Hi Pedro! Congrats on your channel and your projects! How about a universal (or almost) 'cargo trike conversion kit' for a traditional bike? I supose you like to build things 'from the ground up', but this could be a great project as well. Looking forward to see the next videos!
Hello Jorge, thank yo so much! Indeed, in the future, I plan to sell some parts at least to help others making tadpole tilting trikes. Maybe a kit even. Cheers!
Have you considered making those steering 'cylinders' out of metal or plastic? doesn't seem like it would need the strength of metal, and would be lighter and easier to make.
I am currently working on a similar project and this was exactly the video I needed. Excellent execution and the wheels and tires look great. Likely going to do the same thing!
I love this project, my question is, in the future will you be selling the full tutorial on how to build a final version of this. I would love to add this on to my regular bike just for stability riding around the city. As for material I will probably send the files for them to print it for me in metal and assemble it together.
Thank you! Absolutely, I already have the newest version of the trike as an open source project making it easier for others to build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ynoPiZPf1R8.htmlsi=UJZfk_ETNoEF7YK1. The next one that I make will be the one that I try to monetize a bit with super accurate instructions, drawings and build.
As for the ball joints/ball bearings/bushings question: Bushings. Clamp things together so everything's in alignment, maybe put a couple pieces of paper between flat surfaces while you're building it so things won't be so tight you can't get them together. Bushings handle load better, and ball bearings are more for higher speed rotation. Ball joints are only there to handle misalignment, which shouldn't exist if you've jigged everything properly during building. As long as everything is inline (which you just gotta constrain it like you already seem aware of) a self-lubricating bronze bushing is cheap and should be very sturdy/long lasting.
Now that I've checked responses, seems like a couple people have suggested plastic bushings. Which one would be better for the application would kinda depend on the loads, but since this is a bicycle and loads are limited by both the size of the suspension arms and the tires and wheels, the frame.. all that kinda thing.. some types of plastic would probably work alright. Important when designing around bushings to use a crush sleeve, cause if you don't, the bushing gets squeezed by the bolt and the entire assembly will either become solid or tear itself apart... or if the bushing is longer than the cup it's in (and is solid enough to take clamping forces needed to preload the bolt), it rotates around inside the cup, which is not how they're supposed to work. I'd personally just go with a flanged bronze bushing with the flange facing the outside on each end of the wishbone, and that'll handle radial and thrust loads excellent. Wouldn't need a flange on the insides because your suspension arm would have to squeeze together in order to make that happen, and very little of that will be happening. Only concern I'd have with this setup would be a bit of noise and maybe road gunk becoming a grinding paste over time?
For clarity about the bushing rotating in the cup: the main reason that's a problem is that the cup the bushing goes into will be wearing, and it's harder to replace that cup than it is to replace a crush sleeve. Important note about crush sleeves that I've encountered a lot of people getting wrong: The crush sleeve goes IN BETWEEN the two plates the bushing is mounted between. If you drill the holes so that the crush sleeve can slide through the hole, you're doing it wrong. It should be sandwiched by the outer plates and the bolt locks it into place. It shouldn't rotate. Not trying to assume you don't know any of this, but I think it's all important information if you're thinking of using bushings, and I don't know what you know and don't.
@@LifeInJambles, that's a lot of great information! I think that bushings would be a great final choice. My main reason for using ball joints was to be forgiven for the inaccuracies. Even though I jig it all together, welding bends things a little. I must be honest - the other reason to not having chosen bushings is that I never used bushings;) but maybe it's time;). Thank you for all the guidance that will make my first experience more informed! Cheers!
@pedro-neves hey cheers, bud. Minimizing distortion when welding comes down a lot to jigging things firmly in place and making opposing tacks before you burn things in. I'd recommend a section of tube that fits snugly inside the cups (slightly shorter than the final mounting width of the arm) and a section of tube to space the cups where you want them. Clamp all that together with a bolt, tack your prewelded tube structure to that in several places, then burn it in with short sections on alternating sides to counteract distortion. Also remember which directions it's okay to have distortion in. If the weld pulls the arm up evenly around the circumference of both cups, functionally nothing has happened. I'll try to draw up some designs later to show what I mean visually with some vague guesses of dimensions, because I don't have the time or energy to run simulations and I don't know the loads. Just a demonstration of concepts.
Looking good Pedro! The steering ratio looks a bit quick, especially if you're going to be loaded up with a couple of kilo's. I find that my Cangoo really likes the bigger diameter pulley's for the cable steering, when I have both kids in the box (50ish kilo currently). Have fun! Pjotr
Hi Pjotr! Indeed, it sounds like bigger pulleys would do a better job. These are doing pretty well without cargo but with cargo it might be nice to have the extra torque. Hope you're doing well! Cheers!
traditional bikes have a metric called 'rake' that describes the offset of the front wheel from the steering axis, it stabilizes the bike. Tire contact patch behind steering axis and wheel axel in front of steering axis (rake) for stable handling.
