A youtube channel dedicated to the Do It Yourselfer pioneers out there. We will post videos showing the repair and modification of anything mechanical we can get our hands on, promoting independence and no fear in taking on the unknown challenges.
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By any chance you think the Patriot Block Hugger Headers will fit this application with the space and trans setup ? I am trying to figure out what headers to order to mount to my 7.5L RV setup, still the same E150-350 space to work with, then have a custom dual exhaust made into them. Main reason was make power and better mpg from allowing the engine to breath better. Anyone willing to chime in would be great to chop it up and see what y’all think. I know Doug Thorley makes them for a C-Class 7.5 setup but it runs into a single exhaust and I wanted to go into a dual side exhaust to gain some mpg. Sounds insane but another fellow ran a similar setup and gained 2 mpg, so I’m trying to extract the best fuel economy I can with gaining power as well. I’ll post the link for the headers, maybe some of y’all better mechanics who know way more than me can chime in with your opinions.
One is patriot other is Sanderson. Both block huggers which I assume I’m going to need with the little space I have, also I have 4x4 Quigley Trac trans setup as well, so I know there will only be a few headers that will fit my setup. I really don’t want to put the stock exhaust manifolds back on. Minus well do them now while I have the heads off next week. This video is amazing. I watch it every night going to sleep. Thanks so much for taking the time to publish this video, I am your number one fan now
Dude you guys are warriors, that is no simple task, I’m about to pull my 7.5L Ford engine and do the same. Full gasket overhaul and whatever else that goes along with it. Definitely some grunt work and back breaking maneuvering. Nice work y’all 🔥🔥🔥
Fucking legend video. colleague ran van over a sign, and reversed to get off of it, and smashed this assembly. Yer video, I think has set me straight. Much oblige.
I have '55's and a '50. The brakes changed in 1955. I've had to make parts to replace the brake toggle pivot pin on one of my tractors. You fellows sure got your share of surprises in the process of fixing that bearing. Thank you for letting me ride along with you both.
what's the rule of thumb on knowing if the spring is gonna hit you in the face or not? Just by how easy it waggles with the screw driver? I'm sittin here with 1998 E150 shock off... jack under that same bolt as you under the spring... then dropped the jack so now seems like all tension is being taken by the sway bar... but I don't know how much tension is there. Shaking the shock and it does not seem loose. seems like I ought to start over and take the sway bar out first and then I would know when there is not tension for sure.
Yeah, I suppose you could pull the sway bar loose. I guess there would be no guarantees. The general consensus should be that if the spring can be moved by hand, or by foot, or by medium hammer taps in combination with not being too compressed (meaning an entire coil, one revoulution, not more than an inch or two from a factory spring), it should be safe to take out any way you can without a spring compressor or safety chains. If it's gotta give less than an inch from overall factory length, then it doesn't have enough tension left to cause any damage or even move out of its own way. I say if it makes people comfortable, tie a rope or a chain around it under the truck so it can only go up or down, not out.
I have a class B rv on a 2006 E350 chassis and my rooftop AC went out and I had to run the engine AC. It was a campground in Louisiana and it was hot. I had to to put cardboard over the headlights because the DRL were bothering the other campers. I’ll try this! Let you know 🤞🏼 Awesome video!
The problem is located behind the steering wheel. More precisely, between the driver's seat and the steering wheel. It is a common problem but Ford cannot fix it, nor can anyone else.
I'm sorry, but its really irritating when people don't focus on, & get right to the task at hand. Skip the back stories of the crown vic that you're dropping a 460 into, or what the F series pick up had in 1970 that you drove to your moms 3rd wedding to Bill Birditzman. AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!! 😫
Crager Soft 8, 16x8. You can get them in black or chrome. The trim rings are stainless steel 2x16, made for a Chevy Impala. The lug nuts are cheap gorilla lug nuts. The lug pattern is 8x6.5. The backspacing for the rims is 4.5. The rims on the back are 16x10, with a 4.5 backspace.
