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@Plastic Makes Perfect - Which firmware did you end up installing? I checked the Ender 5 Pro area and there seems to be a hodge podge of ones to install.
Does anyone have working firmware for this printer? the full thing or the compiled .bin file would help me tremendousley! for a mks robin nano v1.2 Reply
I bought mine used and the fans ducts were broken I noticed that they were 3d printed do you know if the files to reprint them came on the stock sd card
Very informative! I reckon this is the model I'll be buying with my daughter as our first printer, jointly owned. I've done a lot of work with my 600x900 Chinese laser cutter, at 10 times the cost, which has a REALLY lousy operating system that is an unreachable black box. I prefer not to make the same mistake with 3D printing, which is why I've waited so long to get one (living in South Africa BTW - support is non-existent for a lot of stuff).
Thankyou my prints just wasn’t right I’ve moved the nut on the back which was done up so tight I thought it was welded. I got my grips on it . Thankyou brother .
Hello, do you have a good profile for ender 5 pro ? my printer have more probleme for printing and i'm stuck with the warping and stringing and i fault some print ( sorry for my english i'm frensh ).
Hi. Not sure if they changed manufacturer or what. I bought a Creality Enter 5 Pro because of your review saying it's silent. Unfortunately when I turn my it's like a fighter jet, and the loud fans remain for the entirety of time it's on. Like yeah, the drivers are silent, but the fans are so loud you can't even tell.
I am wanting a 3D printer that i can design my own jewelry . Design as though i was useing half round wire with twists and curls. Wjould i be able to do this with this 3D printer? I also want to do Lithophane images. Never ever used one and only saw a simple Ender 3 work on a thin designed 3/4 moon design. Any suggestions is grate.
Enjoyed this review. Trying to decide between this printer, the newer Pro that came out this week, or the Fokoos. The Pro, ($500), doesn't seem that much different, and this is a more reasonable price. However, the Fokoos is now on sale at their site for $259. Main drawback on that is no auto bed leveling. I have a Labists ET-4 that's gathering dust because I can't get the bed lavel.
hey i just assembled my ender 5 plus. i am trying to find the right firmware to flash for the LCD screen and the motherboard, or printer itself. I cant seem to find anything that helps. I already have the hex file. i just do not know where to go from here. any help is appreciated.
Excellent review, thanks for sharing. Do you slice and then put on the SD card, or do you send direct to the printer via USB connection (eg having a computer connected all the time and treating it like a regular printer)?
good info,,, thanks. Mines in the mail, and will be my first 3d printer. 13 and 16 yr old boys are excited to learn, as they both had a small week class in 5th grade on a cad program, where they designed their own space station module, and then those were 3d printed for all kids to have one, on a key chain. What first filaments in order of usability, should us newbies order? I want hard durable, possible car parts, type material,, and then the soft kind for phone cases, and rubbery items. Thanks
@@raven8510 Well, first thing I did, was download a Dewalt tool holder file! Leveled bed,,, manually, then again,, and set it for PLA and let'r rip. Turned out99% good,, a bit of separation on 1 corner. Not bad for first time. Using stock PLA that comes with printer,, which, isn't that wippy, other have said. So I ordered some new, ABS, Black PTA and PETG,, then some TPS, the rubber stuff,, I haven't tried that yet ABS,,, needs enclosure or No draft area to get best results. hard to get dialed in otherwise. PETG- tough as ABS,, print's Way better, closer to PLA. more dialing in with it, but once done, works great, great results, and can be used outside in weather, or heat of car won't hurt it. So radio knobs,, tractor parts, etc. Having no other experience, it's gone good with the help of a few here on YT. They say it's the super easy to set up, and it was,, 15 mins, and I was ready to find files to print. Although some came on card. Creality slicer IS Cura slicer, and works good. I've read about others setting up Lot's of different software,,, but I've not gotten that deep yet. Good luck!
I was going to buy a 3-d printer a few years but I thought the price would fall and the tech would optimize. The time is now and this is the unit to start off with. I do Paintless Dent Repair and am planning on prototyping some glue tabs, what would you recommend for ultimate tinsel strength? How about resin printing? Great video I'm even more excited to get mine!!
I just received my S1 today…my first printer! I did a lot of head scratching trying to figure out where the spare microswitch went. Thanks to you, I found out it is simply a spare. So my printer is now fully assembled. Tomorrow I will level the bed (paper method) then I’ll power it up. Thank you! Your video answered many questions.
Great video! I‘ve got mine a few weeks ago and this is the first video I've seen were you can hear someone talking right next to the machine. Sadly mine isn't quiet at all. Its probably the same or even a bit louder than my previous ender 3v2. The Fans are really going. Can it be a difference between 110 and 230 volts? I‘m running it here in Germany with 230. Greetings!
Thanks so much for your kind words and support, I do appreciate it! I don’t know enough about electricity to say if that’s what it is, but I suppose that’s entirely possible. Sorry I can’t be any more help than that.
Thanks so much for you kind comments and thank you for watching! I don’t see this specific color on Amazon at this point, but it’s Sunlu Green PLA+ (they might be calling it PLA Pro now). Thanks again and happy printing!
