Donald, I have a 2002 Forrester myself. I did my research (after I cleaned the part and serviced it), and - for those people interested in knowing the "how", here it is: the computer receives info concerning the air temp. Then, adjusts the fuel/air relationship accordingly, and gives it a "digital number" in volts, which is transmitted to this element - which happens to be a "motor", a servo motor, to be exact. A 'servo motor' relates its position in a feedback to the main computer all the time, so it knows where it is at any given moment. The adjustment keeps being done. We should 'clean' its shaft very gingerly, the plunger head very delicately (its rubber might be affected if we use harsh fluids). WD40 seems to be a good choice (which I did not use, btw). Thanks for video.
My 2000 Mitsubishi Galant has a low idling problem. It stalls out when i come to a stop sign or sometimes when i want to navigate a corner. Do you think this could be the problem?
U.S NJ the same , salt kill the metal structure of a vehicle , is like termites eating woods , for got another things, to ask why don't you put the dust boot in too?
Facing similar issue now - while engine is cold, it stalls when accelerator is released - for example, before the traffic light, I press clutch and release accelerator and revs go down to 0 and engine stalls. When engine is hot (over 75 degrees Celsius) idle is ok. Haven't checked how walve is working in my hands, but I have cleaned the housing (as in video) and even replaced the valde with new one (not OEM, but chinese) .. and .. the symptoms are the same as with old original valve ... no changes at all ... :(
That's annoying for you :( try giving the throttle body a good clean and have a good look at all the wee rubber hoses just in case one has a split in it and is sooking some air in casing it to stall.
Useful video, thanks! What if i want to put longer studs? It will fit? Original studs are 46.6 mm long and i need 60 mm long to put another alloy wheels. It is enough space behind the hub to put them?
you had good detailing your video and I did learn a little cuz I'm going to do this by myself but your camera kept wandering off what you were doing and you didn't explain everything you were doing a lot of times you were quiet like did you grease up the top of the strut assembly I don't know what you did there
I've got a 2002 sat on my driveway. Hasn't run in almost a year but I'd bet my left leg if I went out and threw a battery into it, it would start. Great looking cars too, just a shame they rust so readily. The underside of mine looks like a shipwreck. Hoping to get it back on the move again soon, thanks for the video mate. Could be very useful given the state of the upper arms on it.
Galant, still the most reliable tank I have ever owned. Though they really were designed for the non salt smothered roads of Japan. Can account every problem I had to that stuff.
My taillight blew out, and I had no idea how to even open it to check the bulb, but your video helped me! Thanks for taking the time to put up this video. :)
Well I have fitted many sets of shockers in my lifetime and I never felt the need to pump any of them , by the time you drive half a mile in Scotland you shockers will be well pumped :)
Donald: I've serviced my brakes for years and I am always open to new tips and ideas. I was compelled to view your entire video. Great instruction and tips; extremely thorough. BTW, here in the States we refer to that socket as a 6-point versus a 12-pt. The 12-pt allows for finer movement in tight spaces but as you noted is more likely to strip the bolt head due to less surface area being torqued upon. Thanks to you for your video!
No I would not replace the leads /cables as the engine was running perfect. I was just servicing the engine so I was just replacing the plugs, however if you were to be having a misfire problem then the cables would be an item on your hit list of things to eliminate :)
Isn't there a pin that goes through the threading of the upper arm that keeps the bolt from vibrating loose? Not trying to criticize, I just hope it doesn't come off while you're driving down the road! Otherwise very helpful!
No problems, sir. It turns out it's supposed to be between 55-75 lbs of torque. Last time I tackle suspension on a rust bucket without an acetylene torch, though.
Yes that would get the old heart pumping! well I'm glad you found out what it was and resolved it now you just have to rebuild that faith back up takes a wee while. Thank you for leaving a comment and a good pointer to a problem that may be of help to others.
finally sorted out the problem, turned out to be a faulty crankshaft angle sensor, computers !! motor would cut out when I was half way across an intersection with an articulated truck bearing down on me, or when your on a motorway peak hour traffic at 100km/hr. talk about adrenalin junkie, bring back the old school motors !! I'm still alive phew
Ah sorry I never saw you comment till now, I have done so many over the years that I just know when to stop, it's just something you get a feel for. but I am sure the speck is all out there somewhere.
