Good to see the engine rebuild. Are you at all worried about the fuel tank being very close to the exhaust? Could it be a melting plastic situation?

The metal top brace that has a break in it. You could try some solder to hold the crack together or even try some type of 2 part Epoxy like Araldite.

Been thinking of doing gt12 nationals and have similar thoughts

Concise and well thought out guide.

The music that keeps coming in is annoying

You don't get much more early eighties than the Super champ!! The SRB chassis is one of the few Tamiya chassis that i am yet to build.....mainly because i am patiently waiting for them to re re the Ford Ranger! Often thought about making one up from a sand scorcher re re kit and a blackfoot body.....but ideally i want the Ranger in its full box art glory,blister packs included! I love their blister packs from back in the day,the presentation was so much better than the modern thrown into the box approach . Although saying that,it does make them hard to build as it hurts cutting into all that lovely packaging (hence why my egress and avante black special havent been built yet!) Im loving all the hop ups you have got for this one dude,you didn't hold back did you ?😅 Especially liking the carbon chassis and aluminum wheels. Thats guna look so cool once built......it will be hard to drive it!! I was only saying to someone the other day about how expensive bearings used to be,we are very lucky now how cheap they are these days.....electronics and radio gear to for that matter! I love the rear shock on this model,with the oil bottle fitted it looks so quirky ! Looking forward to seeing the build. And yes,the UK totally sucks these days.....not just the weather ,the whole country is broken!😩 👍 👍 👍

Hey, do u still have this game on ur PC

What a great AI

Interesting little chat there fella! Im fast approaching the big 50 myself and can certainly relate to much of what you say. I was heavily into rc from 1985 to 1992 when i fell out of love with the hobby and discovered the early 90s rave scene,music,partying and girls!! Didnt even think about rc for nearly 30 years until covid struck in 2020! During lock down i decided to restore my original midnight pumpkin that i got in 1987.....and consequently got on RU-vid and ebay and was shocked to see rc was still actually going strong,and all the vintage cars of my youth were getting re released!! Found so many great channels (rc kicks,Tamiya legends ,mark bryan rc,pete wylie rc etc) The fire had been re ignited! My original plan was to shelf my restored pumpkin.....but very soon started learning about the new generation of radios ,esc's,lipos,brushless motors etc. Before i knew it i had pumpkin out up our local park and had an absolute blast driving it! Yes,as an adult you do tend to get a few strange looks.....but at 48 years old you no longer care what people think,if they want to judge you for being young at heart then thats their problem not mine!😂 The funny thing is,people of my own age or older all tended to be interested ,and would come over and chat/reminisce !! The thing that surprised me was the kids of today showed absolutely no interest what so ever in general . Fast forward 4 years and i now have 40+ cars,most vintage re releases,or vintage ones that I have restored fully to their former glory! I started bashing /racing them with mates,and we started a figure of eight circuit night up tescos car park where we time trial against eachother regularly .....once again,not caring what people think about these grown men and women playing with toy cars at 10 o clock at night in supermarket carparks!😂 Somehow,before i knew it we started a RU-vid channel to- Green hawks rc .....where we have forged so many new friendships with the awesome rc community ! Check us out mate,you may enjoy some of our stuff.....especially if you like the retro side of things. Great video fella,and keep driving those cars.....it keeps us young!😂 👍 👍 👍

I have this vehicle and it's one of my favorites.

I liked the hop-ups you went for. The ball diff looked interesting. Which country did you end up buying the kit from?

RC 10s were always Race cars. they weren't for toy hobbyists. my first rc car was a Clodbuster... I Know the difference between a rc10 graphite and the fan rc wolds car. Most of th difference is the shocks, the longer front arms, and the stealth tranny. The FanRC is a race car.... if you can find the original rc 10 Team car set up for the tie rod lengths and set them at that you got aa great starting point. The manuals were always wishy washy. Ive been building these things for like 30 years lol

Its a knockoff of tjhe WORLDS edition, with a graphite chassis...

No Fan RC is coming out with the replica of the RC10 Worlds Car with a graphite chassis. Yes Im getting one

I remember buying a Mardave for one of my lads, it had the old mechanical speed controller, basically a large potentiometer! This was early 2000's. Then catching the bug myself in 2006 and buying a Tamiya M03. This was the start of RC racing for me. Joined a local club and I now regularly race a Tamiya M06 and when I can a GT12, usually with the LMP class. So have been racing, on and off for 18yrs, but now I go weekly. Still enjoy the whole experience. The only thing that worries me is the cost for youngsters to start up racing. Its not cheap and is one of the drawbacks of the hobby. The other worry is the lack of women who race. I think today we had two women and one girl racing, which honestly is quite unusual. Its usually just us blokes!

