Just a heads up to anyone who doesn't want to do this again: use silicone O-rings!!! You need one around 30mm X 3mm. Small back story. I did my wife's coolant flange twice. Each time it lasted a year or 2 before dripping. In 2018 I put a silicone oring in the old flange in the middle of winter. It's been drip free for 6 years!
Hi I know this video is old but I hope you can still reply back quick. So that flex hose clamp tool worked well in that tight area? I wanted to get one for myself so I can access the coolant hose clamp to move it up so I can clamp the hose tighter, I have a slow leak, from the shot engine and trans mounts. I upgraded them
Hi, I too installed a PCV delete kit like you did. That was about 4 years ago now and it has been a great success. I had replaced several OEM PCV's only to have them fail. A bad PCV unit can exhibit several symptoms like poor performance, poor gas mileage, cold surging and poor idle. I suspect that intake valve carbon deposits get blamed many times for these symptoms which is actually a bad PCV. I have never needed to de-carbon intake valves on my 2.0T and it runs and drives perfectly. It has as of this writing, 214 k miles. Hayabusafalcon.
Dude I got the 2.0 FSI non turbo I believe it different than this I tried getting the cap thingy but turn out it was way much bigger than the cap on the engine so what should I do ?
Nicely done. I was looking for the size of the o-ring for that coolant elbow and you mentioned it being the same size as the temp sensor. I had one on the shelf and matched a 20x3.5mm from the Metric Nitrile O-ring Kit.
Do you remove the vacuum pump first then the cover or only the timing cover ( Which has the vac pump bolted to it) . My problem is that the lower bolt on my vac pump is stripped and I couldn't take it off
Awesome video ! Thank you for the tips! I have a 2008 a4. I have a bitching time removing the timing chain cover to do the gasket replacement. It seem like the radiator flange is in the way. Do I need to take off it to get the timing chain cover off?
@@lorddragoono Normally it would vent back into the inlet manifold via the standard pcv ( not a sealed system ) . It’s not doing that now , I had this problem on my car.I had to fit a catch can .
I have a audi a4 b6 2.0 no fsi no turbo but my colant temperatur on OBD2 stay between 94° up to 100°C(in car dashbord it say 90°C) and i have a lot of burned oil can anyone tell me if thats a normal temperatur on my car or is this a problem for burned oil?
For everyone using this, it's just gonna trap crankcase pressure in the case and cause you to leak oil out of ever single seal you can think of, spend the money and buy a damn catch can set up
you're wrong ! all pressure in this case goes through the valve cover and goes to the turbo. This is a good solution because it does not allow oil vapors directly into the intake manifold. i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae31/ciprianpatulea/Audi%20A4%20B7/PCV%20System/PCVsystemboost_zps67b05f43.jpg
@@chodak01 Yes, but still an oil catch can is better than a PCV delete. I have a hunch that in time is not so healthy for the engine to just mount a PCV delete kit
good video! I'm replacing the coolant flange and thermostat on my Audi A4 B6 1.8TQ I didn't remove timing chain cover but did remove intake manifold that makes the job a lot easier.
I went with ecs tuning catch can I used same knock of plate on my 2005.5 b7 2.0t and had for year and started springing oil leaks every were so my new 2007 b7 2.0t went with catch can my 2005 was modded and stage 1 tune
Tony Tonez if you were getting oil leaks everywhere you most likely weren’t getting proper crank case ventilation which caused to much pressure in the crank case and in turn started blowing seals
Hey i added rkx plate and didnt have oil catch can install and people are telling me i can fuck up my engine not running a catch can with the plate 2005.5 audi 2.0t fsi b7
I just replaced mine with no removal of parts other than the battery. Put a blanket across the top of the motor, lean around motor with both hands. Slip the metal clip upwards, wiggle off the hose, then remove battery and thread the hose up to the heater box. Then when putting the new hose on a bit of detergent on the O Ring at the motor end helps pop it back on. The metal clip can be on the hose when re seating it. It just pops on with a loud click. Simple 20 min job. Note when ordering a hose, two hoses one that's to the return tube, the hard one on the end of the engine block is the longer, more kinked and 3 x the expensive one ($78) USD one. The $19 one is the return hose. If the issue is the oring, it's a 10 for 2$ job, the size is External diameter : 28Mm/1. 1"; inner diameter : 20Mm/0. 8" Thickness : 4Mm/0. 2"; color : Black
340Racing_Production I order my parts from FCPeuro. The parts there are lifetime warranty and it's legit. Also the parts are cheaply priced so it's a win-win
thanks bro... my 2008 Audi just started to leak and its a pain to keep buy the German coolant... by the way your video was great information... I learned a few good tips... keep making the videos bro
340Racing_Production thanks man. I want to get active on this channel but I'm just really busy with school. But when I get around to it, I'll make a video on my car and possibly some videos on tuning your own car. I also want to do some DIY repair stuff as well. I'll see how my schedule works out.
