I work on my own cars and motorcycles, like many of us. This channel is where I share what I'm doing and if it helps a few people, great! 1971 C3 Corvette 1978 Honda CB750. 2001 BMW e46 M3 2004 MazdaSpeed Miata 2007 Harley Streetglide
Take it out clean and look at seat in brake bottom and inspect bleeder seat and look for witness marks for seat if a non shinny area doesn't appear its got a low spot you'll need to dress and work shinny area back until you get a ring around entire perimeter of cone seat when installed. Patience will get it I'd work it with a dremel and sand disk.
i have a 2007 Street Glide with 96 ci engine and just turned 47000 mi.... i juat came back from a 700 mi trip.... I use it for touring and long trips .... it's loud but noy obnoxius and sounds awesme, i do clean it and shine everything everytime before i go out ... that has nothing to do with the bike or car etc. that is just my way of life and how I take care of everything i own or use. I like the new bikes (Harleys) but they are just too expensive and look like any other bike on the road just like cars nowdays, My old SG still looks awesome and turns heads, it looks like a Harley still... the new ones you can't tell them apart from an Indian or other brands, i don't need GPS, sound system or a big screen on my bike... it's too loud for music and I look at the sun location for directions.... when I ride I want to be lost! lol😂
These cars were "handmade" back in the day. You might consider using fiberglass to modify the edges of the fender instead of jerking around with the door. A couple of layers of fiberglass mat built up oversize a bit and then sanded down to make the gap the way you want isn't that hard to do. These parts were laid up individually and not stamped like sheet metal. Corvettes were actually designed with the idea that they would last about ten years. Nobody ever thought they would become valuable classics. However, it is your car so obviously do what you think is best.
@@louislazarus9253 Yes, i’ve noticed that a lot of people will add to the door edges to make the gaps uniform and tighter. I decided to leave mine the way they were because the door adjustment made them within acceptable specs. I don’t mind if it has a little bit of the original handmade look.
Hi, I've enjoyed your videos, reminds me of the '70 convertible I restored 10 or so years ago. I've got a '69 t-top I'm doing now. Just wanted to highlight, in case you missed it, that the cross brace which supports the dash pad is still not fitted, you might want to make sure your wire re-routing also clears it. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment. Which brace is that? Where? There is one brace that comes out from the pinch weld on the Right side. Should there be one on the Left too?
@@thedrivewayC3 I can't attach a picture here, but the brace runs from left to right just under where the A pillars meet the main body. It's two pieces that bolt together and bolt to the sides with two bolts each. It's also what the dash pad screws to, otherwise nothing would support all the weight of the dash fascias and instruments. If you have an AIM its on page J95 (at least it is on the '69 version)
@@brockbenson4603 On the 71, there’s just one support to the right of center that sticks out at a 90 degree angle from the firewall. The lower dash pads are supported by the side screws, steering column, center gauge cluster, and dash pad. My sense is that it all works as one once everything is screwed together.
Dreading all this with my 68 wet with vintage air. Just don’t see how everything is going to fit behind the center gauge cluster with all that duct work and wiring. Any tips?? Thankful you take the time to make these videos.
If it gets warmed up, the ducts get pretty soft. Try to wait for a hot day or use a blow dryer to heat them up. The two center ducts will fit. The defrost duct can run under the right lower dash panel.
I spent over an hour trying to put a new cable in the sleeve and swore everything in the book. Thank you for recommending filing it to a point. This was incredibly way to difficult to replace. Thank you for the video
The clock is on the CLK-CTSY fuse which feeds the interior courtesy lights, cigar lighter, power antenna, alarm horn. That circuit has 12b power at all times.
Very nice job, having done this, I agree it is not easy. The thing that makes C3s interesting and hard to work on is that they are all a little different in terms of assembly. I enjoy your videos and honesty about your projects. Keep up the good work.
Good , I did the same thing last summer and man it’s was hard to line up the holes for the screws due to the dynamat and dynamat extreme. Great product but very sticky and thick . Good luck . Thanks for the great videos
I’m sure you’re enjoying that extra heat blocking, but putting these old cars back together, especially with some OEM and some 3rd party parts is tough. I’ve had to mod nearly every single component, but at least it’s getting done.
What are the fiber optic indicator lights for exactly? Do they light up when the specific light it on or are they supposed to tell you when one is burned out? I’ve always wondered
I just watched Luis’ video and it shows the process he uses for inserting the slider. It’s not difficult and I’ll probably put a little graphite on the edges
What was your process for repainting the fiber optic lenses trim plate? Did you sand it down to metal and then repaint? Which paint did you use? Thanks!
Strip the old paint off; Scuff with steel wool or scuff pad; paint with VHT Satin Black “Rollbar and Chasis.” Use a block with a shop towel wrapped around it to wipe wet paint off from the raised areas (trim and lettering). I spray a small amount of solvent on the paper towel, then clean off the paint. Do about three coats. If you get fisheyes, let dry & sand a little, then repaint.
I think that is correct. When I replaced my console it looked the same. Big issue I had was making sure the black plastic cover for the slot tracked correctly. Vette76 has an excellent video on this. Well worth watching. Nothing fits very well in particular if you have added insulation to the floor.
Enjoyed your video. I'm on the fence about rebuilding my tach drive distributor or doing the electric conversion. The electric seems less expensive. My project is similar to yours, a non original ride. Although, mine is a '70 coupe. Wondering if you could help me out in deciding? Thanks, Tom
I look at it this way: It’s easy (and often cheeper) to replace the original parts with modern ones; however, at a certain point, the car becomes something else. Personally, I find the original workings to have a certain “charm” and value, even if they are “outdated” and “inferior.” I’m not trying to build a “performance” vehicle, just have something fun to drive that still has an original vibe. I did replace some of the “hidden” components, such as the old heater/AC, front and rear suspension, and radio. Points work just fine on these cars. A rebuild should last a long time, especially given that I’ll put fewer than 1000 miles per year on it. Hope that helps.
Good suggestion. I also got a couple wire connections/colors wrong in this video. The Purple goes to ACC power and the tan is for backlight (tied into the dash lights). There’s a small grey wire for the programming.
