I can't even begin to imagine the fear that the Japanese citizens experienced when dozens of B-29's bombed their cities, destroying nearly everything in their path. It is no wonder that when one single plane flew over Hiroshima on Aug 6th, 1945 carrying the 1st droppable Atomic Bomb that they didn't think much of it... until it exploded. It's mind-numbing taken the times into account. The B-29 was and remained for years after WWII the most advanced bombing platform in the world. The Soviets copied it down to the last nut and bolt. Fifi and it's cousin, Doc, are flying history books and an awesome tribute to that period in time.
I toured FiFi in 2014 when she came into KOLM (Olympia WA). I was amazed at the "tunnel" from the foreward to aft section of the plane. Not much room to scoot thru if you were a bit chubby like me!
That tunnel was the forerunner of the longer tunnel used in the B-36. It's shown in the '55-`56 film Strategic Air Command starring the great Jimmy Stewart. At one point he's filmed traveling through the tunnel to get to the aft section of the plane. It's timeless footage. If you've never seen that film you NEED to if you're any kind of an aircraft buff. Cheers!
Thanks so much. It's great to see filming from the rear. I was in the front. We flew out of Schenectady N.Y.. My dad piloted the B-29s from the Philippines into the Japanese mainland.
Had an opportunity to fly with the CAF a couple of years ago. Brought back a lot of memories. .Probably would have been better with less talking in the background
Everything shakes in a B29 in flight and I was crawling through openings the size of a trash can. Make a video in a flying B29 with stable camera work at all times, and I’ll respect your criticism.
I had the opportunity to see Fifi at Spokane's Geiger field many years ago. No one was allowed in the aft compartment, but we did get to climb up into the forward compartment. All seats were taken so I only got to sit at the flight engineer's station. That was very interesting all in itself. Can you imagine sitting in those seats for a 12-hour bombing mission? Then, there was the incredible noise on the flight line as a wing of bombers began starting engines and taxiing to the runway.
We got to watch her last weekend at the Reading World War 2 weekend, lord I knew she was big but I was in ahh at how well she flew and to think at war time seeing 40 50 even 60 of these, plus B17, 24s taking off just impressive.
I was a Mazda tech from 08 to 13 and the oil pain and timing cover leaks on theses was always super common. Was not uncommon to reseal a couple in a week sometimes in a day. With a lift and air tools this can be done in an hour or so. You're a real one for doing it in the yard. I know this was not fun without a lift. Nothing ever is.
This video was incredibly helpful and I could not have replaced the gaskets without your help - thank you very much (longer video as well). This was by far the most extensive work I've done on my vehicle and it took me ~60 hours (noting my inexperience and I replaced all my spark plugs which broke and left 3/6 of the threads stuck, taking a lot of extra time). I have a 2010 Ford Escape XLT (3L, V6). There were some variations, so do your research at each stage and the concepts are all the same. A few more comments: 1) Bolt map - I used old cardboard, outlined (i.e. valve cover, timing chain cover, oil pan) the part and placed the bolts in to ensure the bolts returned to their original spot. This was in addition to labeling bags for everything else. 2) My alternator was in the front of the engine but still had to remove a portion to unlock the timing chain cover. 3) I also replaced the intake manifold and EGR gasket which were quite worn. My vehicle has 285k. This fixed the P0171 (too lean) code that popped up after putting everything back together (took extra time to diagnose as well). 4) If you're an amateur I would highly suggest taking video/pictures at each step and including commentary to refer back to. Especially if doing over a longer period as it starts to get blurry over time. 5) My harmonic balancer didn't have bolt holes and therefore I needed a claw configuration. Make sure to double check which one you need. I view this tool mandatory to properly get the job done. 6) My timing chain cover was incredibly hard to remove (highly recommend the valve covers are removed). I ended up placing a 2x4 against the bolts that connect the timing chain cover to the engine mount and carefully tapped with a hammer until released. I watched the gap/crack slowly widen over an hour and once loose the cover was easily pulled out.
Google it or call a trusted mechanic for a quote. Everything I have found so far indicates that it’s a $1,000-$1,200 job if you have to pay someone to do it. That’s why I posted this video-the parts are cheap, but the job is big. You need to decide whether you’re capable of doing this job yourself.
Excellent video, lots of info... need this done as well as track down an exhaust leak and extract a broken ac compressor bolt to replace. You do anything with the timing chain? Rails or tensioner? You replace the cam or crank sensors? Thx in advance... just trying to get all my ducks in a row and parts on hand before i tackle this elephant👍;)
The guides and chain were okay, so I left them alone. Same with the cam and crank sensors-although I pulled them out of the timing cover to clean it. There was no rattle when I started the engine cold, and no rattle when I revved it under any circumstances, so I didn’t expect a problem with the timing chain or guides. When I got the cover off, I made sure that the timing chain guides were intact (no chunks or pieces missing), and that there was no slack in the chain. My friend was on a very tight budget, so I only replaced what was absolutely necessary. If you decide you want to replace the chain and tensioner/guides, you should research further. Pulling the timing cover is the hard part.
