Mine will start and then stall. When i take the carburetor bowl off fuel is flowing through the fuel line, but when i look under the air filter it gets dried up. I think fuel isnt reaching the engine to keep it running. Do i need to use air ans carburetor cleaner and spray up into it like you did?
So I just picked up a second hand machine this morning and I remove the screw (planning to clean and oil) on the back and it won't slide up. It goes about a 32nd of an inch and runs into the top of the machine with hangs over just that much. I'm pretty leery of putting a screw driver in there and pushing it out far enough but is that the way it works? thanks for this vid. I found a manual on line but there aren't any oiling instructions in it.
Best thing you can probably due is to use a bright LED pen light and try to see where the back panel is touching, and then figure out what needs to be done to get it to move. Re: oiling, most machines have red paint next to the locations that need oil, or an actual oil hole that has red paint round the circumference. Otherwise, rotate the machine by hand, and simply oil all the parts that you see that rotate or slide. It's pretty low tech.
I have the exact mower. Was running great till i hit a stump on the front where the OHC plate is at. It has a dent now and wont start now. Can u help plz. Not sure if thats the reason it stopped working.
caved in bar, busted off wheel and wrecked height adjustment - mower is being used as the 4x4 model 😢 - Question - I have a Honda hht25s string trimmer and the manual calls for NLGI 2 general purpose grease for the head and flex shift - do you have a good recommendation for this specific grease - a brand you use? NLGI 2 comes in a very wide range so it gets a little confusing
I think you'll be fine using any NLGI 2 grease from a reputable company. IMO, since we're no flying these to the moon, we don't have to get to technical about greases.
Great job! I'm so glad the video was helpful!! If you'll keep a few ounces of SeaFoam in your fuel at all times, you'll stop having carburetor issues due to ethanol fuel degrading.
Ha! Thanks for the kind words. Currently in the final weeks of training for my 13th R2R run, mid-August, to celebrate my 61st birthday. Love running in the Canyon.
I, too, bought a 6030 stuck in reverse. Even with just tri-flow, some heat, and time, it sprung back to life in 3-4 days, going through several phases (hard to move, screwdriver only, to move with my fingers, to slooowwwwly moving out of reverse by itself, to bouncing back). Give it time, folks, work it morning and evening. I finally got the carb cleaner today (B12 per recommendation) and it hasn't seemed to make any further improvement to the responsiveness. Thank you for the confidence builder, another vote for "It's really possible" and to emphasize give it TIME with even just the tri-flow!
TriFlow is a lubricant. It's not a penetrant, so it doesn't creep or contain solvents that would work to soften and hopefully remove the old dried grease. PB Blaster, or better yet, Kroil, would be the preference, along with the carb cleaner, and heat. Once things are moving freely, the TriFlow can be used as a lubricant, which is where it excels. Glad you were able to get your machine going again.
July 2024 Update: I performed this repair in late June 2020. The trunk latch started failing again in the last month, and once again I had to crawl in and open the hatch from inside the trunk by partially removing the plastic interior panel, and fishing my hand down into the hatch, so that I could pull on the latch actuation rod. I went back through the tests, including using the 2 components shown in the video as test pieces. What I found was that the metal contacts inside the tan plastic electrical connector on the driver's side of the hatch, had lost their spring tension, so the connector was dead, unless I wiggled it, or the wiring. I cut the wires off the connector (2 brown wires with black stripes) and connected them together permanently using 2 butt-splice connectors. Problem solved. The extremely poor design and build quality of these Beetles is shocking.
You're very welcome! We just started having the same issues again, and I had to open the hatch by crawling into the trunk over the folded down rear seat, remove the 2 plastic panel screws, get the panel away from the hatch enough to get my hand in there, and trigger the rod for opening. With the hatch opened, I started doing voltage and ground test again, and using the 2 spare parts that I purchased from the wrecking yard prior to making this video, as my function test parts. I found that the 2 brown-with-black stripe wires that are in the tan plastic connector on the driver's side of the hatch, had metal contacts that had just lost their "springy" tension, that keeps the female metal contact grabbing the male metal contact. Wiggling either the wires on either side of that tan connector, or wiggling the 2 connector halves, immediately made the latch start to function again. I cut the wires off that connector, and used 2 butt-splice connectors to permanently connect the wires. Problem solved. I then inspected the similar style connectors on the other side of the hatch, which control the roof spoiler that this car has, and sure enough, they were green with corrosion inside. Cleaned those up, and put dielectric grease on the metal contacts.