From what I gather, the probe performs the standard procedure of creating a bed mesh which gets saved into memory on the main board. It didn’t output any measurements directly on the display from what I saw, but if you load up Pronterface on a computer and hook it up to the printer, I’m pretty sure you can run an M420 command (marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html) to output the current mesh. Honestly though, in my experience, it’s been sufficient enough to do the paper-level method to get your bed reasonably level and then run the bed level procedure from the display and everything has been printing very nicely. YMMV! I like to re-run the bed level procedure about once a week or any time I switch nozzles or build surfaces. Other than that, I haven’t needs to really touch it at all. Thanks for watching!
I’m good with the sensor being loose as it goes left and right, but I would prefer that it remains fixed as it goes up and down. 200+ hours of print time as this point as-is with no trouble. But with that said, I do appreciate your comment and I appreciate you watching. Happy printing!
@@plasticmakesperfect5863 I have one of those printers too. Got it yesterday and it it together pretty fast and did the auto level, z offset and from SD card. Perfect print. I am very happy with that printer. Even got profiles in the regular cura, matter control, and Prusa slicer.
Hi, did you have to adjust any of the knobs or was the BLTouch enough to make good prints ? I'm struggling a lot to find the "perfect spot" with my ender 3 and wonder if this one could be better since I don't want tinkering, I just want to print. Thanks !
Compared to an Ender 3, I definitely think the S1 has much less tinkering involved. I did have to make minor adjustments to the bed-leveling knobs, but very minor. If you’re familiar with using paper to tram your print head to the bed, even getting it reasonably close is fine and then do a bed-level with the CR-Touch and that should be sufficient to get a really clean first layer. You might need to fine-tune the Z-Offset during a live print to get it that last bit of cleanliness on the first layer, but compared to a stock Ender 3, this is far easier to get closer to that “perfect spot” you’re looking for. Thanks for watching!
I got one too. All I did was put together, ran auto level, adjusted z offset, then printed. Worked perfect. I even sliced from Prusa slicer and printed perfect
Thanks for the video, I ordered mine in the end of December and am waiting for the shipment, all other reviewers that I've watched are stating the obvious and are not nearly as good as your review. You are on a right track.
That really means a lot, thank you very much. I try to go over the same information I’d want to know if I was researching one. I know I miss things here and there, but I do try to capture as much as I can. Thanks again and stay safe!
Thanks, I agree it’s supposed to wiggle but I don’t think it’s supposed to flop around like a wet noodle though. I think for as high up as it’s mounted, it should be able to have more rigidity than it does. For the Z-axis offset, I actually didn’t have to adjust it. I ran the bed level and it offset itself at -2.39 and it’s basically dead on there. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!
How is the noise compared to the ender 3 V2? A video could be helpful. For me the print quality with the ender 3 was already acceptable. While the dual z-axis and the direct extruder and the abl are three major upgrades for me the printer must also be silent from stock. The fans on the ender 3 V2 are to loud for me. Artillery understood the point with silent printer and the noise of their printer is acceptable from stock. I don't want to spend much extra money to have a silent printer.
I don’t have my v2 anymore to do a direct comparison, but the S1 is the quietest printer (fans included), that I’ve had to date. It’s not silent, but it’s certainly quieter than my 5, 5+, and CR6-SE. I apologize that I’m not much help beyond that. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching. =)
@@plasticmakesperfect5863 I appreciate your answer and the video. I expect that the CR6-SE has similar noise emissions like the V2. For me the V2 is at the upper limit from the noise level but I haven’t jet upgraded it with noctua fans. Is the S1 noticeable more silent than the CR6-SE thet I could work in the same room as the printer without to have to upgrade the fans? Can you tell which were the loudest fans? I hope those in the power supply and for the mainboard because these would be easier to exchange, and I don’t want to make the Extruder heavier with other fans.
I’m so sorry to hear that, perhaps it was a QC issue with your batch? I ended up giving mine to my brother who has been going almost non-stop with it for months now and hasn’t even needed to replace the nozzle on it. I am sorry for your experience =(
This versus XTZL3D S1 which seems better to you, I was about to buy a "voxelab aquila" which is a copy of the ender 3 v2 but for a lower price, the XTZL3D S1 is about 20 dollars more expensive in my country than the voxelab aquila but I think I like the XTZL3D S1 more since it has two z axes and also the filament sensor. My question is if with these improvements it actually prints better than an ender 3 v2
I have to decide quickly since the xtzl3d offer will only be there for a few days and then it will rise in price so the difference will no longer be only 20 dollars and I do not think I can afford a greater difference
This versus XTZL3D S1 which seems better to you, I was about to buy a "voxelab aquila" which is a copy of the ender 3 v2 but for a lower price, the XTZL3D S1 is about 20 dollars more expensive in my country than the voxelab aquila but I think I like the XTZL3D S1 more since it has two z axes and also the filament sensor. My question is if with these improvements it actually prints better than an ender 3 v2
Ehhh better is sort of subjective. What’s better for me might not be better for you. I’d imagine that the Aquila will have a stronger user base than the XTZL3D, but I can’t say for sure. I feel that my experience with printers at this point is strong enough that I would prefer to have the Dual Z and filament sensor rather than the community support, but that’s just my personal opinion. I hope this helped a little, thanks for watching!
Yep, you’re absolutely right. I didn’t get a chance to update this video and I learned a lot since I made it so I did miss that originally. Thanks so much for calling that out and thank you for watching!
