This channel is to help assist do-it-yourselfers with repairs and modifications to their small engine equipment. There are no guarantees in life and the same goes for this channel. Take the information that helps and leave the rest. I try to record the most common repairs/problems and post them when I can. If you have a particular request, please leave a comment or email me at service@danssmallengine.com.
Just buy an electric snowblower with a spare battery. It will start up every single time without any problems. I hate gas snowblowers. The engines they produce for them are trash compared to all of the technology we have to produce better engines
So right now, I have 216,324 miles on the truck and all is well. No noise, no leaks at all! One thing I wanted to mention to others facing this issue is that Valvoline has a new oil on the market and it's supposed to remove varnish from the internals. I watched a few videos and talked to a few guys who said it really works! Before taking your engine apart, I would try a few oil changes with this stuff and see if it might be enough to free up the tensioner and stop the noise. Here is a link to a video on the product from the "oil guy" who seems to have more knowledge than most. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kyyZDghgdCI.htmlsi=FL9y2d9Efof2lwta - I have no connection to it. You could also try some of the engine flush products to see if they help. I'm a bit apprehensive about using those products because they can create acids and other chemicals that are not good for the motor. They also recommend changing the oil twice to get the flush product out of the engine completely. Good luck!
Thanks for the straightforward video, very easy to follow. About to tackle the head gasket on my 21 HP B&S intek engine and will be using this for guidance. Was happy to find out the rockers didn't need to be removed.
Thank you for this vid. I’m in the process of replacing the head gaskets and all that timing mess left me with some apprehension. My mind is much more at ease now. Thanks again!
Hey I hope you doing well. I'm Mike ,let me tell you ,this was my first time opening and engine and change the timing chains and I really have a hard time searching for put the timing back, but when I saw your video an explanation made my life a lot easier because you said exactly what I need for finish that engine. Thanks .
When I changed my timing chain the tensioner looked fine seemed to work good by hand. The varnish causing it to lock up when pushed all the way in was the problem as it would stick until motor was warm. How ever if the varnish was re moved the used tensioner work great. Sea Foam removes this varnish and restored parts original function. Just keep using until it's like new. I used Pro Long to reduce engine friction by 80% 230,000 miles and never uses oil if changed by 4000 miles.
This happen to me this was the trick. Read tile end. At first at about 80 thousand it started. I had the timing chain changed... That help for about 30 thousand miles. At $2800. What causes it is the varnish on the tensioner .....and the vvt valves. So it went on until about 230,000 miles... So under my reluctant judgement I went to O'Reilly's and bought one can of sea foam to remove varnish before oil change. I ran it on idle as I was traveling using inverter for about 60 hours then it almost went away. So I did an oil change. And that did it acts as if it is new again. I will now use Sea Foam before oil change more often. The tolerance of the parts of this motor are such as that as seen in video here the tensioner get varnish on the end of it's shaft and sticks holding it in.... The vvt silinoids also are the problem as they stick not allowing the timing to position until motor is warmed up enough to expand plastic loosening to adjust time on vvt valves. I had this problem, I paid the price no changing oil enough because I was running full synthetic. That is a no, no. Make sure to change oil 3000 to 4000 miles or it will varnish inner parts. Hope this helps, I scoured You Tube for years with the fix and never found it. This is the fix.... If you have to change the oil and use another can of seafoam until it stops and goes to normal operation. One ounce per quart of oil only.
this video rocks....sir you have done an awesome job. I am right now doing this work, my 2007 toyo 5.7 blew the right head gasket. Truck has 272000 miles....but the gasket gave out. all original, chains, sprockets, lifters etc...all look brand new. however i have replace gaskets, lifters, cam chains both short and long. This engine is a monster and can be very intimidating, but I have surviced.... I just installed the heads/ cam cages, and working on timing chains. I wish i had the video equip to video,,,i have learned so much.
I just finished a chain job on a lx570. They all do it. Poorly designed and laid out v8 with too much emissions systems. Nissan VK56DE makes the 3UR look like a joke. The new VK56VD is garbage too now unfortunately. First gen titans for LIFE!