Hi: i have not built my kit yet, but I know the kit is mostly a “worlds” edition, with a graphite chassis. I suggest you download a copy of the worlds kit….the long bolts for your steering, look to be the front shock mount screws which attach to the shock tower….

How did u swap the throttle linkage/attach it to the carburetor

Tamiya makes a ball diff for them now.

They brought back the rough rider this year.

Nice run ! Just subbed

that flysky radio is one of the shiittest in modern rc history. So anthing else would be better !

Very usefull to see you truing your foam tyres. The tyres look like front tyres for an LMP and very similar to GT12 tyres. For the rear tyres, I beleive you need an adaptor to accomodate the different inner wheel for mounting on the Arbor. Just looked up the price of a Truer like yours and it is around £190, so quite an investment. I have been racing my GT12 without using a truer and have noticed that the car improves when the tyres have worn down, so the reason people use a truer! Its all new to me, appreciate you taking the time to explain how to get to grips with this rc art. Thanks for doing the video.

The correct answer is the BASH pro active shifter.

Great first pass!

Great you managed to get the speed run footage out. Your springs are the right colour, I run the same on my M06. I use 400 cst as damper oil, this is for carpet work. May be worth using 600 cst for the road (You may be doing this already). Your cap footage gives a very good feel for being out on the road. Its a neat idea.

Welcome to the speed run challenge. Class 2 is a fun one. If you put a 24t or bigger pinion and set it at 13mm from the motor face to the outside edge of the pinion. You can mesh the spur gear on the 24t section witch we call Ludicrous speed. This give a much taller ratio and gives that extra boost in speed. With a bit of rotary tool work the gear box can be modified to accommodate up to a 30t pinion. Good luck on your next runs and hope to see you on Score board Sunday. To let you know you can submit ad many runs as you want during the challenge. Make sure you email Fil with a link to the run and the deadline is September 30th I believe.

The Tamiya MF-01X chasis appears to have some similarities to the Tamiya Mini M06. The M06 has the rear mounted motor and the damper mounting positions also look similar. Interesting. Sorry to hear that you lost your speed run footage, but a 39mph run sounds good. Look forward to some upcoming run footage.

Great to see the Rlaario, not seen one of these before. I always charge my Lipo batteries in a bag. This was drumed into me by my racing club leader. We couldn't use lipo's if we didn't. It was a good lesson as it wasn't worth the risk of a lipo fire. Great camera work by the way. Keep it up. I was going to say how did the tyres do survival wise? I can see something is left! They did better than I expected.

Very nice build! Good luck in your runs!🤜🤛

Hi, i just watched your video on Wild One BHM i wounder if you could share what wheels and tires you use on it. I´m looking for exactly that for my Wild one.

Hab aus auf WinXP geliebt

The Blue colour on your LMP12 is nice, I use Tamiya PS-3 which is the Light Blue colour. I have used this on a few shells in the past. It always works out well.

I did see the apperance of your tyre truer in the video. I would be interested to see a seperate video on your tyre truer, how it works and how you skim and sand the tyres. This may sound basic stuff, but never trued tyres before, so i don't know. Expect others would be interested also. On my GT12, I have 4 sets of tyres, I change a set for each qualifier and final. I find this helps to even out tyre wear.

I am new back into rc and have never raced, or know anything about setup so this is probably an old idea. In setting up some new cars I was watching my motor temps with a thermal camera. The tire temps were clearly visible and I could see the difference between inside/mid/outside front/back and left/right. This was on buggies with foam inserts on a parking lot. I could see the high points in my bad tire glueing attempt and tires with soft or hard foams. Looking back at the pics i took i can tell if i was going clockwise or counter round my cone track. My setup is basically stock on subpar oversize tires so in a more controlled environment like yours i can see it being incredibly useful. You could even just snap a pic of it just after it stopped and review later. You could try asymmetrical setups for each track day with car or tire setup. But to see if you camber is working I can't see a better way to know. I wonder if knowing shock or diff temps would help any. The ability to see the difference between the subject and the surrounding car parts is a better way to find a consistent setup as track conditions change and what is working for you. The camera i am using is on a cheap android phone. The brand is doogee they have a few with one. The software is not the best for the camera but it works. The camera brand is infiray and they sell some cheapish usb units that plug into any phone. I have seen some that have a macro lens attachment that is made for electronics diagnostics so the zoom might be excessive and I can see good detail with mine. The resolution is very poor when you compare to the expensive stuff but up close I can see everything. If you got extra with it, you could use it to find any bind or bearings that need attention.

