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@@LFSIDIndonesiaOld if one of your headphones drivers (left or right one are connected wrong the in phase signal will sound out of phase and vice versa. In phase will sound centered (mono), out of phase will sound like it’s 3d and comes from everywhere. So the in/out of phase signals will never sound the same but you’ll know that your headphones are out of phase if the out of phase signal sounds cenetered and the in phase signal sounds like it comes from everywhere. When your headphones are out of phase all music you play will have an undefined stereo image and weird.
This helped me confirm that my ground loop isolator indeed flips phase. If anyone is curious I used a plugin called A1StereoControl-x64 along with equalizer apo to flip my phase to the correct phase. That's in case you are looking for a no cost way to fix phase issues.
I will never again buy anything coated with rubber after my experience with a Radio Shack emergency radio which was not needed to be used for years and then when needed, a sticky mess! I first used straight white vinegar on a paper towel which worked a little but not enough, so then used hand sanitizer which is 66% alcohol on a very soft old cloth, that worked well and much faster. I would have finished with silicone or Armor All but didn't have it so put a little WD40 on the cloth and wiped the radio. During this process no black stuff came off on the rag but the sticky came off. Looks and feels fine now ... but will the rubber continue to degrade?
I feel your pain, and I'll be wary myself now, but it seems we can't avoid it all. For example, I have some admittedly-old headphones whose _cord_ has become very sticky. That really surprised me. A cord is always going to have to be flexible, so it's always going to be something like rubber or plastic. Of course, wireless is one solution there, but I don't think Bluetooth even existed when I bought those otherwise-excellent headphones.
@@MikeAnn193 avoiding sticky rubber is next to impossible I fear, it’s not the rubber itself getting sticky, it’s the adhesive to make something ‘soft touch’. Some cords will have this and will become sticky, some are plain rubber/plastic and won’t become sticky. Also some rubber can just become hard and break or deteriorate.
@@Detroit-Berlin you need to rhytmicaly twist offset and freq knob and then you get "delayed, repeating, phased" output, repeats can be rhythmicaly sculpted with those 2 knobs. I am inputing simple 8 step seq through plaits. But first you need to "lock a harmonic phase in"
you didn’t have to watch it fully to know the best method, could have read the description and used the timestamp to skip to the part where I show the best product to remove the rubber. This is a real-time video showing how long it takes.
I used label remover I got from maplin few years ago on my headphones this spray is for sticky stuff I spray a cloth and went to work on these headphones and yer it took it straight off I had to work at it / it’s now like the sticky crap was not on there in the first place nice a smooth this was plastic and I no what went sticky it’s lacquer from when there new saying that these were new in the package it was the hot summers we have had over the years I had new radios walkie talkies do the same and way label remover did it easy and these headphones were very sticky
@@Detroit-Berlin hi my friend. Yer your video was good and if I never watched it I probably would not of thought to use the label remover iv got all I no is this stuff iv got soon took it off so cheers my friend.
@@sselvatico Thanks 🙏 they are two different beasts, one is stereo the other not, apart from that they have their own sound. SEM sizzles more, A121 is more Moog’ish and round. They’re both beautiful, if you want to go really dirty and resonant maybe the A121 will be better, if you’re looking for a nice and precise Oberheim sound go for the SEM 👍
@@Detroit-Berlin Thank you very much! I am actually looking for a sweet stereo filter to process various things and other synths. I was considering 2xsem with external control as per video of Tim Shoebridge but then I saw the A121 and I liked the extra control. I would love to hear them side by side!
Great video, actually this DA ( and AD I think but need to check ) mesures better than most of the 3 to 10x more expensive ones we see in every studios. Also RME support is great, their drivers are best in class and they keep updating firmwares.