I should explain I had to unpack and repack my tools each time I worked on it, and I did it during me free time while not working. I also had kids asking me questions as I worked haha
@@williammcleod7585 wow thats great. Currently, i've taken everything apart and have the cover off. Will start putting it back together again tomorrow. Am considering dressing the rubber gaskets in a light coat of rtv, besides using the rtv on the usual spots
photos.app.goo.gl/xmpshqeUFVukZVuYA here’s the last picture I took a couple of weeks ago. I drove it 3 days ago, and no trouble. The timing cover gasket was the problem. The gasket leaks oil, and it goes down the “front” end of the engine and drips onto the exhaust, which is hot and makes the oil burn
I’ve heard of people doing it without removing the pan, but it’s not much extra work to do it-and I feel like it’s worth it to make sure everything seals properly. With the pan on, there is upward pressure on the timing cover when you seal it. With it off, the timing cover can settle where it wants to go.
It’s true, removing the exhaust bolts can be a pain. I had to replace two of them. But I was already taking all the other stuff out-it felt like cheap insurance. I didn’t want to have to dive back into it.
Is it possible to add permatex on the entire surface where the gaskets go? I am about to do the same project, but i am really tempted to add it. Is it good to do so? Thanks
Honestly, I didn’t think about doing it. I would imagine it probably is okay as long as you don’t lay it on too thick and let the permatex set up before starting it-which you have to do anyway because reassembly takes so long. I say check the forums. I don’t have a lot of experience with Ford and it’s my friend’s car, so I wanted to do it by the book.
@williammcleod7585 Thanks a lot for your input. I add permatex, so I have a double protection in case the gasket failed in a few years. Of course, I put it and waited 1 hour to tie bolt to spec.
@elflamo7612 I put it all over the gaskets. It worked perfectly with me. Make sure you follow the directions with that product. Also, DONT FORGET TO ADD IT ON ALL THE 6 POINTS WHERE YOU ARE REQUIRED TO ADD IT. I forgot to put it on top (4 points) where the steering pump stays. The good thing is that it was an easy fix since it was on top.
I had a 2001 Saturn SL2 I got in 2006 with 79,500 miles and it was alright for about the first year. Then afterwards it just started falling apart, even with how well I cared for it and kept on top of the maintenance. Mine had all the same issues besides maybe four or five.
I have about 25 of these in my building, suckers' already leaking 2 years after replacing the 1200 cartridge. I am having the hardest time figuring out how to install the upper bracket like you are doing at 7:30. Mine does not so simply slip in, same design too.
There’s a tab on the opposite side of the metal part that hooks into a groove in the top of the faucet. Then you lower it down to put the plastic tab on the center part and screw it on.
Not for this particular engine, but I spent a lot of time taking it apart and reassembling it throughout the process to ensure I could showcase as much as possible with as little disassembly/reassembly during an in-person demonstration as possible. I found that taking the engine apart, marking potential cuts with a Sharpie, then putting the parts back in place helped me plan cuts before I made them.
You may want to take a closer look at the transmission used in the lower end x3 series. Same crap k46 as the big box models. So your blanket statement isn’t correct at all.
I talked to several John Deere dealers and they all said they're all the same mowers, no difference between the mowers sold at Home Depot and John Deere dealers.
Then they were either lying or omitting key information. The D105 I was working on yesterday (bought at a big box store) has a Briggs and Stratton engine and very cheap parts-including the plastic transaxle/transmission. That's not a typo either-I really do mean it has a PLASTIC tranny. If you go to a dealer, you get an S240, which looks almost identical BUT it has a proper metal hydrostatic trans and Kawasaki engine and more robust components all around.
@@williammcleod7585 so what? the D105 will have a plastic transmission whether it was bought at a store or at a John Deere dealer. I don't know why you would compare it to the S240. They're totally different models.
I just looked a licensed dealer's website, and indeed the D, E, and any other 100-Series model line isn't available there. And nothing other than those cheap models are available at a big box store. For your sake, I hope you haven't bought a John Deere from a big box store. That's exactly the kind of mistake I'm hoping to stop people from making with this video.
It is old and clearly you don't take care of your cars. I've owned 10 of the S series and never had issues IF you maintain them, if your not happy with your Saturn go buy a rice burner and support child labor.
if buy a old car that has been abused then dont complain i have had 4 saturns and have had no problems my current saturn i bought 2007 113k miles and is a good driver saturn aura xe
