Is really shame that ford won’t do anything for their customers! My neighbor got a Toyota pick up truck is a 2005 and Toyota did a recalled on the frame because they were rusting, just like ALL FORD F150. My is a 2007 and it is rusting so bad is not even funny. Ford should step up and help their customers and stop pretending they don’t have a problem with their frame rusting real bad.
It’s been a minute since I did one but to DIY it would probably be around $800. That’s including the price of the bed floor assembly with out shipping as I was able to pick this up from local distributor, bed bolts, and consumables like grinding & cut off wheels, welding wire & gas.
There are a lot of 70's Fords sitting in people's backyards, and they have no clue what they are worth. Just have to cruise the backroads in the Southwest. I live in a tiny little village in New Mexico, and there are a lot of them here.. Even 60's Ford pickups. I know a guy who's daily driver is a 67. . On the flip side, my '78 Bronco that I got when I was 18, that hasn't driven since 2000, its still sitting in my parents backyard in New England. Parked mainly because of rust.. And 24 years later, the floor pans on that Bronco are not as bad as those. . But... anything that is anywhere near solid is going to go for a big big dollar amount, and you're still going to have to replace all that stuff.. $500 truck, have to replace the floor pans.. $5000 truck that hasn't rusted through yet.. Still have to replace the floor pans.
use what you HAVE especially if money is an issue... and if you have the skills to fix what you have.. why not ? I have ppl say the same to my 76 Jeep J10, and 5 months later its on the road and one of THEE only ones on the road or thee only one on the road where i live..
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 Those Wagoneer based pickups are sweet.. My first vehicle was a hand me down 78 Wagoneer from my Dad.. "If you can make it run, you can drive it". . What a mess those AMC's were. Parts from everywhere. AMC block of course, but I had a Chrysler distributor, Ford ignition box, GM ignition switch and key. GM calipers machined for chrysler brake hoses, and a GM TH400 tranny that was cast and machined for a Ford starter. . I was a huge fan of the cardboard glove box in the center that had a habit of falling out of the dashboard. And the cardboard door panels.. . I loved that Jeep. My Dad had even found a set of the Levi seats.. The Levi themed AMCs were disgusting as a whole, but the seats were sweet.. They were just blue jean material, denim, and at every stitch intersection there was a Levi button. Double row stitches, gold thread, just like on the jeans. They were actually pretty cool. . My Dad sold it to an acquaintance in 94ish. I had moved onto a Bronco. He did the body over really well. Fixed all the little problems, got rid of the Levi seats :( but put in Cadillac seats, full power everything, I got to drive it once, it was really nice. It was the color it was supposed to be, not bondo and primer and rust holes. . April 15th 2001, I had just bought a 3 year old Dodge half ton (I'm still driving her) and I had to drive by that guy's house on my way home, and there is my old Jeep in his front yard with a "For Sale" sign.. And I was completely tapped out from just buying a new truck, I was so mad. . That was such an awesome truck, I can only imagine how awesome it would be in pick up truck form.
And I knew you were from Pennsylvania dude I could hear it in your voice😂😂😂 I grew up in Pennhills bro Pittsburgh now live in Connellsville by Uniontown.
I would say it all depends on the quality of the metal you’re working with if it’s too rusty and it’s taking too long to clean it to get a good weld from using the gas then I would say use some gas flux cord like I just did with my truck lol but if you got all the time in the world, make it grind away and use the bottle Cuz lol my man haha
I started out using only flux but switched to MIG when I became fancy and had a little more funds available. I do prefer MIG now still use flux when it’s best and to practice.
I wish I had pictures but unfortunately not. I’m 100% confident it is holding up well. Even better with maintenance like undercoating/rust proofing inside and outside the frame.
Yeah I install these at the factory. Hammer tap it in. Pliers will bend it and taking it off the brake line will be so hard and possibly do damage to the line when you have to.
I confirmed it to be a rod bearing. Looks like an oil leak developed sometime after changing it. It got low enough to causes this. I never saw it because where compressor is but either way that’s a big oops on me.
@@user-mp5bq4gc7v they don’t have an air compressor comparable from what I saw. I would go smaller but I will occasionally run paint or undercoating guns.
