Dam best video out there to address the dreaded P0101 Code! Thank you so much you saved me alot of money and pain!! I was lucky to get away with just cleaning the MAF and replacing the PCV valve with the new replacement part and then clearing the codes on a 2016 Nissan Altima SL 2.5L!! Thank God I didn't have to flash the ECM.
When you say no radio did you mean no audio or did it black out my car is currently having a problem with the radio not coming on which turns off the whole middle of the car where my ac controls are and windows and ac and the mirror car detect sensors are not working
Could I buy another brown ring that’s going around the thing I think mines just not tight enough on there nomore mines keep popping out on bumps what too do ?
When you plug in the smart IQ you are no longer in power supply mode, you are in smart charging mode. When the jumper is unplugged the unit is suppose to supply 13.6v supply, when the jumper is inserted the unit is suppose to supply 14.2v. The IQ box makes is a smart charger only, not fixed supply. It looks like the Iota does not reach the supply values of 13.4 and 14.2. I would only use this for programming with the jumper inserted to get at least the 13.5v. Mini Cooper requires supply of 14.2. Most car make require at least 13.2 and higher for programming and accurate scanning
My friend, you are very wonderful and your experience is great. I am a mechanic and I know something about electricity. I am facing a problem with my Sonata Hybrid. I did a lot of research and replaced the oil pump device as I was facing these codes P0A40, P0A41 and P0A78. What is the problem? Is it from the inverter or the coil? Please help me.
Thank you so much for sharing this video! I have been dealing with this issue for a year! I had come to the conclusion that it was the TIPM, a very expensive fix that I can't afford. I followed what you did, and that was the exact problem that I had on my 2014 Dodge Ram 1500. I laughed/cried for 5 minutes when I discovered that this was the problem. I was able to purchase the part for under $75, and had everything working in less than 15 minutes! Bless you! Thank you!
Hi, i have the check hybrid system message only, no other messages. The car starts and drives. I hooked up the obd code reader and says no codes. What's next i should try?
What up Ali , nice informative video . What chip reader is that , and where did you purchase ? Also i like that blue mat where did you find that ? Keep it up brother !
Nice work sticking with it, the other two probably do it two with different pin out or magic trick someone else tripped on. Like the comparison videos you did nice job even if you were a little biased lol
@@DallasAutoDiag I was joking with you you were pushing hard for the CG pro to do it that’s all, yoyo did a video about CG vs new VVDI multi-prog and said the multi would replace 3 of the CG products to me a I don’t care what I use as long as it can do job it doesn’t have to best or fastest just get it done. They can’t all do everything that’s why you need more than one.
there are 2 reasons why I really believed it would, first if I go by logic and compare it to the vvdi it should read it. second because the tool was recommended to me by a good trusted friend who alreay used it enought to give a good impression about it.
@@DallasAutoDiag Your first video you said a friend did it so I knew you would figure it out , think it was a plus that it didn’t work first time we all learned a little more from the failed attempts. But on xp400 there was an unlock choice you didn’t try was there a reason I don’t have the xp so I was wondering if someone tried that. The xp400 connected to pc might have more options who knows maybe someone will chime it say they did it with other two and how then we will have backup methods, good luck on future videos
Hello very nice video! I live in Bulgaria, Europe and i tried to flash my tcm on my GMC Sierra 2014. I purchased a subscription SPS for 2 hours and was 18 euros. When i download the software it downloaded me TLCSuite 2, which i think is not the installation file and when i tried to launch techline connect from the browser it gives me error UEH101: null. I waste my money. Please help me and thanks in advance!
Hi, I will not be able to help you because the process here is different than over at your country. Your best thing to do is to call customer support and ask their halp
Good video series if you try the VVDI again dropping voltage might help read it just turn it back up to write. 3.6v or 3.2v might be right. The multi-prog looks like a deal
@@DallasAutoDiag thank you! So I checked my after market radio and it’s pulling a lot of amps as well as my cluster but I still have -.164amps drawn. What do you think it could be? Sorry for asking so many questions
So mine is throwing the P1101 code I think not positive. But it has to do with the emission system. Could that be the throttle body as well? Cleaned the MAF sensor and checked all the tubing but it’s not throwing any other codes?! HELP! lol
I have a 2013 , the codes I have are bank 1 sensor 1 , replaced that then I got “running too rich” , with this it checks the engine light on and it drives rough , it stutters from stop and gos at points it stalls out completely, throttle response is also very bad, but as soon as I clear the code everything runs fine , now it won’t stay on unless my foot is on the throttle , but again if I clear the code it’ll run perfectly fine
As a technician I can say this sensors is a electronical and operated only by computer inside. MOST important thing to do after replacement to do a Zero calibration Point and make it zero before calibration. Warning if u don't do it and u overturned a steering in hope it will calibrate by itself - wrong! the sensor will be white down a code in the EPROM (u can't clean it) - steering angle sensor internal faulty. To reanimate this Angle sensor u have to Reprogram the EPROM
@@DallasAutoDiag thank you kindly. hey really quick please. i have a 2012 acadia. it stalls at idle at times not all the time. right when it stalls it says antit theft module. so i had gmc dealer replace it and it still does same thing. what am i looking at i wonder. could it be pcm. can yo give me some pointers. please. on one time i catched it trying to stall so i press on gas almost kept it running but when it stall it said anti theft again. however i though that electrical problem is cut and dry it shouldnt tried to stay running when pressing on gas right,.
This issue's been around for a while. Have a 2011 Altima, same problem. Went to the dealer, they said the MAF was bad, replaced it and reprogrammed the ECM. Light came back of around 40K miles later. I cleaned the throttle body and the light went off. I think the throttle body's are supposed to have regular maintenance. The code comes back after about a year or so, 15-20 miles but cleaning the throttle body gets rid of it.
Any idea why my '14 Escape died while I was in park with the engine running, then when I insert the key it tells me no key detected? Looking through all manner of things
@DallasAutoDiag Good morning. Yes I did. Slight different solution though. I had the car towed home, and it cranked up but would die after about ten seconds or so. All the voltages were fine inside of the fuse box. However, I found that while it was running, if I put some slight pressure on the fuse box, the car would die, and that's when I would lose voltage on the output side heading to the BCM. Turned out to be the 50A fuse heading to the BCM. Swapped the fuse and haven't had or been able to recreate the issue since. This video did help me with the general area to hunt though, so thank you!
Hi sir I have gmc 2019. Same this code coming p129F. Sir replace fuel pump but problem sme some time vehicle stert some time not strt what I do sir plz ans me