Thanks Teresa! I still own and use this machine, but I'm not sure how "reassembly" info or photos would help you because of how complex the machines are inside. There'd just be no way of showing all the detail and settings.
Tips for running and hiking in the Grand Canyon, if I may: Best times of year to hike and run: -DO NOT HIKE OR RUN IN THE GRAND CANYON IN JUNE AND JULY -The best months for hiking and running Rim To River and Rim-To-Rim are late April through the end of May, and mid-August through the end of October. -Use your training to determine how fast you can comfortably travel over extremely tough, steep, terrain, with all your gear, add 40% to that per mile time, and then you'll have a reasonable idea of how long it will take you to get to the very bottom of the Grand Canyon, where it is the most dangerous, due to the elevated temperatures. You can use this link at the Nation Weather Service Website, to view current, and predicted temps on the South Rim: forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-112.14637756347658&lat=36.040476129837344 Click your cursor on the river area, just about the green box on the map (that this link shows) and that will give you current and predicted temps at the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch area. Click your cursor on the plateau at the other side of the map, to see North Rim temps. Do the math on your pace, and pick a start time for your hike that allows you to get to the bottom of the Canyon, BEFORE 7am. NEVER start a hike or a run late, because you will literally be hiking or running into the hottest part of the day, be trapped in the sweltering heat in the Gorge area of the canyon, and you risk death. IF, due to age, health, obesity, lack of fitness, lack of balance, inability to operate under an athletic work load at high altitude, bad feet/ankle/knee/hip joints you are not able to maintain a solid pace, whether walking, or running, stay out of the Canyon, during May through October. The 2 recent deaths (May and June 2024) in the Canyon were in the Gorge, alongside the Colorado River, on the River Trail, and the most recent one was an obese man in his 60's Nutrition and Hydration: -Avoid inflammatory foods (cashews and peanuts are extremely inflammatory and absolutely wreck your digestive system), and foods that contain weird ingredients like carnuba wax (jelly beans, gummies, blocks, etc.) which also wrecks your stomach. Dr. Gundry has a "Yes and No Food List" on google, so you can cruise through that, and significantly change your health, and also fuel better during an endurance event like hiking, backpacking, and running in the Grand Canyon. -Eat simple, easily digested foods, like you would normally eat (nothing new on race day, mentality). Peeled tangerines are heaven, and so is extremely ripe pineapple. Let a pineapple sit out on your counter until the leaves wilt and the body turns golden, and the inside, including the core, will be amazing. Acidic stuff like this on an endurance run is fantastic, and because it's acidic, your stomach isn't getting "food" that makes it want to ramp up it's acid level. Tangerines and pineapple, (look up their nutritional facts) are packed full of the kind of nutrients you need to be fueling with, including "Whole Vitamin C" which is really important. -Avoid anything with oils or grease because there's no way your stomach is going to attempt to digest that, so it's going to sit there like a brick, and destroy you. -Watch out for the contents of "bars" for the same reason as oils. They're packed full of inflammatory grain, and just become in indigestible brick. -Read the labels on your electrolyte mix and find out what's really in there, and what you're really getting. I use Liquid I.V. in all of their flavors that have sugar. Favorites are the lemon or lemon/lime. Their Lemon/Ginger "Energy Multiplier" flavor has macha green tea, and it's the go-to, for midway through when I'm getting pretty wrecked and need to relight the fires. To the first 21oz flask of the day, I add 1 vitamin B complex 100 pill, and 2 magnesium lysinate pills (Doctors Best Magnesium from Ama z0n) that I break in half. All of my subsequent fill ups get 2 mag pills broken in half. You can visit Dr. Carolyn Dean's excellent website and learn about the importance of magnesium. -GU Roctane every 45min or so, both with and without caffeine. -I carry a 5hr energy drink bottle as my back up plan Let's talk sun exposure for a moment: Ball caps and short sleeve or tank tops in the Canyon are an absolute recipe for disaster. If you look at how much of your head, face, neck, back of your head and neck, and arms are exposed to the high altitude (less atmosphere for protection from the UV) sun, you literally spend the day being microwaved by the sun. That's a day ender, right there. Full brim hat, like the Sunday Afternoons "Compass" hat (what my daughter and I wear) is what you want. Stiff brim that stays horizontal for maximum shade (as compared to a floppy "boonie" style hat) and allows maximum