Hey, did you have double springs on both exhaust and intake? Curious because one of my exhausts had a single spring while the other had a double spring like yours in this video.
So helpful. This worked great for me today on a 2018 Husqvarna FC450. I appreciate you posting, I had watched about 5 other videos and this was the easiest option. Thanks.
Great work and nice music taste! What is the method of instaling circlip/pin lock with socket and pillers? You push circlip with socket and squeeze it with pillers? This is one of the hardest part of top end rebuild as for myself who does it once every two years.
Without proper tool the circlip part is always the hardest part. I finally gave up and ordered the KTM tool. See it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1UohmGV5ys.html
Thanks for reply. Installing with KTM tool looks so effortless. I was thinking about buying it but went the old, cheap but scary way. I'm right now in the process of rebuilding engine of my FC 250 for a second time. First time I was STRUGGLING with circlip installation and was really stressing about it. This time I used straight tool pick and it went really easy, I actually suprised myself. @@ssse3123
Is it possible to have the crank 360° out, even if crank got locked while assembling and cams pointed right? I have a no start situation, have fuel/spark/compression. I wonder if it only sparks every 720° or is it wasted spark (every 360°)? I'm a little stuck right here
great video. Does the mid valve control the rebound? Is there any oil associated with that? Or when doing this rebuild you just refill the inner tube and outer like normal?
Hi .. nice video really... can I ask you the clam diameter needed to take apart the cartridge?Can not measure now my own,but gonna need soon to fix new lowering kit.Thanks
Thanks for the quick reply! Did you took notes on what you changed? I’m messing around with the shimstack as well but due to bad weather there is not much testing possible. Have you tried to change the „bleed“ face shims on the rebound side?
Really nice process. Sweet. A couple things that I do differently that make life easier is to let the nitro out after the spring is removed and measure the piston height before disassembly w my vernier caliper then write that measurement down and you can always check it later then I drain the oil through the HS adjuster which takes half the time. I made a thread in rod that is machined smooth about 60mm worth that threads in the nitro can and you can preset the nitro piston height during bleeding so you don't have to kill your shoulders and back trying to push the piston back in. All preset and saves a painful step. XC shocks require mad force to set the piston. I did have a tool machined to bleed the shocks through the HS adjuster instead like yamaha which works better in my opinion and there is faster bleed and never a bubble as you can see into the body. I then submerge the adjuster in oil then top off the HS port and insert it facing horizontal. In your case I would make sure that shock is fully upright and the bleed port topped off and level before setting that screw in. I really loved your video and process.
book calls for lactate 5910 between the engine case and cylinder but I have seen multiple videos of people putting on no sealant in that spot. what do you think I should do?
@@ssse3123 do you think it would be fine without it? After seeing a few videos of just sealing the top cover I’m thinking of just sealing that but also don’t want to pull it apart again
Hey, great vid. Have mine assembled minus the valve cover. Timing marks are still where they should be. When I rotate the engine by hand, the timing chain gets a loose spot. Should this go away when there’s oil pressure ? Wondering if it is normal. Oem tensioner. Thanks
