Vacuum the intake, and exhaust daily. You can use a 3M Filtrete pre-filter carbon filter meant for air purifiers on the intake, and the same brand filter on the exhaust.
Awesome video! Thank you so much. Our dehumidifier was almost as bad, just no slime. I love the prefilter recommendation. And I'd second the commercial coil cleaner recommendation. Our local Ace Hardware had the Frost King brand. I used a whole can on our dehumidifier. Thanks again!
You're welcome. Commercial coil cleaner seems like a great idea to me. I'll be sure to try some next time I need to clean some coils. Thank you for your support and the recommendation.
8:12 These feet are in the box but are completely ghosted in the instructions (other than the parts view); apparently they are supposed to magically appear in position somehow. Additionally it says to put the saw base INSIDE the legs when the legs clearly have to fit inside the saw base. Thats why I came here, wanted a sanity check.
Had this problem in several HF instructions; when they call for a (for example) M6x12 bolt, I wish they would have a lifesize drawing of one so you can figure out which of the dozen bolts all thrown in the bag at once is an M6x12.
Sorry, I still can’t understand why you put the outlet of the leaf blower inside the tank instead of using the inlet part of the leaf blower that is already negative. Could you please explain that? Thank you! I have to clean a industrial laundry site and still figuring out how to do it at the minimum cost. Thank you.!
I didn't do the best job of explaining in this video, but the inlet of the leaf blower is what was inserted into the custom wooden lid of the barrel. The outlet of the blower was pointed out towards the front yard.
Amazing how renewable it is bc can use the wood from trees if pruning from garden and old dead plant matter then just activate or inocculate with microbes.
Yep. I gather brush and dead branches into piles during the year and then convert it to biochar when the piles get big enough. I love cooking over the fire also.
I'm not sure, it depends on the size of the duct to be cleaned. I used a portable 20 gallon, 125 PSI compressor. It had a pump flow rate of about 6.5 cfm I believe. I want more like twice that flow rate when I do this again someday. The compressor I had could not fully keep up. A 40 gallon tank with 150 PSI would probably be enough for what I was doing with it, but I don't know.
You’re hired. This is way too much of a pain in the ass for me. Actually… If I had a garage, I wouldn’t mind doing most things, but apartment living sucks
Great video Phil, i’ve been making brown shirt for years in my woodstove heating my house at the same time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2p6lkGdUT-I.htmlsi=wdx7OaFbnrRYsIO_
they make a cleaner just for air conditioner coils you might try that just spray on then rinse off might not work with all that dust but will probably kill mold and such.
Cook up some old dry wood & watch & tend to it until it's almost fully cooked & glassy when tapped together. Then Quench it with, preferably rainwater with something like fertiliser or Pee. After that, Break it up into small ish pieces, Chuck it in with compost, or anything else that you put on your garden, then watch what happens with your plants.
I'm probably not qualified to advise on large scale use of fully inoculated biochar. However, I do recommend starting off small scale, like a test patch here and there, to get a feel for how it changes the soil. For instance: It may increase erosion or even cause soil to dry out faster in some cases. It really helped the clay soil where I've used it. I'm still experimenting and learning how to use it though.
I’m missing the little piece that floats at the bottom of the tube that helps suction the water. I can’t find a replacement piece anywhere and that piece is causing my flosser to not work. Water isn’t being suctioned through the tube. Is there anyway I can make my own or anywhere I can find that small piece?!
I don't think my water flosser uses one of those. If I understand correctly, the part you are referring to may be called a "clunk". Gas powered model airplanes have them on the end of the fuel supply tube in the fuel tank to make sure the end of the tube is always submerged. It acts as a weight. They can be purchased from some hobby stores and many places online. Maybe try searching for "RC Airplane Fuel Tank Clunk" and see if that could work. I'm not sure.
