No, I got rid of the printer. Nothing I did helped and didn't want to sink more $$$ I to a bad platform. I like their smaller printers but won't get a KLP1 anytime soon.
I tried it on an enclosed printer and maybe after 10 layers it already warped off the plate. Maybe small gears in diameter and width are possible but I ended up using PA like sunlight resin in my resin printer and it turned out great. FDM printer fail here unless you have one with a heated chamber
No I would not recommend the V2 nor the KLP1 at this point. The KLP1 I got was the first generation and it was very bad no matter how much I worked on it. The V2 was a good concept but it also suffered some quality control issues on the belt path and my cantilever rail was loose and wouldn't tighten up so my bed level wandered from print to print. There are better alternatives for my money. I can pick up a refurbished Creality K1 for same money and it's enclosed.
Haha you are clueless. The laser moves on this device, then table relocates for additional scans. That may be sub-optimal but that's HOW IT WORKS, so telling me I'm using it wrong just makes you seem ignorant.
SERIOUSLY??? LOL Calm down. I can't believe you even posted this video OR replied to rather then asking forgiveness for posting it. Look at your video. The target is NOT rotating 360 degree while the laser is fixed on it. In fact the target NEVER rotate 360 degrees. The laser scans the area then target rotates about 5-10 degrees after the laser passes. Then it does the same thing again. As I said you should learn how to use it first - then demonstrate how to use it properly. Out of the two people that commented and over 100 total views you don't have a single thumbs up LOL. I wonder how many thumbs down . . . but you surely know LOL. You should take this video down as it must be embarrassing. So . . . who looks ignorant and clueless now? ROTFLMAO! @@crazynanoman
I was wondering if it needed tuning through the rs232 however you say it’s junk so I’ll save my money. I decided to go with machdrives servo drive. I have 2 spare motors I wanted to play with so I was thinking these drives as an alternative. I would be getting what I pay for it seems. Thanks for posting this.
It seems to like orca slicer more than cura. I still struggle to get first layer repeatedly. It's printing ok. It's the worst print quality of any of my printers but it does function now.
I have one and do not have any issue whatsoever. In fact, it prints very fast and the prints come out great. For under $350 - this can't be beat! You can always find a better printer if you want to spend more money, but no complaints here.
Can you post some pics of things you printed? The printer does print and print fast, my problem was the layer quality was poor and given many other printers including kingroon KP3s this one had something wrong. It was heavily modified to attempt to fix issues and the issue remained.
@@crazynanoman great 👍 what is the print speed for this gear in video? I'm just creating thermal box for my printer now, very interesting how it can increase print performance for nylon filament printing...
Which is it over or under or you don't know? It's not filament as I dry it and prints beautiful on other printers. It could be slicer but it's Kingroon's profiles and slicer.
My issue was probe was too high. That made nozzle hit bed and stall motor while still trying to get to the probe trigger. I fixed by lowering the probe to 1mm above nozzle.
I have the save problem on v2 after printing abs. I did a bit research on the sensor and it looks like it's made from maximum temperature of 55c. Dod u solve your problem or did u replace the probe?
KLP1 y la KP3S PRO V2 son un problema, un dolor de cabeza, lo bueno que la gente ya se está dando cuenta y en servicio de #Kingroon son muy desagradables. Mejor no comprar.
I'm not sure but my braces help a lot and they changed the bed to make it stiffer. I think my issues are hotend related. I want to try their new improved hot end for it.
@@crazynanoman ic. Thks. I thought it were to do with bed vibration and yeah their gen2 seems to have an all metal hotend. I am tinkering if I should get one for the price. The K1 is more expensive but heard there are some proprietory software issues like one needs a cloud account for the app to work that sort, which is a bit of a concern for me
@@quarkpix K1 is better printer hands down. It's also more $$. The app sucks but I don't use it so not a biggie for me. I don't think I'd buy a KLP1 at this point if I could do it over again. Just doesn't work well and quality issues. If you don't need an enclosure, the V2 is decent and fast.
I just ended up getting my money back. A fast corexy for that price sounds amazing, but even at low speeds and after hours of adjusting things on the printer and in klipper it can't even print the most basic models. I will just get the Neptune 4 instead.
@@balazslennek depends on your situation. The V0.2 is not a good ONLY printer, but a great second printer. It's fast and works great if setup well. The KLP1 has too many issues for me to recommend at this time. I'm testing a K1 now and it may be a good alternate.
@@balazslennek the Voron is a bit small for an ONLY printer but it can print all the parts for a bigger Voron. I just tested the K1 and it's impressive. Cheaper than a Voron, runs Klipper and enclosed.....hmmm.
I would NOT recommend the KLP1 printer at this time. I've had issues from day 1 and although Kingroon has worked to help me and even offer replacement parts, it still doesn't print well.
@@crazynanoman Ahh, it's a shame, it looks like a great printer. I asked kingroon, and they said late july they will re-release the klp1 with 310 hotend and some fixes... I think i'll wait.
@@balazslennek there are pics on AliExpress of the NEW revised KLP1. It looks better but my issue seems to be rigidity related. The new pics do have stiffer bed support bracket so might fix the root issue, not sure.
I have now installed my replacement parts and it still doesnt print well. The print quality is not as good as even their KP3S printer. I think the poor print quality is a vibration of the bed.