air flow around your face and neck, so you stay cooler than if you were wearing one of those hats with the curtain that hangs down like a tent and traps heat like a sauna. If you want to run in short sleeves, then wear white arm sleeves. The arm sleeves get sweaty, and then cool you really well, and the loose shirt short sleeves, act like air scoops for the shirt. A dry-fit fabric shirt is a must. A cotton shirt becomes a soaking swamp. I wear the Nike ProCombat with perforated back panel and underarm panels. Mercari/Poshmark/ebay are your friend for those. And a bonus; you don't need sun block, so your skin's pours are open and breathing, and it's one less thing to carry and deal with! Get your hair wet. That's a must. You also need to soak your shirt and hat. I body core temp creeps up on you in the Canyon, and one minute you're fine, and the next minute you're puking. It's extremely hard to turn that around once it hits. If you are hot enough to be dipping your head, you are too hot already, and should go soak in the creek for 15min or so. After that keep hair/hat/shirt wet for the rest of the day. There's a water spigot on the Colorado side of the trail, 200m before you get to the Black Bridge, if you're coming off, or heading to, the S. Kaibab Trail. There's another spigot about that same distance from the Silver Bridge. That's where to soak one last time, and fill up water if you're going up S. Kaibab or Bright Angel, or if you've just come down them. Lastly, a tip for running down S.Kaibab. If your fitness level and run speed are such that you can go 7mi without water, don't carry any. It makes a HUGE difference not to have that bouncing weight blowing up your quads and calves on the way down. Have a peeled tangerine or couple slices of ripe pineapple and a GU Roctane as you get past Skeleton, and you're good to go. When you exit Black Bridge, head over to that spigot that I just mentioned, have a drink, wet your hair, and finish that final mile into Phantom... where you can fill bottles for real. Drink one full bottle of electrolyte at Phantom, and you're tanked up and ready to roll.
You're very welcome! There's a lot going on inside the handle, and the Stihls are probably the most difficult, out of the 3 or 4 commercial brands (Shindaiwa/Echo/Husqvarna/Honda).
I have a 61 just like this that the previous owner wrecked the kill switch on. I got a new one off amazon but the old one was grounded to the case and there's only one wire. Do I just need to run a wire from the other terminal on the new one to somewhere on the case? I couldn't find any case grounded switches like the original for sale.
Thanks for the video and no nonsense explanation. Some twig went under my mower and dislodged the drivebelt. I was able to put it back on myself with this video
Great job fixing it yourself! I'm glad the video was helpful. When you get a chance, inspect both cooling fans at the top of the transmissions, because usually when the belt gets pitched off, it'll break off the blades of the fans, like you see on the machine in this video. Running the transmissions without proper cooling will destroy them internally.
@@austinado16 Thanks for the reply and good call on those cooling fans. Surprisingly and fortunately, the blades are all still intact. Must've just been a freak accident when the brush twig dislodged the belt I suppose.
@@youngeebs It's not uncommon for twiggs/branches to get up into the top of the decks, or up into the transmission belt area and derail the belt(s). I'm glad the cooling fans weren't damaged.
It's not an aftermarket tank. The part number that I show will allow a new tank to be ordered from a local dealer, or any of the online parts vendors, including ebay.
Todd, excellent progress on the HTO. I was looking for a place to message you as I have joined the club (5 weeks Post) and you are an inspiration. Glad to see you back doing what you love with the ones you love.
If you go to the home page for the channel, click on the arrow located at the end of my initial statement about what the channel is about. That will open a window, and give access to the email address, at the top of that window. Let me know if that doesn't work. Congrats on the 1st surgery, and at 5 weeks, how are you doing and feeling? As you've no doubt seen from the skiing videos, and the May 25th speed run in the Grand Canyon, I'm back to being 20-something again. Not only that, but because I'm not "carefully" running/mountain biking/skiing, I've survived umpteen trips, falls, and crashes. I wish you the best, both in the immediate recovery, and 2nd surgery, but in the long-term as well! I'm looking forward to hearing from you!
Can't believe the amount of crap getting past these air filters on these engines. I ended up putting some die-electric grease on the base of these filters to get a good seal. They are terrible on thier own.
Hopefully the redesigned filter with the raised rubber ridge around the top, and the new filter covers and bases will prevent that from continuing to be an issue.
