I am dealing with a similar experience. I just took my 2010 Honda element to a Honda dealership in Clearwater Florida where I asked him to road force balance, my tires and hopes of finding out which brand Michelin tire was bad unfortunately I got no report of a bad tire but on the way home the vibration was worse and my steering wheel was pulling to the right upon arriving home. Found the tire pressure to be 36 psi on the driver side and 37 psi on the passenger side, front and back and then attempted to check the torque of the lug nuts, but was unable to loosen the Lugnuts where the half-inch breaker bar on the passenger side so I decided to take it back to the dealership. I demonstrated a Torque wrench setting all the way up to 120 foot pounds that when I checked the torque It simply clicked meaning that The torque was surpassing 120 foot pounds this is not why I take my to a Honda dealership. The only comment made by the head mechanic was, what do you want me to do about it? Seriously? Apologize to start with fire the mechanic they worked on my car and replace every thing until the vibration is gone in my Element. How I cannot even get the dealership manager for the service department to even return my call. This I am at the alignment guy in Gainesville Florida right now; Best in the business of alignments , confirming my alignment is Spot on. Then I will call Honda of North America and file complaint to have my studs Lug nuts, bearings, rotors, and pads, or whatever is necessary to remove the vibration in my front and steering wheel. Oh yeah and get my money back for a job not completed
Had a jeep wrangler that had this issue. The lug nuts were so tight they bored new larger holes in the rim. 2 of the 5 lugs were pulling the rim over the attached lug nuts. Super scary considering the wife and kids ride in that vehicle. Let's just say daddy got the cops called on him when he went to confront the tire shop that day😅
As an ASE certified tech, in my years of experience on these aluminum wheels the lug nut is seized to the rim and not the stud. This occurs frequently and is not because of over torquing the lug nut. If you put your socket on the seized lug nut and give it a few good wraps with a big dead blow or a sledgehammer it will free it so you can twist it off with the impact. To prevent this from happening again clean the rim where the lug nut seats and put some antti seize in there. Don't put anti seize on the threads of the lug nut or on the stud only where the lug nut seats.
I have a hub that's stuck on so I don't have a tire for support and been tighted with a power tool and my car is in the air on Jack's for a day already what can I do I worried
Cheapie "All Weather Tires" in Huntington cost me $50 in lug bolts. I only realized the bolt caps were destroyed when my mom needed help with a flat. Made sure the replacement bolts were one solid piece of metal, at least. My dad makes bad decisions on which businesses to work with.
Good video, but it’s not a 435 lb torque wrench … it’s an Impact gun. (I think you just misspoke?) …..now how to get the old lug nut out of the four way tire wrench?? Vise & pull because it’s toast anyway? Thx!
We just bought a 2014 GMC Yukon for Mrs. Cuss. I wanted to look at the brake pads' thickness, so tried to pull the wheels. Turned out that the GM-supplied lug wrench was 22mm and the lug nuts were 19mm (likely aftermarket wheels). Anyway, the tires had been rotated a few weeks earlier, was not expecting most to be too tight for my 1/2" electric impact wrench which claims 230-250 ft lbs. I pulled out my torque wrench and those were all tighter than its 150 foot lb maximum. Anyway, I used an appropriate 6-sixed socket and long breaker bar to remove them, and I torqued to specification on re-install. I would've been SOL had that happened on the road, and doubt that even AAA could've loosened them.
I concur from Ottawa Canada ... you sir are a legend! 3/4" lug nots torqued to 500 ft lbs I'm sure, all other videos to remove the one stubborn stripped nut that I could not budge with a 10 mile breaker bar were not helpful. Went to the local Canadian Tire, who said $100 just to look at the issue, or buy the $200 nut replacement set. It was your genius, to strip the aluminum jacket with the screwdriver and the chisel, that was the only thing that worked to reveal the rusted but intact 18 mm nut that I removed with the bar! Keep up the good work! And my daughter wanted to say thank you for making this amazing video and my daughter favorite part was when I told her you have a puppy/dog! Thx again!🙂😊
Leverage! You need more leverage and less muscle. Get an extension (metal pipe, crowbar, etc put in the “X” tool to increase leverage) l keep one in car. You can find portable ones that will extend for more leverage at auto parts store.
I may have done this due to listening to my idiot neighbor who claimed to have been a mechanic. He didn't use a torque wrench on the lug nuts, AND he put never seize on the lug nuts. I had to go get a torque wrench after realizing what he (well, what he told me to do) did and torqued them down to spec. But the anti seize affects torque, so now I can either keep it the way it is and hope, or go get my jack out again. But the car has no good jacking point on the back, besides the sides (used for jack stands) and the bottom of the shocks, which sounds dangerous to be compressing the shock like that
Unfortunately these 2 pice lignuts suck ass. They have half sized sockets for these. If a tire shop is telling you to replace your lugnuts then do it. There is a reason. I work in a tire shop and I don't know how many fucking ford cars and trucks I have to hammer on a socket cause of these 2 pice lugnuts like to swell.
I keep a full toolbox in my car, so im prepared well beyond most people. One thing i always carry for my breaker bar is a rocket socket lug nut extractor socket. Ive just started working for AAA and its come in handy, as well as keeping a few spare lug nuts in the toolbox
You are a legend, your video got me out of a bad place, new ranger and every single nut was spinning. No other video , 20 that I found, showed the fix like you. Liked and subscibed, Legend status!!
best way to stop thins from happening.. remove all the oem alum. skinned lug nut and replace them with new reg. lug nuts..did this to my 2014 ford fusion 2.0 se.. replace them with spline drive lub nuts. and never had a problem for many years
Bought me a torque wrench from Harbor Freight 3/8 & 1/2. Also got a breaker bar 3/8 & 1/2. I always torque my lug nuts to specs. If somebody works on my car. I tell them. I also check it when I get home.
I was curious about how you determine if you have the nuts tight enough when using an impact wrench. I came across this info. "Not meant for tightening purposes: Impact wrench helps speed up the process of loosening or removing the nuts/ bolts, whereas a torque wrench is meant for tightening the fixings. Most people are not aware of this fact." Source: 8 Common Mistakes When Using An Impact Wrench
Would be much easier if you slipped a small section of pipe over your wrench... only thing that freed up some lug nuts I'ved dealt with over the yrs. Plus considering the amount of force physically being exerted on your wrench, can keep your hands away from where theyd get pinched if nut breaks free or wrench slips/breaks. Always keep a 2-3' long pipe along with at least 1/2" breaker bar in my truck
A torque multipler is great tool for breaking lugs loose. I just use the standard 15" 1/2 drive breaker bar for most breaking bolts loose. Everything else just needs more leverage applied.
I experienced this very same problem. After several hours of annoying my neighbors with my impact wrench. I decided to take the vehicle to a mechanic, and pay someone to remove all my cheap ass factory lug nuts. And replace them this solid steel lug nuts. You can really annoy yourself. In fighting with yourself in dealing with this situation. Save yourself the headache. And pay someone to do this job for you.😬😬😬😬😬😬🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯😖😖😖😖😖😖😖😖