I have one of these and am nervous seeing two positive red wires on the AC input side, is this unit forgiving? I'm assuming it works regardless of which input red wire goes to the positive side of the stator and the other red wire goes to the ground.
This was a quick and fairly simple solution and I may implement it on my Ariens 1128 Pro that has this exact same design. But what brought me here was that the thumbnail was promising in as much as it showed the chute. I lost the bolt that holdes the chute to this swivel/adjustment "thingy" - the bolt in question got lost in the snow and all I could find was the locking (one of the squished-slightly-oval type). Not too sure about the bolts design or size, but the nut is close enough that the thread goes on a M6 metric bolt. The hole is square and it is pretty tight between the chute and the bracket so I was looking for an image or video to see what it could look like. A very short carriage bolt in M6 fits nicely but the square hole was too large to capture it and it just spins when I try to tighten it.
Its always the driver side tensioner to its the only one that uses oil to pressure it mine failed and timing guide came off and fell into the oil pan and got munched up and put aluminum filings through my crank and took out my bearings make sure you change oil at 3-5000 you should be alright dont use heavier wait oil the tolerance s in the engines are small and heavy wieght oils will do more harm than good
On the min 28:02 the intake cam on the driver side, the timing mark is in the 12o’c position then at 28:31 its shows that is the 10o’c position, which should be the right position. How do you get the cam the to the correct position? Thank you and btw great video!
impressive crankshaft swap. Tough to know when putting a knock off engine is a better choice on an older machine. Basically all brand new with your repair. Customer must think you are the best. I can not find much on line about how good the Hydrostatics are. A little tiered sometimes when snow gets on my friction discs. A repair guy told me the Hydrostatics are happier if kept in warmth as opposed to being left outside to freeze between uses.
Great video. Thanks. I have a PowerMax 826LE Model 38620. How can I tell if its a shear pin or roll pin issue. The impeller stopped while I was moving very heavy snow at an off grid cabin. The impeller just spins. Thanks
Do you have the Buck AC/DC rectifier on your machine? I got mine the other day and I did some testing with the Buck rectifier hooked to the snowblower and reading DC output from the multimeter, I noticed at idle I get full 12V while at full throttle it got down as low as 8V....
@@MrOlemannen96 I tested again with load this time 12V 18W LED, it's not dimming when under full throttle. I think mine was getting low DC volts when measuring under no load. If you have a Multimeter test the AC input leads at low and high rpm to make sure you don't have a bad coil.
The head gasket failed because 4 bolts can not hold it tight all around. Even smaller lawn mower flat head engines use 7 bolts. This engine is designed to fail.
Hi Dan, I have an HS 1132. Do I still need to add the bridge rectifier it did come with a large halogen lamp. I watched Anthony’s video and it appears he just popped out a halogen bulb and added a par 36 LED bulb, it a smaller housing for the bulb. no mention of bridge rectifier.
It's a bad design, and it doesn't allow enough oil to enter the tensioner. Toyota knows this, they've redesigned the tensioner to correct the problem. However, they DID NOT issue a technical bulletin or recall notice to owners. There is a TB that just says the part has been redesigned, and the new part number is a suitable replacement. I'm currently replacing all three tensioners in a 1GR-FE (same tensioners). They all failed with low millage and proper maintenance. If you have a vehicle with that model of tensioner, you have a disaster waiting to happen under your hood. Or not, mine was running fine with no tension on any of the chains. Minor excessive valve train noise and an engine whine is what alerted me to the problem. No drop in performance, efficiency, or DTCs.
Awesome video. Thank you for posting. Used it to replace the head gasket on my snowblower this week. Thank you for showing all the bolts as you put them back in, this made re-assembly a lot easier.
I think it’s varnish as well. Other folks in other videos have said they run seafoam treatment through crankcase/fuel system and some have success with it fixing the tensioner. Seems like it’s worth it to try removing varnish before taking on the huge job or paying to have it done.
