DIY EVERYTHING! Basement Renovation, Home Repairs, Custom Builds, Outdoor Care, Gardening, Orchards, etc., with an emphasis on saving your wallet and sustainability. Recycle, upcycle, MANCYCLE!
One of the great things about DIY (doing it yourself) is the freedom to operate outside of the constraints of industry norms and getting your own job done on your own terms. This vertical install allowed me to avoid butt joints. That’s a win. Send me your questions if you would like to learn more :)
Hey, thanks for your video. I found it actually looking for the answer to a different question, but maybe you know the answer, I was trying to wire a standard 3-prong plug to 14/2 gauge solid wire. However, for the two plugs I bought the instructions say "STRANDED COPPER WIRE ONLY!". It is not clear to me why only stranded copper wire, but I tried to find plugs for solid copper wire without success. Any Ideas? (By the way, I love Wago connectors!)
Hey friend, thanks for checking out the video. Man, I’ve never seen plugs for stranded copper wire only. All standard plugs I’ve seen work perfectly for 14/2 Romex. Silly question here, but sometimes the writing is pretty tiny on those plugs. Is it possible it says “standard copper wire” instead of “stranded copper wire”? If so, your 14/2 will work just fine.
Just use a wet rag to clean excess on the inside lip. Store what’s left with a fine layer of water. Always have a bucket of water handy to clean tools too.
Bruh, the point of the video was the time-saving magnet tool that sits in the junction box and lets you skip the precision measurement on the front end of hanging drywall. The cheap cutting tool I used (oscillating tool purchased from Harbor Freight 15 years ago for $30 and worth every penny), was definitely NOT the point of the video.
Handling a 10 x 4 plasterboard is hard enough. Trying to carry a 12ft into a building and upstairs considerably more difficult, anything longer; impossible.
Roto zip, faster. Back in the day, I would wet the edge of the box with some spit. Hold the sheet rock in place then pull it away and the backside of the sheet rock would have a wet spot in the shape of the box given you the exact area to cut out.
It is virtually impossible to NOT have butt joints somewhere. Hang it horizontally for ease of mudding. Think about the 'old days' of plaster and lath. Think of the drywall as the 'lath'. One could also consider the first coat of plaster aver the lath as the 'drywall as well. Additional coats of plaster were the 'finish'. For a totally smooth wall, the plasterers would use a brush to 'splash' water onto the surface and dry trowel the surface. Hanging horizontally reduces the amount of 'high' work as well as 'low' work. The majority of mudding will take place at about 4 feet off the ground. With the occasional butt seam going to the ceiling and to the floor (make sure you 'stagger' these joints!!). For the final finish to avoid 'waves' get a large pan and a wide squeegee (yes a bit more cost to the job, but well worth it even if you never do mudding again.). Mix regular mud with water to a pancake batter and roll it on the wall with a heavy roller (use an extension pole to make it really easy) and then smooth it with the squeegee. It takes some practice to not get messy, but it works very well. After the mud is dry, a very light sanding will do (I also recommend renting a power sander).
Another approach is to cut a 1" strip of the paper off each side of the butt joint. It leaves a 2" recessed space about the same thickness as tape. Blends quite easily.
Here in Sweden drywall is quite common. We put stips of paper (before it was fiberglass strips) on the beveled joints to keep them from cracking the mud and wallpapper. Is this something that is used in USA?
This does not even make sense. First you have to follow the furring. Next unless your room is less than 12 x 12 you will have butt joints. Always factory edge to factory edge when you can. The rest a finisher can take care of. I mean when you patch a hole. The idea is to not have it noticed. Hopefully you can do that or hire one.The hack jobs I've seen, made beautiful by a good finisher. Just hang it the best you can.
Sometimes, the factory buts are not square. Possibly because the machine is out. Not always, though. The paper may not be as sound on the factory end too.
We have had trouble with our contractor and electrician about spacing can lights. I think both of them need to watch this, thank you so much for providing the math!
Couldve probably mentioned the factory edges are slightly tapered so as to have filler and tape and still be totally "flat" with no seam lines visible after painting 😢
I'm really surprised that plasterboard manufactures have not made custom boards to have feathered edges on all 4 sides. I would pay a premium for boards like this.