Just watched both of your vids and gotta say they're pretty informative and easy to watch. Would love to see some more uploads since its pretty hard to find an informative B7 channel out here. I'm currently trying to DIY a catch can and trying to figure out how to tackle the adapter plate where the pcv valve goes, if you got any tips I'd really appreciate it. Great channel
Just wanted to add an alternative point of view on this by saying that the job can be done without removing the timing chain cover. After fighting with the bottom bolt for 2hrs, I finally gave up and was able to replace the flange by pulling it out the right side by the high pressure fuel pump. It's a pain, but if you put a cushion on top of the engine to protect it (and yourself) you can kneel on the intake and put enough pressure on the hoses to pull them off. Just an FYI for those who still need to go through this....
Jason Hill thanks probably gonna have to do that I don’t have the M12 or the tamper resistance hex and apparently no one in person in California sells them it’s some European thing. This is gonna suck. Do you know where the O rings go tho??
Ian Gillott hey bro I just did this job metal clip for the heater core hose yes. Also I have a question for you I was only able to put 6 screws on the timing chain cover which needs 7 I smell little oil no real leaks do you think it’s fine to run it like that
No probably not, oil leaks are never good. You can get away with it but it will always leak. So are you saying the heater hose can be pulled off, you flipped out the metal clip on the plastic and wiggled off the hose without pulling the vac pump etc off.
I will try Jason's method and if I can't get it off will pull the rest off. Poor design... by Audi, stupid place to put a connection for anyone who has to work on it later. Like the timing belt... 10 minute job turned into a day job by not thinking about maintenance.
irrelevant question but i have a b7 and at the front end of my engine bay i think its my belt tensioner, it shakes a lot and i was wondering if this is something i need to fix asap?
The serpentine belt tensioner? It's not critical but if it breaks and your belt flies off, your alternator won't be able to charge your battery. I would fix it soon but it's not mandatory. Might be mandatory of it's your only car to get to work/school. Good thing changing the tensioner is cheap/easy. Get a long 17mm wrench to make it easier to release tension.
Milton Yup, that's the serpentine belt tensioner. I would get to replacing that when you are able but if it breaks, your engine will still be fine. But again, if it were my car, I'd fix it asap because broken stuff bugs the hell out of me. Lol
hah yeah so many things bugging me about my car i just havent figured out where everythings coming from yet like this sound my car makes letting go of the throttle, almost like the clicking noise when you stop pedaling on a bicycle. wonder if you know what im talking about but if not thanks for helping me already!
Milton check your check valve that connects from the valve cover to the turbo inlet and check your cam follower. Worse case it could be your cam chain tensioner. I have herd it could actually be suspension pieces making noises like that. Check that too.
yes you did a great installation on the Nexus 7. Where did you find a bracket to fit so well between the tablet and the dash? also how is it mounted on the back?
when you take off the engine cover which is 3-4 inches tall the oil tube ( place where you pour oil ) is the same tall. did you change it coz I see nothing like that in your car. check other pics of tfsi engines to compare. cheers!
hi, can you make a review of your car, what parts did you upgrade, what are your opinions on them, what good what's bad and what are the future plans of the car? I really like that intake
Thank you for your answer! I still hesitate between this delete plate and an oil catch can. Tell me if I'm righ, all the bad gas go directly through the exhaust system? If that's true, could that fouled up the exhaust sytem? Sorry for my english...
Rock your English is just fine :) Anyways, what the PCV delete kit does is route all PCV gasses to the turbo. The stock system directs to the turbo or intake manifold depending on boost. This "delete" theoretically shouldn't cause any issues. the PCV system isn't deleted, it's just the gasses are routed only to the turbo. The diaphragm on the stock system is weak and prone to fail and higher boost levels. I would go catch can if you have the funds. But the PCV delete doesn't hurt the car any more than the stock system.
@@StatusQuo209 I would go on oil catch can only from March 'till October. While the below zero temperature season starts, I'd install the PCV delete kit. Why? Because those condensed gases could form into ice on the way to the oil catch can. So you either check and empty your can more often (let's say weekely), either mount the PCV delete kit, or just take the hose going to the oil catch can and putting it back to the intake.