Interesting to see the corner weight scales. It helps to heighlight anomolies in the cars balance. At least you know that something is up even if its not immediately apparent what the cause is. Let us know how much superglue you end up using on the front brace. I guess you have to wait until the o-rings arrive otherwise you won't be able to fit them properley. You may be able to fit strategic weights to balance out the car.

Turbo Burns were five spoke .

The best rc race I've done was between 4 grasshopper. I get bored of high performance RC...go straight, turn, go straight...and too fast. It's exciting but not fun. You don't compete against other RC you just try to make to do best laps staying on the track with other cars. Vintage races are the way to go

There's a company called gartpot and zee has a battery.And then once i'm talking about a four thousand milliamps they will fit it and it is a 18tooth pinion.

Use anti wear grease that's from tamiya or marine grease.It'll lock up the diff better.

Now you understand it has character and personality.That's what's loved about it.

What's the k v on the brushless motor?

Are you going to get a hornet evo?

There must be a 50/50 70/30 throttle channel setting on your radio that offset the band. Look for that setting.

Good base, and I can't wait to compete.

Looks awesome!!

Yikes, not a good experience. May be time to exit the Fly-Sky to the dump and forget about the thing! I use a Futaba T4GRS stick controller, started on stick controllers and am still there.

On my GT12 i have the same problem with the front carbon fibre beam (U8372). As you point out, a heavy front end collision can cause the beam to become loose. This dramatically affects stearing! I have had to replace this beam due to ongoing damage (only a mere £16!) The suggested solution of glueing sounds interesting as I have not heard this myself before, but my schumacher circle is very limited. If you have a heavy front end collision and the steering goes, then I would retire the race round and fix for the next race round. Like the batteries as I run these. Powering out of corners may be down to motor torque, maybee looking at how much torque your motor has could be worth some investigation. Really liking your race follow up synopsis, keep them coming. Your incremental analysis and fix is the right approach.

Hola! Éste modelo ya tiene sus años, lo he visto correr en circuito y va realmente bien, gracias a su transmisión por correa y su centro de gravedad muy bajo. Sinembargo ésto también es un problema. Porque la correa tiende a rozar por su parte baja contra el asfalto, sobretodo al subirse por los pianos del circuito. Le tengo puesto el ojo encima a éste modelo, ya que su relación calidad precio es inigualable. Es un modelo de semi competición, y bastante resistente a los impactos, la fibra de carbono será más liviana, pero también es más frágil, ante un impacto puede romper, mientras que el material plástico es más flexible y resistente, y el aluminio tiende a doblarse. Semi competición lo dice todo. Me preocupa que por sus años esté descatalogado y empiecen a faltar repuestos. No sabía que el diferencial delantero fuese autoblocante. Sobretodo me interesa saber si hay repuestos suficientes y si los planetarios y satélites pueden ser reemplazados por otros de mayor calidad. En cuánto al roce de la correa contra el asfalto es cuestión de ingenio y fabricar por nuestra cuenta un protector que evite el mencionado roce. Como he dicho, estoy buscando un coche de 1/10 nitro pista, y transmisión por correa. Y realmente no hay nada en el mercado a no ser que escoja un modelo de competición. Quisiera saber de las opiniones de sus usuarios, ventajas e inconvenientes. Gracias!

lets go !! 👍

I have a GT12 which I built about 9 months ago. I have been racing this 'thing' regularly at my local rc club ever since. It has taken 9 months to get the car into a drivable state! It is only now that my lap times are coming down to be competitive. I have had, in particular, many issues with steering. I have not even got around to tyre truing yet! I think the key is getting the car to go where you want it to on the track without a great deal of wrestling of the controls. The driving becomes almost like an extension of your hands and the car goes where you ask it too rather than fighting against you. I have found, by trial and error, to only put additive on the front tyres 5 minutes before your race. This helps a lot with steering ability. I have also had damage to carbon fibre parts connected with the steering/suspension and this had been hidden and took a long time to find. If in doubt replace the carbon part. It seems like the last 9 months has been like torture, but have now come out the other side and I can start to enjoy the racing. I hope my experience dosnt put you off but I guess we all have to go through it.