ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-etQBUbWOcvk.html As you can see this mower can handle more than what you were cutting. I don't think what you were cutting is considered as extreme.
The mower comes with 12Ah batteries as a kit so you need to use 10ah or 12ah batteries to be able to take advantage of its full power. Try a single 10 ah or 12 ah battery before you write off the mower as not having enough power to deal with anything. 7.5 Ah batteries are the batteries ego recommends for the Ego select cut mower with the 1000W motor. The Select cut XP mower has a 1200w motor and comes with 10ah battery recommended. This mower has a 1600w mower so you definitely need the 10ah or 12 ah batteries if you want it to cut anything. If you don't believe me try two 2.5ah batteries and see how you go for power
@@juliacartman8819 I don’t doubt what you are saying there but it’s very odd that all the recommendations for bigger batteries are not made before purchase🤔 two 7.5Ah batteries have a combined power of 15Ah (connected in parallel) If the machine can’t utilise that in the correct manner, then that’s another design issue. Doesn’t matter if you’ve got two 12Ah batteries or 7.5, it’ll still block up but not overheat. Two 10Ah batteries that you recommend, push the overall purchase price up to over £2k. If that’s what you need to spend to make it work correctly, then that should be made perfectly clear before you get your wallet out.
@@nick1963ish That is not technically correct. That gives you longer runtime. The power comes from how many amps the battery can supply. The 7.5Ah battery can draw up to 60amps theoretically. You can test this out by running one of your 7.5 Ah batteries and see if it has similar power as running both your 7.5Ah batteries .The first thing I can think of is how good are your batteries. How old are you batteries and how much use have they had? The second thing I can think of is there is something wrong with your mower. The 2.5 Ah batteries are rated to 20amps, the 5 Ah battery is rated up to 40amps, The 7.5 Ah battery is rated up to 60amps and the 10Ah and 12 Ah batteries are rated up to 80amps. Using two 7.5Ah batteries will give you double the run time verses using one 7.5 Ah battery. It will not generate more power for the mower. I did not understand the response you got from ego ... but if they are saying the mower is performing beyond expectations I would borrow a friends gas mower and repeat the same cut in the same conditions to demonstrate the gas mower performs much better and send video to Ego and tell them to refund your money as they are full of crap. Ego claims this is the most powerful push mower period... including gas push mowers.
Hell yeah!!! One of the best sounding one i herd. Matter of fact best sounding one! Awsome video thank you! Now mayby a slight incline hill video clip fly by
I appreciate your comment but it’s not really valid. A commercial mower should deal with the scenario in my video full stop! My old mower had a single blade and dealt with anything I could throw at it. As for the recommended 10 or 12 Ah batteries, I’ve never seen that written anywhere. It’s certainly not in the sales info. When all said and done, it’s not capable of dealing with a fortnightly cut which is clearly not acceptable if you are a professional user. I’ve not tried it with wet grass yet but I’ve a fairly good idea of the outcome.
@@CA34562 if the smaller chute is the issue, then it’s poor design. When all said and done, this is a commercial grade mower. I’m not a professional, I just have a large garden and I want tools that work properly. My old mower did this and the 5300 will not. Professionals can’t be cutting only dry grass or just the top inch or two because the mower blocks, that’s just absurd. If Ego mentioned half of what you are recommending in their sales pitch, they would never sell any of these.
Great looking machine. I never liked the look of 'small tank' bikes, such as the BSA and Triumph models destined for the USA. The tank always looks like an add-on to me.
I used to own one of these in 1970. It was a fast and fun bike for the days, but had a lot of vibrations! I managed to damage the crankshaft by running a while on one cylinder to get home. That resulted in a knocking sound and a rather expensive rebuild. Then sold it. I many times regreted that decision! I wish I still had it, but in Norway there were only 3 of them at the time. Hard to find a good one these days. So nice to see one being treated as it should! Lol!
Have a look at my 67 Spitfire which has the correct front brake and forks and not one from a 71 bike. The problem getting a 190mm genuine brake is that it might cost £1000
Hi, I haven’t looked as my remit was to build a Spitfire with the best available parts of its era and whatever modern day additions to make it ride as good as it could get. Museum pieces are good to look at but that’s not for me. This has the upgraded front end with better braking, upgraded electrics and lighting so I can see better. Dry belt driven clutch which is smooth and light. Due to the upgrades and modifications, it’s a great bike to ride and it doesn’t leak a drop of oil! I do understand where you are coming from though.
I’m no expert as this is the only British bike I’ve owned. Mine has a buzz through the handlebars but no real vibration issues. That said, I bought it in boxes and had the crank balanced during the rebuild so was never able to see it running before balancing.
Had the earlier model of that 1966, fitted with amal gp2 cards 10.5 to 1 compression had to have 5 star petrol would never idle very high fuel consumption. I had to rebuild it when the fuel was discontinued due to high lead content fitted 9.5 to 1 pistons and concentric carbs, still went well but lost a lot of speed.
Nice build. Though you may already be aware, this appears to be a 1968 Spitfire. There were a bunch of A65SA bikes built with the Y suffix added: some were 1967 models with electrical upgrades, others were 1968 models in every way other than the VIN (the US model brochure for 1968 used such a bike on its cover). The way to know is that the cases differ quite a bit in 1968, including the transmission fill on the right-side case (moved to the inner timing cover) and the alternator stator mount on the left-side case. Assuming your frame matches the motor, it's likely the model year got incorrectly registered at some point in the last 50 years. In any case, happy that it's back on the road. Enjoy it and keep posting content.
Thanks for your comments👍 it’s a non matching number bike but the owners club have certified the engine and frame as 1967 Spitfire. I’m not really too worried either way though.