Love my HRC216 - if you get time, and another HRC216 in for repair, can you go over any preventative maintenance items you would like to see done to extend life of the mower -
On a home owner machine, other than blade sharpen, blow out the air filter once in a while, and change the oil, there's almost nothing to do. Maybe every few years drain and refill the transmission. The most important thing for a home owner machine is to always use fuel treated with SeaFoam, in order to prevent corrosion in the carburetor that leads to loss of idle, and surging unless the blade is engaged (which uses different circuits in the carburetor). If the machine is used on a wet lawn, especially a fertilized lawn, the underside should be washed after use, and the machine left in the sun, laying on it's side, muffler side facing down, to dry. Leaving wet grass, especially fertilized grass will badly rust out the deck, blade clutch mechanism, bearings in the blade clutch, and the bearings and ratchets in the rear wheels. Even on a commercial machine, it's the same sequence, but it's just done more frequently. I generally only see commercially used machines, no matter what type of machine they are. They are damaged far more frequently than they ever even need service, so they get serviced as part of the damage repair.
@@austinado16 thank you for the fast reply - yes - I am a home owner not a commercial operation - I do wash out the lower deck after mowing on slightly damp grass. i am worried about rust so I will add the tip over recommendation.
There will still be fuel in the carburetor bowl, even if you allow the engine to sit and run, with the fuel lever turned "off," until the engine dies. This is why it's important to treat the fuel with SeaFoam, year round, unless you're mowing weekly, and using up the fuel in your fuel container, monthly.
Duct tape worked wrapped around the hand grip when I broke my throttle lock (operator presence level) on both my 395xp and 372xp chainsaws and couldn't figure out how to replace them. Don't ask how they broke...........
Nice video. I have one question. I picked up a used HRC 216. I took apart the rear drive wheels and cleaned everything . Everything looked good. Installed everything in the same order you did. My rear wheels click when rotated in one direction and lock when rotated the other. However, when I engage the drive handle, the bolt in the center of the rear wheel spins, but the mower doesn't move. What did I do wrong? Thanks
Sounds like you have the ratchet pawls facing in the wrong direction. So you either put the pawls back onto the ratchets facing in the wrong direction, or you put the "left" ratchet onto the right wheel, and the "right" ratchet onto the left wheel. I have a video about disassembly and cleaning of the ratchets, here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eXCTEu224Sc.html
@@austinado16 Thank you my friend! That was most definitely my issue. I switched the ratchets from left to right and it will pull you around the yard now!
"Not too excited about how that wheel looks." Lmfao. Sorry, but that got me. You didn't seem thrilled about anything on this mower but that wheel topped it. 😂
I've never tried red loctite in these applications, thinking the red packs a stronger punch than the blue and needs to be removed by heating the parts. What's your experience if you had to remove that muffkin in a year?
Red is no problem to remove at all, whether in automotive use, or something like this. I use it all the time. I've needed to do anything special to remove it. Blue is fine, but in applications where I know the fasteners are going to vibrate loose, like these big catalytic converter mufflers, the screws that hold the intake blocks to the DH235's and HT235's, and the carburetor screws for those, and certain other machines; red is always what I use.
Thanks so much for this well presented video. Just what i needed to get my Honda HRC mower running again. Top tip...after reassembly, remember to put the spark plug back on, otherwise the engine will never start. Don't ask how I know! 🥴 Engine then fired up first time like a champ and ran oh so smooth😊
I'm so glad to hear you found the video helpful, and nice job getting your machine all dialed in!! Well played! Thanks for the tip on sparking bolts lol
Hello, I have the same mower but only the right wheel moves when I use it any any ideas why that would be? It works normal no issues with speed just the left doesn’t move.
The ratchet for the left side rear wheel has stopped working, either because it's failed due to rust/debris, or because the drive pin that locks it to the transmission axle shaft has sheered off. You'll find my video on the ratchets helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eXCTEu224Sc.html Typical parts needed for the repair: -Rear wheel: 42700-VK6-020ZA -Washer between wheel and ratchet: 90551-VA4-800 -Left ratchet: 23520-VB5-803 -Drive pin: 91101-VA4-801
Well done in making these videos. We find out that many homeowners just refused to pay for lawnmower repairs Or people looking to buy a used mowers want to insult & lowball to buy. My niece doesn't repairs nor sell used much lately.