Helpful vid guys!👍 We have a 2012 E350 xlt with close to 700,000 km and original 5.4l and she runs like a top, I have a question: when we start it, it runs high, like 1500-1800rpm, then settles down to 550-600rpm, when it warms up I would guess. Is that normal? Thank you 👍
It depends on the temperature outside and the resistance of the coolant temp sending unit. We call that a closed loop until it warms up. Then the temp sending unit tells the computer to go into an open loop. If you're old enough to remember carbureted cars and trucks, we remember this as the choke flap.on startup. Idles up, then drops down. On the Ford fuel injection, sometimes the temp sending unit, especially an aftermarket one, will keep the engine revving up a little too high for a little too long. When this happens, I just change the temp sending unit.
To be honest. Am pleased with this video. I have 99cam v6 but with a messed up vacs. But this video will help me rearrange them back to factory settings
So i’ve been researching swapping a 2wd to 4wd and was wondering if i would have to drop the trans to change the output shaft or if i’d be able to just take everything off while it’s still in the truck and swap the output shafts? i noticed y’all had the trans out and on its front so i was just wondering
Thank you, i spent hours looking for this part/loction, part info. I have Chilton repair manual and no mention of this part/location other then stating there are two temp sensors. You have to wonder wtf everybody other then you and one other left this info out.
Jugs and pistons all over Amazon and has been for years. Before I would get them from Jack's Small Engines or who ever had what I needed. Hard to beat $27 for Jug, piston, roll pin, sparky plug, gaskets and a fuel filter-to my door I use a small filter wrench(band) to compress pistons. Ring tool at Harbor Fr for $12
good job old school! but certs and licenses were not a waste of time, your not making money working on your own van but im making money with this epa cert. Twas about the only comment i found a little ignorant. plus your just guessing bro lol just get some 100 dollar manifolds and stop guessing. otherwise , great video, i could keep up but only because i work on sealed systems as part of my job, i dont think this is actually going to be very friendly to most DIYers just simply because they will look at it and take it straight to some auto mechanic that smells money as soon as that car hits the lot.
So after running bad gas nd piston got messed up so i changed it and changed cylinder, fuel lines and carb including fuel filter and blower still wont start, i changed carburetor, after running bad fuel it ceased and i couldnt retract recoil starter, but after changing cylinder and piston, i can retract recoil starter but engine wont start. At some point it started few times and then dies real quick. Any help?
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284ok so I have a small block bolt pattern e4od 4wd and a big block 2wd e4od so I would have to switch the internals and tail end over to the big block to make the big block 4wd ?
@@dylansmith3628 So what you want to do is take a 460 E4OD and make it 4x4 from a 5.0 4x4 E4OD? I don't see why you can't switch the internals... Do a little bit more research, I would. They also may vary slightly from year to year. It sounds like you just need the transfer case and the output shaft from the little block trans and the rest of the internals from the big trans. should be put right back into the big case after the output shaft is changed. Count your bolts, pay attention to your patterns. Everything should be the same except the bellhousing bolt pattern.
Both of them came off, through the front, the back, and the fender wells you can access the bolts. If it's too close to the A/C box on the passenger side, don't forget you can lower the engine by removing the motor mount bracket. But it wasn't necessary for me.
Just did mine today on a 2011 E350. Few tips: 1) unscrew the radiator overflow tank and swing it forward to get better access to the top of the gear. 2) remove the hose from the steering pump that goes up to the reservoir and pull it up and fold it out of the way. This drains the fluid and gives you another access point to the top of the gear. 3) get one hell of a puller or heat the pitman arm with a torch to expand it to get it off. This was the hardest part for me. I built a quick press and a 3 ton jack was not enough without the torch. 4) MOST IMPORTANT!! This is a quite a job - so buy a good gear. A gear that lasts 2 years is junk to start with. Buy a premium brand such as Motorcraft or EDELMANN. I installed an EDELMANN and never expect to touch it again. Those crappy ones at the local auto parts store save you money - but you'll pay in labor - unless you enjoy changing gears like it's some standard maintenance item. A good gear should easily last over 100K miles. Mine was at 150K and not totally wrecked at that point. Also - check those O-rings. One of mine fell off during removal and I would have missed it altogether if it was not for this video. I found it up against the tire!
