We are Bill Sferrazza and Eric Weber, thank you for visiting our channel!
Using both Nikon and Canon cameras, and a wide variety of lenses and gear, we have spent the last several years sharing photographs and tips and sharing information on social media, and having a lot of fun along the way.
We want to share the photographic fun with you, so in these videos you can:
Learn how to use your camera as a creative instrument and take your photography to the next level.
Learn basic and advanced photo editing using Adobe Lightroom, and actually see how we edit our photos.
See how we shoot in the Disney Parks.
Go behind the scenes and find out how images are made, from conception to the final product.
Get reviews and how-to's on all of the camera gear we use.
Have fun as you follow us around on our photo adventures.
And best of all, get our personal take on all things Disney, from resorts to food and beyond.
I refuse to sell off all my F-mount glass. I wasn't going to go mirrorless unless the adaptor worked. You saved me a lot of money with this video. I'm sticking with my DSLR.
All your photos look fantastic! About the difference in distortion between the 8mm on a crop sensor and the 12mm on a full frame, why do you say the 8mm is more distorted? I have seen several images of people comparing those two lenses from the exact same spot on a tripod and both lenses create the exact same image and distortion. Is there something I'm missing? I'm actually looking to buy one of those lenses but your comment on the 8mm being more distorted has made me spiral to infinity researching everywhere if that was true xP
I don't mean to confuse you. I have used both and just felt the 8mm was more distorted but if you've seen comparisons that say they are the same it may be true. I never directly committed them. Either way I think you will be good. They are fun lenses to have in your bag. Thanks for watching!
@@BillEricPhotography I placed a lot of weight on your opinion due to your clear talent and experience. I think I'll go with the 8mm on my full frame regardless of the loss of resolution, if needed I could just upscale with AI. It might be true that the 8mm gives more distortion. I just watched a video of another photographer I respect that claimed the fisheye look was "more sutil" on the 12mm one. And seeing some Flickr photos of the 8mm on full frames it actually seems as if the effect was stronger on the 8mm than on the 12mm. There are not too many photos of the 12mm with super distorted images.
@TheGoodContent37 I've had that lens for a long time and it's never disappointed me. And unless you're really blowing it up huge I don't know that you need all of that resolution. Plus you'll save a few dollars.
Thank you. Very informative. Is the Mark II worth the upgrade (I have neither and am looking into getting one of them). The RF 100 - 300 is just too far out of budget for me to justify (I'm not a pro).
While the conclusions of this video are certainly valid for the given iso, in my experience you'll see a very different result at higher isos or underexposed shots where sensor noise becomes an issue. Given a perfectly exposed low ISO shot cropping versus a telly yields similar results on a very sharp lens. However, teleconverters show much much less noise than cropping if the shots are underexposed or use higher isos. To therefore say there's no different between cropping and teleconverters in my experience is not completely accurate. It's accurate only for lower ISO for properly exposed shots.
I have a Z9 and Z8 and use them to shoot in museums and museum houses that do not allow flash. I can confirm Bill and Eric's result. With my 24-70mm lens, even at 70mm I can get sharp shots nearly all the time at 1/10 second. I typically take two photos of each subject to make sure at least one is sharp, and usually both are. At 1/5 second it's hit or miss. If I have to go that slow, I review the shots before moving on. With 1/10 second I just move on without detailed review, as I'm confident one of the two photos is sharp. I use the lower shutter speeds to lower the ISO. I have photos so sharp and clear with these cameras that people might say, "I didn't know you could use a tripod in the house." Ultimately, I couldn't care less how many stops image stabilization is good for. I just know I can get sharp shots at 1/10 second, and in most low light situations that provides a significant ISO reduction for less noisy images.
On my Nikon D810, my auto-iso always let's in a stop more of light than the shot really needs making it often overexposed for my tastes. I set my compensation at -1 stop - now it's perfect!!!
I can also recommend both the Tamron 17-35mm f2.8-4 Di OSM or the Nikon 18-35mm f3.5-4.5. Both are relatively lightweight compared to other full-frame wide-angle zoom lenses. They can take a 77mm filter. The Tamron has superb weather sealing too. This makes them great for travel and landscape. Lenses like the 14-24 Nikkor and 15-30 Tamron do have a bit more width but they are heavy, don't take a standard filter, even with a lenshood they have front elements that are screaming to get damaged
@@tecnogadget2 i know right? I would think they would be happy that they hired a pro that knows what they are doing. If you want to really mess with them, just bring a disposable 35mm film camera to the wedding
That's true you definitely could use today's phones but if somebody actually wants to learn photography I still think using a camera with interchangeable lenses is the best bet. What's nice about this camera system is it's small and inexpensive and you can get results that you just can't get with a phone.
@@BillEricPhotography my point is that stopping down the aperture so much (or being limited by it), makes you loose all benefits for having a camera instead of a phone; I don't think you can learn photography with a mirorrless like this. It's too smart, too automated, not enough manual control. For that, a Nikon d200 would be the king. Or even better, a mechanical film camera. Cheers
Doesn't really matter when it's this wide. For a fish islands like this your aperture is really just and adjustment for light. But if you want to make sure everything is sharp you can set it to f9. You really don't need to though if you need more light in a dark situation. Everything will be in focus at all apertures.
Viltrox is doing a good job. It will wean away many iPhone or high end camera phone users into the photography fold. Nikon canon Tamron Sigma zeiss lenses are not their competitors. Very prudent business strategy. Good luck.
I've been on vacation with my family and I'm only been using the 75 mm 1.2 and the 24 mm 1.8. both Viltrox. II know we haven't put a video out in a while but I'm thinking about making one about my experience. Been really enjoying using them!
Thanx I’ll try this tomorrow. Footage looked sharp but too bright and washed out by natural light but I think that’s because I need a ND filter. The shaking was even more noticeable even though I had my camera in a handheld cage. Thanks for the tip
I'm sure there are some out there but I know one of the big differences that you can only use it on cameras that have electronic connections to the lens. The G1 lens was able to be used with the old screw type focus. And I'm sure there are improvements in the lens itself. If that's the case then it's probably well worth the price because the one that I had was fantastic!
We are looking to sell our Rockwood TT 2017 (also no leaf springs) and get a 5th wheel. With all the sub-par covid builds, we weren't considering a 2021. But it looks like you bought a good one. Did you get an NRVIA inspection before you closed on it? We bought a short bed 2021 Ram 3500 to tow with, not thinking about how 5th wheels can hit the cab in a tight turn on a short bed. The sidewinder hitch on the Flagstaff looks like it solves the problem. There's a lot more to think about going to a fifth wheel from a TT than we anticipated! I'm going to join a Rockwood 5th wheel group to get more owner input. Great video.
