Hi. This channel is about open access information sharing and promoting my books.
The videos and books are based on my own practical experience so they are definitely NOT low carbon armchair theorist nonsense. Any variation between reality and the videos can be put down to perception or experimental scenarios.
When you finally curl up your toes, all the information gathered over decades and stored in your head is lost, so I am putting some of it here for others to benefit.
Ads on videos are activated after the video has been live for a 6 months, for those viewers who would like to make a donation towards my costs please buy my books from the link provided here, cheers..
My friend has a totally mains electric house...i spoke to her about this. And she said....how often do we have power cuts ? Its prob once every few years for a hour or two...so she said its not worth bothering for that. I myself think more like you Andy as its best to be prepared.
You're right, they want the car scrapped as soon as possible so that you buy new. I doubt many cars built in the last 10 years will live long enough to gain historical status.
Hi, GFI is a ground fault. 2 possible sources, it the inverter or in the array. Check all you array wiring, sometimes this only happens in damp conditions. More likely is the panels are mounted on the ground or on a tin roof, cheers
I made a replacement diaphragm for my toilet siphon out of a plastic salami pack ( the sturdy base of the pack rather than the flimsy film lid). It’s been working beautifully for about four years so far.
thank you for this informative video changed the cabin filters . It’s a 2004 new to me CRV. They were filthy- may never have been done so I can now breathe easier. P. S. You mention you adjusted the valves on your CRV? Do you have a video for this? I’ve done this on my MGB’s before, so I’m thinking I might attempt it on my 2004 CRV. I just have to find my feeler gauges.
Yes the filter change is simple once you get past those fiddlin clips. I thought I had a valve adjustment video, but it seems not. It's not difficult, just take your time and bend the feeler gauges, cheers
Outstanding diagnostics! Great video. By the way, I own an 1100. They were called Austin Americas here in the US. Mine is a 1970. I've had it since 1983, and it's restored to looking like it did when it left the factory, although I drive it often, so it's not a garage queen.
Who'd have thought a bash on the tank would show up a build fault. The BMC 1100s were OK cars, basic and practical transverse engine front wheel drive and light, and no computers, cheers
Really an excellent job on this video, and showing a nice DIY method. There is a full pump ring removal tool available, and it's adjustable. They can be found on Ama z0n and similar places. I see that you found the fault was in the plug connector (in your part 2 of this repair) so that's great! Nicely done! I have an '05 with 5spd manual (I'm in the US) with 277,000mi on it, and I've been thinking that I should purchase a ring removal tool, and a fuel pump, and throw them in the plastic spare tire well (Honda calls it an ice chest on on the US cars, because the spare tire is mounted on the rear door). I hate to pre-emptively replace the factory Honda pump, because the quality of automotive parts "now" is so poor. But having a spare, while on a road trip, might be prudent.
I've never had a problem with genuine CRV fuel pumps, the spare car has 180K miles on it with a poor transmission. Don't like amazon as they don't pay correct taxes and put everyone else out of business, cheers
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge, it's very motivating to see what you have achieved. I have bought one of your books and will buy this one soon. I've never found anything as difficult as planning/going off grid, my wife and I are keen, but progress is painfully slow. I guess things that are really worth having are hard to obtain. 😊
Hi, building a sustainable life has many challenges, it's going against the plans of the corporate world, but it is a healthy life of gaining skills and so cannot be rushed. It's not about the end because there is no end, it's about the journey; a life of interest and wonder, cheers
Hi Andy, very interesting video, I managed to “persuade” an old 90amp Bosch alternator to replace the useless 70amp Lucas alternator on my BMC 1500D boat engine, the Lucas used to get really hot and didn’t last long, this Bosch I got from a car Scrappy 15 years ago and put in a new Regulator/ brush set, also fitted 13mm pulleys to cope with charging my AGM’s via the Victron DC DC charger, I get no belt slip now and the Bosch purrs away like a kitten.. 👍🏻
I use mine for digging in areas where there are roots so i sharpen the edge and cut a notch in the tip so when i hit a root it does not slip sideways. . Small improvements can make work much more pleasurable.
Hi Andy please could you tell me what side out do you put the board? Is it bark in or bark out hopefully this makes sense to you. I was thinking of putting the bark side out as if the board tries to cup the bottom board nail will hold that edge and the nail on the next board up with the overlap should hold the other side. But would the bottom edge curl up and leave a gap? Love your videos they are crammed with logical information and humour 👍
Hi, I'm assuming you are using slab wood, the edges of the logs and will have bark covering the whole side. I would put this outermost but give a good overlap. The single nail fixing is important and should counter cupping as long as the nails are galvanised and of a good length, cheers
@@TheInfoworks thank you for your quick reply no I'm using 150mm x19mm boards I was trying to relate to the rings of the boards would you have the cup in to the wall (ie bark in pith out) or cup out (ie bark side out pith side in. Thank you again Ps your chainsaw repair videos have got me out of trouble more than once 👍
Very informative - ive got a k18-50 that has been off for repair (deck not operating) they told me the PCB was bad and that countax have discontinued them so beought i back and charged an arm and a leg for the privilege! Since its return ive dived into it. Few questions: many people suggest bypassing the PCB with a sitect feed from ignition live to deck switich then from there down to clutch with the ground straight to battery - thoughts on this?? Also am i correct in thinking that a sinple bench test on the deck clutch would he straight to bat?