I find it is helpful to apply the solvent to a small area and then quickly cover the area with aluminium foil for maybe 10 to 20 seconds. Then remove and wipe quickly and firmly with a paper towel. This gives the solvent time to penetrate deeper. I also recommend doing this in a safe outdoor area because of the vapour and the fire risk working with such volatile chemicals. I agree about using appropriate gloves too.
may i ask you something more general about quantizers? Does it have sense to have different modules quantizers in a system? i mean if you set them on the same scale and key root of course they can be ok but can different scales be "compatible" (sound good i mean)? of course here is a question regarding learning basic musical theory which i will try to dig a bit more and i know you can also work with atonal things, dissonances and so on.... I ordered a Quad Quantizer 2 of tenderfoot electronics and there is like 44 scales so i was wondering if is worth to keep also my old doepfer a156 dual quantizer which has only few scale options...
@@LazarusGordon the doepfer is simple and hands-on, really suited for performance, I would keep it. I’m not familiar with the module you describe but it sounds less one knob per function and more press multiple buttons to achieve this or even with a menu to go through. The advantage of the doepfer quantiser is that it is simple. So I would / keep use them both. Some scales will sound good together, some not. It all depends on the notes they share. What you possibly could do is use the doepfer for a quick arpeggio and transpose it in the scale of the other quantiser
@@Detroit-Berlin Corrected a typo in my post (I forgot the 'not', but you got what I meant). Thnx. I will be trying it out on a alti-variometer that's gone all sticky this WE.
I trigger the oscillator of a Crave with a 960 sequencer. Where do I put the A-156? Would it be ok to go from the 960 to the cv in of the A-156 and from its output to the oscillator?
@@BlueSB017 with the knobs 2x doepfer offset generators in a 42hp panel with big knobs, and 2 42hp blanking panels with springs from the spring reverbs and a hole to access them
Thanks. I just bought a replacement driver for my dt770 and soldered it together. but the connector design has changed and i wasnt sure it was connected the right way cause it felt like there was something off. comparing it to some other headphones confrmed that it seems like i must swap them arround.
In cas e it's not a phase issue, if you only swap one driver and the other has had a lot time to burn in and maybe worn out, there's a chance it will never give a good stereo image.
@@Detroit-Berlin that might be an additional thing to consider. I already had to solder a small resistor to the other cause the resistance wasnt the same . 84 on the old one and 94 on the new. I know its not the same as them having the actual same impedance but they felt a lot more centered after that but still hard to localise. If im not satisfied with correcting the phase, ill probably change the other aswell. These have served me for like 15 years without much issue and at this point i could have just gotten newer ones cause i messed up the first replacement driver. On of those 0.01mm wires just came off never to be seen again
I have been watching your Doepfer videos for the last 12 months and had no idea of your full setup! Great stuff! Also, I had no idea you were a NiN / Front 242 head (as am I!)
@@DexterSkelter I would highly advise against acetone since its very abrasive. Denatured alcohol or fuel are way more gentle products and do the job better.
I am wondering what are the health implications on keep using the sticky rubber/plastic vs. "DIY mods" with gasoline or WD40. IPA and 85% alcolohol feel like safer, but in the end what's with the actual plastic and with plastic softeners etc. that can propagate to the user. Some of the original coating may be for a reason -- but sticky coating probably is not doing it's job.
The coating that gets sticky is to give equipment a nice look and soft touch feel, over time it gets sticky when the adhesive is getting soft again. Removing the stickyness has no health complications compared to if the object had never been coated, plastic is just plastic. The only health complications you could get is everything tied to doing the technique in a non ventilated room and/or without gloves etc. I also would advice against keeping plastics you eat or drink from that got sticky ion the inside, I would just throw them away.
@@MrKenstar2 many people seem to be happy with my video, but anyway thanks for letting me know you’re a sad person. If you think you wasted time you wasted more by making a comment like this. Stay away and try to be happy for a change.
Metho is good. I also have good success with enzyme based laundry detergent and warm water, and also for sticker residue: Eucalyptus oil. (I'm in Australia, does the rest of the world have Eucalyptus oil? 🙂?
You could also use alcohol gel, rub it on and leave it for 10 minutes and rub it off. I also have a Arturia Minibrute and the Microbrute, i'm going to make wooden panels for them. New knobs i'm going to buy online, non sticky.🙂
