gauge? I notice on moderate throttle, for example passing someone in local traffic (not wide open throttle) I see it go rich for a second (AFR 8).
does the 2007 honda hornet cb600 4-mouth carburetor sold in Brazil, does it work on the gm 153 2.5 engine, from the 4-cylinder Chevrolet Opala, which is basically half of an old gm small block v8 engine?
@@bozidarbilusic at DanST website they have 30mm, 50mm, or 90mm long trumpets. What do you think that fits? Can you tell me how much space until the firewall after the carburettors? Thanks!
What did you do with the throttle linkage, did you use the standard cable? Also what changes did you make to jet sizes. I'm very interested in this as our d15b4 in Australia are auto choke and it's hard to find a replacement choke to fix poor idle issues and running rich. If you have a forum write up about it I would be very interested.
Question for you. What distributor is that?? I run a carbureted converted d15. Modified the DPFI manifold to take a Weber and then I hacked up and an 80s Honda distributor and made an adapter plate. That’s looks like a nice bolt on.
@@bozidarbilusic Ha. Thank you so much. I thought my conversion was so genius back when I did it but I was too ignorant to check the EU market. I think I might try one out for another build that my friend and I are putting together.
Brate Bozidare pa ja tebe trazim :). Molim te za pomosh. Imam D14a1 Dual carb. Problem, obrtaj mi ne stoi na hladni motor, pada, ako ga shtimam ondak na vruci motor idi do 1200. Zapushio sam sve vakum rupe, dobar mi je bubanj za kochenje, novi dightung na usisnu, nashtimao ventile, nashtelovo i paljenje. Desni vakum port je advance, to jest retard, a ljevi plus 4 stupnjeva za hladno paljenje. Zajebavam se veche godinu dana, jel moguche da me jebe kaish za jedan zub??? Ili pak mozda ono shto nemogu da vidim, karike, dihtun na glavi ili gumice ventila!?. Znachi opet chu da ponovim, valjda nemam dovoljno vakum na hladnok motora? Ili mozda neshto drugo.... Hvala unapred, pozdrav is Skoplja.
Ja bi prvo probao start sprejom po prirubnicama karburatora, one uglavnom stvaraju ovakav problem. A usput i sva druga vakum crijeva, ako imaš ona s brojevima, originalna, lako je moguće da puštaju. Mogu biti i membranice od power ventila na dnu karburatora, vidi ima li goriva u crijevima koja idu do njih (#14 ako se dobro sjećam). Probaj skinit filter zraka pa vidi kako radi bez njega
@@bozidarbilusic Probo sve od toga, gume na usisnu granu sam proverio, i za svaki slcuhaj prelepio da ne bi pustali, a nisu. Creva sam promenio. Da crevo je 14# al nemam benzina u crevo, a i super rade power ventili. Chak shto vishe iskljuchio sam sve shto ima membrana za svaki sluchaj...nishta. I Paljenje sam rastavio, i opet sklopio, vakum adnvace nije bio dobar, al sam ga zalepio membranu. Sad je dobar. Kad probam bes advanca, isto Idle raste mnogo. Hmmm. Stvarno nisam pametan. ...
@@bozidarbilusic Izvini opet ja, i moj losh srpsko-hrvatski. ... Improvizirao sam vakum metar jer nemam, uradio sa sphricem i federom. Vakum je ist, i na hladni i na topli motor. Tek sada sam zbunjen.
Can such set up be made on a d15b2 motor with 2 injections carb on or a weber my have electronic ignition but is a carb with 2 injectors on it they call it for economic purpose is a 1989 crx duel point system I was thinking a mini me set up 10.1 compression but I love carbs with a nice cam for sound and bit of power
Hi man, thanks for the input. Seen your video, it’s looking nice. I used original pilot jets (42) and 150main jets. At first I used original main jets as well;132-135-135-132, and it was also ok, just a bit lean at wot
that sounds awesome, EC9 owner here too. all i've done is stick on some 50mm webers which were hard as nails to find. what are the main power gains out of this?
There are some power gains, but it’s highly subjective. I think there’s better potential in those webers if you want power. But yes, you can’t beat the sound 😀
hey if it's not too much trouble is any there chance you could put together a rough parts list? keen to do this on my d15b4 with one of the danst manifolds :))
Hey! It seems like there’s quite a few people interested in doing this so I’ll try to put together a video on how to build soon. Basically it’s manifold and carbs, you don’t need anything else, but it is nice to have a set of jets to tune it properly, some sort of vacuum equalizer and an afr meter
@@bozidarbilusic a how to video would be awesome!! i ended up doing some more research on the parts that ill need and i think ive got it down pat, ive got some zx6r carbs on the way too :)) something roughly step by step would be really helpful as there isnt really anything like it on the internet.. cheeeers
@@bozidarbilusic you can't go wrong with black. Makes it look like oem new! I think one day I'd like to pull apart my suspension and repaint everything. Looks so nice when its repainted. 😁
@@bozidarbilusic Thank you so much! I really want to pick your brain on this topic if you would let me? So if I use the distributor that came with the engine I have (nzdm d16a7) the vac advance dizzy will have the correct timing already? Even if I'm using a homebuilt manifold? I'll be honest I don't know much about this stuff, and the idea of a vauum line changing the timing confuses me, as I dont know what vacuum cases what timing. My current engine is a jdm d13b which has the dreaded vacuum box of death and a computer controlled pgm-carb, so I want to eliminate the ecu all together. Thanks again and sorry for the wall of text!
