What undercar light kit you using mate ?? How’d you go running the leds above the exhaust without getting weird reflections / heating issues ??? Cheers
Hey there. Thanks for posting the informative video. I have an unrelated question regarding wiring. I happened to kill the reverse lights and dash gear selector light. And no more reverse beeps. This happened when i removed one of the reverse light connectors. Fuses are okay. Any ideas how to get them back to function? Thanks
Just adding as a warning for anyone looking at this, If you're running a Walbro 460 or similar pump, the draw will be too great on the stock wiring. A larger guage direct feed from the battery is great, but you will also need to swap out the factory bulkhead to avoid issues. In this video you'll see that post-relay the 8 guage is just wired back into the same old factory 12v feed and bulkhead. This will burn out with a large draw pump
@@__june__198 agreed, to an extent. I've definitely been told this could happen and have seen a few things online and it's of course always better to be safe. In fact I have upgraded bulkhead wiring sitting on my shelf at home, ready to do exactly this. However, it's been running for well over a year now with track time and not a single issue so far. I also know numerous cars in my circle of friends running the same thing with no issues, some for close to 10 years. Not saying it won't go bad in future, but at this point the statistics seem ok.
Me - "how the fuck am I supposed to do this on my Stagea" *spends all day researching how to do job* Ravi conveniently the next day with the exact same parts - "here's how to do it with these specific parts"
Great video! My S2 Stagea was off the road for about 5 years. With fuel in it. The fuel pump don't work no more so, i'll do something similar to yours. Plenty of black gunk in it too, I call the black gunk tobacco.
Bwhahaha I've got an SR with 260 stix in it and I've spent days trying to get it to idle nice and not go up and down rpm .. I am really interested to see how well it cools the engine down I tend to heat soak my thing on the dyno it might be nice to set a 1200 rpm rotational idle over 95 degrees coolant temp i will have play later yeh great Video mate keep at it
Sounds great man could the same principle be used in the link g4x? Trying to set this up but there isnt much out there in terms of videos for the link g4x
I've been told by a couple of tuners that the principle is the same for Link in terms of creating an unsteady idle state by playing with timing and fueling, but I'm not sure about any of the Link terminology unfortunately!
can anybody help me get my evo 8 setup with a lumpy idle, i got the car tuned recently and its gone now, but i use to have a really nice lumpy and girthy idle, i can navigate Haltech NSP enough if someone can point me towards the right settings.
i keep hearing that driving the car without that breaker in the fuse box or when the orange dash awd light is on wears out the plates because the plates are set to be tighter in the r34's. but as i understand how it works, if this was so then the plates are wearing out on any straight stretch of road. what is the truth?
I think the reason why it’s not all the same size is because they’re a b**** to take out and most the time, one or two bolts get rounded in the process and end up needing to be replaced…
Just be careful with the VCT as there might not be enough oil pressure at idle. For example, the SR20 requires a minimum of 21.8psi/inHg for VCT Engagement. Any less and you might throw the rockers as the VCT will be rocking back and forth without enough oil pressure!
I think I'm going to configure the trigger on is only when the TC knob is not on zero, so I have a way to turn it off without having to add an additional switch. TC 0 = rotational idle off, TC off TC 1-11 = rotational idle on, TC gain settings
Putting on the oil pump, you should utilize the PRP centring tool. This way you know your crank is perfectly centred and the oil seal will do its job. Then press in the crank seal with some loctite on the outer edge of the seal. Hopefully it’s all lined up.
Did you not mount it to low? Does is not need to be a bit higher and not on the sump? Just saw a post on the skyline forum where people are talking about the head drain, and they said is wrong if you connect it on the sump.
It's far safer to drill the sump than the block for someone doing it at home. Sump is far easier to replace if something goes wrong! Also we installed it as high as possible in the sump, above the windage tray which is all that's required to allow for drainage as well as to relieve pressure from crank case gasses.
@@StreetSyndicate Alright mate! I am rebuilding also right now my RB25DET. I going to install also a head drain kit i think i am going to install it also on the sump. I also got an EXTENDED BAFFLED SUMP.
I haven't actually tested it in a scientific manner yet as I was really just setting it up for the sound - BUT I did notice I was idling closer to 82-85 degrees sitting in the various carparks I was in, rather than the usual 85-90 degrees which is where it usually sits. Like I said - not exactly a controlled, scientific experiment - but it was definitely interesting and warrants a deeper look in future for sure. Might do some A/B testing and make a video with the results in future 😁
@@StreetSyndicatethe effect will cause the engine to run slightly cooler and for it to cool off quicker when hot All the cylinders that aren’t firing in the rotation are just drawing in air and pushing it out, no combustion, no heat.
I'd absolutely like to upgrade but I was out of budget for the build. It wasn't meant to include an engine rebuild along the way 🤣 but these things happen. If and when I build the RB30 block that's sitting in my garage, I'll definitely opt for a good set of cams then! What's was really cool about this process was learning that a lot of the tricks I've used are similar to what tuners use to dial in the lump of a proper set of cams as well... I think 😁
I just got my Stagea, and it has a new fuel pump. I needed to learn how to do exactly this! 👏You explained and showed everything so well! Thank you so much!
@@StreetSyndicate I have one of each coming. Both DET neo, one is auto rwd, other is manual swapped AWD. I plan to keep the AWD Manual. Other I got to swap some parts then sell.
As little as possible!! I think it was about 9Nm or so from memory. It was effectively the minimum reading on my torque wrench and it scared the crap out of me because they break so easily.
I picked up a couple of things I need to check before I finish with mine. But I found this video searching for tips on removing the tensioner and spring stop studs. I'm guessing you didn't want any trouble and didn't try and remove them 😄