Hi, interesting, yes a direct supply to the magnetic clutch would be a good test. However I suspect this could not be a permanent fix. On my countax the deck clutch switch has 3 positions, off, on, and engage. The engage is sprung loaded so that it drops off to on when let go. I think, but am not sure , engage gives more power to the coil to pull it in, but on "on " the power is reduced through a resistor to prevent the coil burning out. This is how starter solenoids work. See my latest video on this where I cleaned up the PVB contacts and re-flowed the pin solder joints. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gUr8bi3VTo8.html. If this helps please consider subscribing and donating to help with my costs, cheers
That was profoundly educational... As a younger person who is born into a world where you're meant to just buy a new anything when things break, i thought you needed a big factory in China to make or repair anything these days. But i learned here there's lots you can do with pieces of scrap metal, a vice, and a ball pein hammer. And I finally know what to use the round end of the hammer for 😅👍 Are you a fitter and turner? Where did you learn all this stuff before you had the internet?
Hi, thanks for your insight, I'm old enough tt have done real metalwork at school, and have had 50 years of fixing stuff, and sometimes getting it wrong. See my new book, Tales of Power, cheers
Hi, it is bolted to the engine block, the lever is operated by an extra cam lobe on the engine cam shaft. The diaphragm moves up and down, sucking fuel from the tank through a valve. This valve closes when the diaphragm moves up and the pressure opens the other valve to push fuel through the filter and into the injection pump, cheers
Hi, why are you sorry, I would be very interested in your own solutions and a video you put on your channel, please let me know when you have done that, cheers
Hi Andy, chap I bought it from said it came from one of two farm sales. Looking at the Bulldog website, yours appears to be a West Country pattern. The one I bought is an Irish Digging Shovel which has a larger pointier head and thicker handle, about 1.5" diameter. They're great, not only for your back, but your to and from piles can be further away from one another and even at different elevations! English shovel best for shovelling off a flat surface/yard. Sometimes I move most of the pile with the long handled and then finish with a 'regular' shovel to clean up.
Wonderful bit of history Andy… old tools were made properly and by skilled men who knew there intentions… it’s so sad seeing the rubbish being sold in DIY stores and supermarkets these days… Britain has lost so many great engineers and toolmakers and as I say we now tolerate rubbish from China and beyond
Yes, not just quality of imported finished products, but base materials too. I feel the Chinese stuff is to be treated as an almost there product. It's cheaper because the time consuming final touches are left out. It's then up to the buyer to see it through. Not easily done with today's average consumer.
Hi, yes I reckon you are right, looks like a right pain with 20 year old exhaust fittings ETC. Remove the whole front looks like the way to go and don't bother with the aircon, cheers
The small board just provides power to run the main board. The power for charging is supplied from the mains input connection. You could disconnect this power supply and use an external plug in 12v DC 2 amp unit. Make sure the polarity is correct. Load some photos on your channel, cheers
Hi Andy I have no blue light and it's not charging. Unfortunately I have no skills. Towards the end you said if you don't want to take it all apart to fit a separate power supply to the pins under the main motherboard. Can you please tell me what voltage it needs to be and how many amps. Do I still need to connect the power supply to the white terminal blocks.
Paul, Hi, no I don't provide this service but I believe it is available on Ebay. What ever you do make sure your inverter is mounted in a cool, well ventilated space, cheers
Interesting method of spot welding - would have come in handy a few weeks ago, but rather too late now as I've already disposed of the failed item. One improvement I'd suggest though - the welds in your sieve will corrode through, as there will be mild steel contamination in the spot welds. If you used a machined/ground stainless steel bolt as the electrode and another stainless steel item between the vice and the sieve, it would stop that from happening.
Will,now there's a thought that never occurred to me, interesting and worth monitoring. The spot welds are definitely bigger than original micro ones, cheers
I’m surprised I havent tried spot welding yet given it’s simplicity. Just a few weeks ago I even had the chance to try ( hindsight 20/20) on a stainless tea strainer. Instead i chose to solder it. I didnt have high hopes for the solder but it hasnt failed yet. Some day I’ll try out spot welding.
The factory spot welds on these things are far too small, designed failure? Yes my alternative would have been solder, but I just fancied an experiment, cheers