@@BudgetPhil you wouldn’t believe, I’ve looked inside my tank reservoir through the small hole to try find it and it wasn’t in there so I thought I lost it. When I was about to just throw the whole flosser away I accidentally dropped it and when I picked it up I heard *clink clink clink* and was like wtf? I shook it out and there’s the piece!!!! I guess it was stuck in the side somewhere? Idk but if I didn’t drop it, I would’ve threw the whole thing away for no reason 😂
Thank you so much for the video & to the commenters! I used some plastic from those yellow dishwashing gloves (that had a hole) and you saved me some bucks.
Your commentary and voice reminds me of the audio book for Old Man And The Sea. Also top notch video of this process. Going to have my son give it a go.
My waterpik is leaking like a sieve out the bottom and other places. It had sat unused for 2-3 weeks bf this happened. Any idea what’s wrong and how long is the warranty on these things?
If the nozzle isn't completely engaged into it's socket, then that can happen. My Waterpik gets a buildup of minerals in that socket and sometimes the tip won't want to lock in. A cleaning with white vinegar has fixed that problem for me.
@@BudgetPhilThank you. I’m not home at the moment but I don’t think I ever removed the nozzle. And I’ve always used distilled water bc tap water isn’t really safe. So I doubt there would be any buildup of minerals. I will dbl chk the nozzle when I get home. Any other ideas and do you happen to recall how long the warranty is on these? I saved the box but now can’t find it. 😬
The distilled water should prevent mineral build up I would think. If the nozzle is securely snapped into its socket and the o-ring that seals it is okay, then I assume the leak may be further inside the unit somewhere. I believe my flosser had a 2 year warranty, until I took it apart.
@@BudgetPhilWell, I took mine apart. Even tho I use distilled water, my tip made a crunching sound when I reinstalled it. However, I had already started taking it apart. I hade seen a vid on another type of Waterpik, where inside was all moldy! So I decided I needed to investigate, since mine had leaked. Mine was not moldy and looked nearly brand new. I cleaned all the parts anyway, and then soaked them in distilled vinegar. When I was taking it apart, even tho I was being careful, a little spring flew out, and I didn’t know where it came out from. It’s abt the size of a spring in a pen. Do you happen to know where it goes? In your first vid, @ 55 seconds, you see that little orange plunger in the pump? Yours fell out too. I put the spring under that, in that white tube, as it seemed the only likely place it cd go. However, my eject switch, for the tip, doesn’t spring back when pushed, now; and when I insert the flosser tip, it doesn’t “click” into place. Any idea where that spring goes? The only place I cd see near the tip wd be to put it into the tube where the water comes out and that doesn’t seem sanitary or a good idea, so I doubt it goes there. And if I did put it in the correct place, any idea why my eject button doesn’t spring back? Everything is seated properly. It also doesn’t turn on now, but the battery may hv died since it’s been a cpl weeks since I tested it. It’s been on the charger for abt an hour now, and I took it off to test it. Still not a sound. I put it back on the charger, thinking maybe an hour isn’t long enough to make a sound. But, I probably need to take it back apart anyway. Thx.
I would place the enitire unit (after removing bucket, screen, and panels) into a large tote. Then place a jar of water into the tote, place 5 chlorine dioxide tablet into the jar. Cover the tote air tight. The CD tablets in the jar of water will form a Gas.....that KILLS /destroys mold. Make sure to let unit sit in tote with CD gas for 24hours😊. Then wipe unit clean. Wear gloves, mask and use disposable cloth/paper towels.