@@3dkiwi920 Happy to share what I learned, maybe I should make another, more detailed video... If your ignition timing is ok now, it will most likely remain so after this mod.Once you install this setup, you can set the ignition timing using a timing light by moving your distributor (clockwise to retard). Your D13b2 engine (in original) comes with a vacuum valve that constantly changes the ignition timing by a few degrees depending on a vacuum (duuh) in the intake manifold (hoses number 2 & 5 in the dreaded box). I'm not familiar with the d16a7 engine nor with it's distributor, it might not have that vacuum valve at all. In that case, you can eliminate all the vacuum hoses and have a clean manifold, but it will affect your engine's efficiency a bit, so if it's a daily driven car I would not advise it
@@bozidarbilusic OK cool! Yeah the d16a7 is pretty much the same as any other D series but about 9.5:1 and 115 hp, NZ only, it's injected. I can't believe you actually know something about the shitty vacuum box on the d13! ( its a jdm d13b btw, no data on it; not a d13b1 or d13b2) I want to build a daily driver, not looking for power at all, I just know that I dont want an ecu or any of that vacuum/computer carb crap because if it ever breaks I'm screwed; I can't even find info on it in Japanese ( the pgm-carb) I would rebuild the d13, but its very skinny on the bottom end. The car is a JDM E-EF1 23l. I understand timing in principle, how to set and rotate the dizzy to adjust it, but I assumed the vac advance on a carbureted engine would be very important at higher RPM as there is no way to 'set' it like you would electronic ignition; it's on a fixed curve which is unknown to me. Anyway thank you so much for your help, I've been thinking about this for years and it's so hard to find info on; I appreciate ya!
@@3dkiwi920 D13b is a great engine, it's a squared bore/stroke. Just to point your attention, if you can find dual carbs from a 1990 civic, that would be a huge difference in throttle response and power. It was sold in eurepe (ec9, d14a1) and in NZ i believe, in some d15... check it out before you decide
Just converted my d16a6 to run r1 carbs, you using ef spark plug wires? My standard ones are really tight using the 2 wire dizzy (cos it’s much taller than injection one)
The ones in video are AliExpress... crap Now I use original ones, but I didn’t change the dizzy so its all fine. How is your setup working? Jet sizes? Pictures? ;)
@@bozidarbilusic mines been running on three cylinders since it’s been done which I think is as a result of cylinder 1 (the longest wire) being waaaaaaaay too tight and stretched at the moment I’ve only changed the main jet to 180, once I have it running on 4 I’ll check timing then use my Aem afr to perfect the jet sizes, I’m assuming I’ll need to go down but loads more to do on the car yet, needs exhaust and throttle cable bracket making
You’ll probably want to use the one that makes more advance. If I remember correctly it’s the one closer to the distributor itself, but try it yourself
@@bozidarbilusic hi, i have the same carburetors with an intake manifold for a civic, but my carbs are 38.5mm inner diameter i think they are cbr900... Did you install other jets or are they stock?
@@mb_111_rx2 probably yes. It’s hard to guess, there’s many factors… displacement of the engine is almost twice the size, but the rpm is not. It’s also important what type of air filter you use. It’s hard to tune them without any
hi I would like to redo this assembly for some time, I would like to know how to change the fuel pump? I intend to take an intake pipe int as well as a carburettor ramp like you, what should I buy in addition?
I used the original fuel pump, but it would be best to use an inline electric fuel pump from motorcycle. If you go for that option then just eliminate the existing one and put the new one as close to tank as you can. If there is anything I can help you with just let me know:)
@@bozidarbilusic okay I see! and removing the original pump you have to buy a blanking plate? or do I simply unplug it ?, there is some adaptation to do for the assembly or is it relatively simple? I intend to take this kit danstengineering.co.uk/Bike-Carb-fitting-kits/Bike-Carburettor-Conversion-Packages-Honda/Honda-D14D16-37mm-Bike-Carburettor-Starter-Kit
@@FrBalade13610 You can remove the old pump and make some blanking plate. Its just 2 screws, anyone can make it. That danst kit is a great idea. I built it myself, but If I had to do it again, I would buy it from there. Also, you have to mention to them which vacuum ports are needed for your project; brake booster, dizzy advance...
@@FrBalade13610 I found this carburetors for 100€, vacuum equalizer for 10€ on AliExpress, and built the rest myself. It took some time, and my intake manifold is not as good as the one you get in this kit