Could be a seized bearing. Less than $100 to fix, if you do it yourself. You'll never know unless you pull it apart. And even if you replace it. It never hurts to have a spare.
Why are you not my neighbor right now, I have everything to do this job but hesitate, before I took off the road I put 4500 in suspension and wheels now the crap is just wasting away. Every truck I looked at also same shituation
Just take your time. It is really not too bad to do. Definitely worth putting the effort to save it then acquire today’s truck payment whether new or used.
I hear that about the payment, it’s not just in front of the leaf springs tho the whole back quarter is junk also and mid frame is questionable, You let it down on jackstands you can watch the whole thing belly down,
Probably one of the most amazing videos ive ever seen if any at all. Great work and great demonstration. Thank you so much. Makes me feel comfortable about doing it to mine if i cant get a replacement bed
@@ghettohey2388 I used a Hobart 210 MVP, 230V with .030 wire on “2” & “30”. For thinner spots I would set it at 1 & 25. Ideally I would run .023 wire on about the same settings but I was out of that.
@FullRange 4x4. Getting ready to do this with my truck. Going by your experience and when you first started doing these. How much time does this take to do. Im trying to plan this out and just wandering how long it wilk take me. Is this something that takes couple days and week to complete.
@@FullRange4x4 yeah, I understand that! I was changing the rear struts yesterday and noticed how rotted the frame was all around the toe link mounting brackets.
Question….from the southeast here but my truck goes on the beach a lot. Noticed 2 holes in my bed and two bed crossmembers eaten up pretty bad. Is it easier to just replace the whole bottom bed floor? or to do the crossmembers and patch the wholes and keep the original floor like in this video?
Depends on the condition of the inner bedside/wheel well areas and really the overall finish and look of the bed floor. I think doing a whole floor assembly is easier. If the rest of the bed pinch weld points are in good shape then that’s the ticket. It will cost more but that’s where the time and effort will come into play.
Here is another video of mine doing the whole assembly : DIY Ford F250 Superduty truck bed repair. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qp5MrfbCA0I.html
@@FullRange4x4 Thank you for the response and the video. I definitely see what you’re talking where it depends on the condition of the bed. The bed floor of my truck is similar or better than the one you did the crossmember fix on. I also wouldn’t have to fix all the crossmembers. Just the two in the center need to be replaced and the two holes are between them. I had a piece of insulation from the factory still up under the bed side and I noticed rust all around the crossmembers and I pulled down the insulation and boom rust and two holes. Must have acted like a salty sponge from beach driving.
Nice job . My 2000 F250 that I bought in 1999 the springs broke in the back and I replaced them a couple days ago but my rails are completely shot . I’ll be doing the rails before winter. I’m wishing I pulled the bed off first to make spring install easier. I liked your engine puller to lift the box . Did you have to add a bar to your lift to reach center of box ? Or did you make the lift work with original extension ?
The lift worked on shorts beds fine but I added a 1/8” tube extension for long beds. I’m doing this on gravel so I added weight since the surface is u even. I been doing it this way for about 8 years.
I have a 2013 Chevy Silverado WT that am trying to switch from drums to disc as well. Would these same parts fit? Id imagine the axle sizes shouldnt be too different? Great vid, btw !
I am not certain but the research I found before showed that 1999-2013 axle swaps for rear are something that is done. I would say it should work but triple check measurements, leaf spring perch height & width, center section to the outer axle flange and etc. If you have the option to fabricate then anything is possible ha. Thank you for the question.
@@FullRange4x4 Littleshopmfg has a drum to disc conversion kit from 02-18 so i highly suspect those years have the same measurement for the parking brake anchor. I dont want that kit though cause it uses donor parts from different 1980’s vehicles. I’ll triple check like you said cause If i can go oem as much as possible, id prefer that. Thanks for the info!
was wonder what the floor alone measures out too ? i noticed on one of your videos you had lots of measurements depending on how your doing your repair. will be doing rail replacement my self soon but thinking of doing a tread plate / diamond plate floor. I enjoy your channel
rootbeer is only GOOD, with tons of bubbles and ice cold... if its flat its horrible, and i think its bad in anything else but soda haha.. barqs is deff the best though