I appreciate the breakdown, not many videos cover this deep into an appliance. I was given a unit, thought it was a humidifier (in Florida, essentially useless) and was getting ready to do a teardown. Running the model number, it's a DEhumidifier, a moisture farm. The survivalist in me sees this as a water generator should normal sources become contaminated, And the learning begins. So far I've removed the plastics and filter and they're set out to get rained on as that's clockwork free rinse. I'm adopting this unit so like you, I'm expecting to do a thorough cleaning, it's coming from a filthy place and I don't operate like that. Thanks for the reminder to mind and discharge the starter capacitor, it's been off for a while, but the muscle memory will serve me well when I do the routine service of the unit [should it run]. My coils aren't a moldy mess, but I intend to clean them up before use, and sterilize the unit. If it doesn't sell I'll probably keep it vacuum sealed in a trashbag, store it with the emergency hurricane supplies, if not for drinking water, then for flood response. (I'm assuming if the unit is clean enough and resterilized before use it could be used this way, maybe after another boil, if anyone knows about this I'd be interested in any input. I imagine if hooked up to power, the unit placed outside is capable of producing near-potable water I could pour through a carbon filter?). I hear these things are prone to shorts fires, so going through and pre-mitigating those risks was already on my mind. The pre-filter was a good idea, I'll remember that or see if there are alternatives.
Thank you. I've used the water collected from the dehumidifier to water plants and to moisten compost piles, worked great. I think I would be willing to drink the water if it was filtered enough or boiled, or both. If I could get the coils clean enough and a better pre-filter, then I bet the water would be okay straight from the unit. But I don't know for sure.
From someone who has attempted this, this was an incredibly thorough and thoughtful video. Disassembling cleaning and reassembling a dehumidier is a gargantoun task even if you have the right tools. Living in a very wet climate, and with poor air quality, these consumer grade dehumidifiers just aren't ment to deal with dust. Whatever the case, your video is a great example of exactly what this task requires. Obviously these consumer grade dehumidfiers are not ment to be disassembled, maybe even intended on getting dirty and replaced. Thank you for all the work you put into this video.
I bought it and liked it, after a couple years of use it just burned the brushes out and it is worn out. Could put new brushes in probably. But I still have my 6 1/2 inch Hercules barley used. I still might buy a new Bauer saw just because how easy it is to handle,it is not real powerful but it works well for diy jobs.
It was definitely a challenge for me. Not sure if I would do it again though. Taking video of the disassembly was very helpful during reassembly, but it was still harder than it should be for something that gets moldy and requires occasional cleaning.
I felt like i could do thus until the discharge part, ehh not so sure on doing that! Would dirty coils make the same unit blow warmer air than normal? (Not as dirty as yours was, inside house w no pets dirty)
Yes, I believe so. My dehumidifier was blowing much warmer air when it was dirty. Kept getting hotter and hotter during the months just before cleaning it, until it began to struggle taking moisture out of the air.
will pressing the power button with the until unplugged discharge the stored electricity? This works with electronics and computers, so maybe it's worth a shot.
I doubt it. That might work for the capacitors on the control board, but probably not the start capacitor for the motor. Even if it could work, I would still safely short the terminals together in order to discharge the start capacitor and test it with a multimeter to be sure. It's not worth the risk. I'm not sure what the safest way to discharge that capacitor would be. I assume the dehumidifier has a circuit that drains the capacitor when it's unplugged, but I don't know. And I wouldn't trust that circuit anyway.
Great video! Have you found a model that allows for easier cleaning yet? If so would love to know make/model. Picked up this exact unit free this morning! Cleaning is done, I will assemble tomorrow and test it out.
Thank you. I haven't found a replacement that's easy to clean yet, but I have seen some newer models with pre-filters that look promising. The A/C window unit filter material has been working well for me, just need to change it once every 3 months or so. There may be a washable filter material available.
@@BudgetPhilIDK, but I think upholstery bottom liner / dust cover work just as well. Not sure of the cost bc somehow I’ve amassed quite a bit, both black & white, from estate sales & even an entire roll from a wedding they had used to line the aisle.
Haha i googled How to Deep, clean a humidifier. And this was the first video that popped up. And it's the exact same one i have. What a bitch to take apart. Made to never be worked on by the consumer
Great info. What i found best for the flaps is to cut off a piece of rubber ordinary balloon. It's almost identical to the real thing. I hope this helps someone
