Do It Yourself Tips and How to Fix, Repair, Hot-Rod, and Modify Your Air-Cooled Porsche. We focus on vintage aircooled Porsche restoration including fixing upholstery, painting, restoring vintage Porsches, all in a similar vein to Petrolicious, Home Built By Jeff, Bad Obsession Motorsport, Mighty Car Mods, and Many More!
are you using like a bulk head, rubber O ring or how are you securing your fuel lines when you go through the firewall opening or sheet metal of the car?
are you in SoCal? If so what is the possibility on offering in person advice or help/. I have a 1975 X race car with some very heavy fiberglass ide like to replace with metal. thanks!
This kit is so well engineered! But I have to echo that one comment about the oil filter being danger close to the header. I would go with a simple oil filter relocation kit with the stainless steel AN lines that should fix the issue and give you an opportunity to design a custom bracket using SCS to incorporate your logo!
Between the smacking of the tongue and the absolute hackery i only lasted 4 mins. You ahould try making a template before you cut up a nice panel and make it to small for your patch. I hope this isnt a customer car. Id be pulling my car outta there right after i watched this video..😂😂😂. Ive seen better welds from my 12 year old niece...just sayin. #hackcity
Very interesting build. Naturally aspirated EZ36 from the 3.6R with raptor headers ($330usd) plus 91+ octane tune is more reliable, less expensive and makes over 300hp. Stock ecus are robust if you want to cut cost there too. The sump lacks adequate baffling and is the main reason why EZ swapped track cars see rod bearing failures. Rod bearings are smaller, these blocks are the same size as the 4 cylinder EJs after all... Reliable and strong motor's if done right.
I'm not so sure I would pay the kind of money you're going to ask when you put a bolt in a piece of hose with a hose clamp. Something like an A/N cap or just weld it up and be done with it. A hose with a bolt is jankie carport kid stuff. I've been watching this and really thinking that this would be cool to do on a 356A Speedster kit. Please don't take the easy way out on this.
Question? Is there enough room to spin the oil filter off without taking the header off? It looks really tight on the vid? Great vid as usual really look forward to them thanks for taking the time and sharing. 👍
Any chance of stealing the header design for a N/A application? I have a 05 subaru liberty/ legacy where these ez30r's came factory and would love my car to sound like that - minus the turbo noises
Go light. Very light with the rtv. Maybe the thickness of a quarter. Less is more. I would totally make a template out of rigid plastic with the torque order for that timing cover.
"I've added a Torque Solution Thermal Oil Filter Blanket to help protect my filter on my STI from the heat of aftermarket headers. If you don't do a relocation.
As bad as the oil filter getting cooked, it didn't look like it could be taken off easily. And remember, typically you do an oil change on a warm/hot engine
That’s a LOT of permatex. The issue isn’t what spooges out, the issue is what can spooge in. Can it fall into the oil and work its way into an oil screen or oil passage?
That oil filter is gonna get COOKED that close to the headers. Use a low profile filter relocation kit and i would still either wrap the header or mount a heat shield.
Personally, even though there are TON of bolts for the timing cover, I would start them by hand. Was taught by a tech never to use power tools to start bolts as you could cross thread them and you're into a world of trouble.
I've been following this for a while and one thing stands out to me. Knowing how Porsche owners, especially those with older cars are, I can't see anyone wanting to do this. Who is going to buy an older Porsche with a not made by them engine. They rebel when the headlights are changed, or recently when 4 cylinder engines were used on the newest models. Of course there's always the Outlaw movement, so maybe...
There’s a lot of cars out there without an engine or with non-number matching engines. Those would be good candidates for this swap. Those with original engines sometimes swap engines but keep the original because a lot of value is placed on numbers matching. Honestly- air cooled engines are a it or a pain- Porsche engines from 68-77 had magnesium cases that usually need thousands of dollars worth of machine work- that’s just getting started - parts are stupid expensive now. And some air cooled engines aren’t great when compared to modern fuel injected engines. A lot of guys with 911s got them when they were inexpensive and parts were equally inexpensive. Nowadays the Porsche (and parts) have gone apeshit and not really attainable to many. This is why you are starting to see previously unloved models like the 914, 944 etc- starting the gain popularity. A nice swap with a fairly stock body appearance would be a nice car for many.
I don't think so. I will say that down the road that I will probably end up designing some headers from scratch that enable that, but this one you're probably gonna have to pull the seven nuts or at least loosen them up a little bit so you have a little more room.
I know this is off topic, but I have a 997 and I am not a fan of the fiberglass kits that are available for my car. Are there some metal fenders like the early cars available for the later 997 bodies? Also your builds are awesome!!
-I think this video is great for many people but it is beyond anything I would ever want to do. -There is a guy in town here that set up a cerakoting "lab" in his backyard. -Very fair prices for his work and fantastic job. -So instead of watching you "cook" in your back yard I went down stairs and watch my wife open our real oven pulling out a tray of hot, fresh, home-made chocolate chip cookies (2 bag of chips per recipe). -With those over sized and over-loads chips called cookies in my hand I will watch your next video. "A garage without a Porsche is just a dark hole" -Walter Rohrl - Porsche Development
Think i seen or read somewhere once shoot outside to work your way down? Possibly saving a run from messing anything you already painted? But im half way threw my blaster build and have a bunch of 2in insulation board with the fire retardant layer. Any feel like finishing it and building an ovan too . Thanks