@@pedro-neves Thanks for the response, you're doing excellent work. I do think that a little bit of 'rake' will stabilize the trike for hands free riding. Axle in front of steering axis means the steering tends to self straighten (assuming there is some 'camber').
looking nice - front breaking might be "fun" since I don't think it's easy to have exactly the same force applied left/right? and that might mess things up? idk
Thank you! I haven't started the break challenge indeed;) With hydraulic brakes, I believe the force of one lever will be distributed downstream to both ramifications in equal way. But I haven't tested yet. Let's see;) Cheers!
@@pedro-neves my main thing is mostly my own body is revolting against riding most bikes unless the bars are swept back and almost completely vertical and close to my body as just having my arms stretched out strait gets really sore after 30 or so minutes. And just putting pressure is even worse. iv got pin's in both my shoulders from falling few years ago and next to no cartilage on the joints.
flat bearings or bushings would be much better than ball bearings for your parallellogram. ball bearings are absolutely terrible at handling twisting loads like you're applying here, they are only good at handling loads that are aligned with their radius, which is only a very small part of the load you're putting them under. if you replace those bearings with bushings, preferably bronze, your suspension will last much longer before requiring a complete overhaul, and the overhaul will be cheaper to do and require only off-the-shelf parts. as you have it now, the inner and outer races of those ball bearings are going to separate from each other and spill out all the balls. roller bearings would solve the issue as well, but they're generally much more expensive and don't come in as small of sizes, and they're still worse than a bushing at dealing with twisting loads at low speed.
Absolutely. This was only to prove that the system works. I'm working on the "final version" with proper parts and proper bearings and will show it in the next video. Will not be perfect so I expect some comments there as well;)
Looks great! Would it it work to put the steering part of the parallelogram on the underside of the block and keep the two on the sides up top to avoid the twist? Seems to be working with the bearings but could reduce the load on them.
This is exactly what I was thinking. Eventually, the way it is now will lead to cracked welds or destroyed bearings. And in the mean time, there will still be some unwanted flexing
Thank you! Ya, absolutely. I put the pulley below so my thought was to put the parallelogram above to not use more space underneath the vehicle. I'm trying to make cargo MTB maybe;) Cheers!
It seems to work really nicely, I'm curious do you get any 'roll steer' that is if you lean the bike(with the handlebars unchanged) does it effect the angle of the front wheels, to me it should be giving you 'toe in' but it may not be all that noticeable.
I think that, when rolling, there is always a bit of the turn of the steering bar. I recently watched this video about turning and rolling that was very entertaining and informative: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vSZiKrtJ7Y0.htmlsi=zFVB6Q1szDZ8rC-O.
Thank you for sharing your invention... I have a recumbent bike that needs two wheels up front... your videos have been an inspiration... now to get my "A" into gear. I made a "one time donation". Can you share the General Arrangement in .dxf for us who don't support yankee monopilisation? Thank You.
Thank you so much! It makes me happy to see my work valued. Unfortunately, Autodesk Fusion does not allow exporting the model to .dxf with the free version. I exported to step that should be universal to CAD software. Otherwise, you can download Fusion for free and open the model. I hope that works out for you.
@@pedro-neves Dear Pedro, many thanks, the step file opens in my Rhino Cad software. You have done a lot of work on this project, and I really appreciate you sharing your work! regards, Roger.
the paralellogram makes it possible for the three steering points to move in the same plain and the same amount. it would be perfect if it was possible to make the three points a single point but I figure that solution would require some custom machining and is not readily available. so this solution makes things easy.
Pedro, Thank you so much for sharing your adventure in design and fabrication of your tilting cargo tryke! I appreciate your problem solving methods, and how you give credit to the person who shared ideas for the Ackerman geometry. I've enjoyed each of your videos in the series, too.
Love the build and the video. Is there an engineering/functionality reason why the parallelogram has three links, rather than two? I was thinking that offsetting the steering pulley shaft to the side could allow it to replace one of the links, simplifying the mechanism, but I may have missed something fundamental.
Thank you! Indeed, I designed it like that the first time as well but it happens that the steering does a circle changing too much and by incorrect proportions the length of the steering rack.
I understand that the anti Ackerman is done in some racing cars to cause the outer tire to slip in tight turns in order to make the inner tire grip more by comparison and thus making tighter turns.
This just keeps getting better. I wonder if there's a way to limit damage to the steering from collision by making a sacrificial slipping joint with a vertical axis on the frame just behind the steering mechanism. I would hate to see your work damaged. Well done, it really looks very impressive.
First time, instant sub! That's quality engineering, fabrication and videography 👏👏👏 I felt spoiled with that footage (12:20) of working mechanism, top notch content 👌
Thank you for subscribing! I always try to improve so I think the projects and the quality of the film will keep getting better. I like that footage very much as well. I also think it's a nice detail with the bus with "Centraal Station" written as destination. I love this city;) Cheers!
Great video. I enjoyed the closeup clips of your mechanism in action! What a good way to help viewers develop confidence in and understanding of such a complicated mechanism. I hope to ride one myself someday. I imagine that your trike might accommodate a tandem stoker rider in the cargo area and put them 6-10” lower for a safer more stable feeling. Perhaps you will incorporate a tilt lock that will make low speed maneuvering easier. I look forward to your next iteration and video.
Thank you so much! Indeed, I try to make the video in a way that explains well to others how to build. Adding a tandem would be a project on its own. This would make it truly unique;) I definitely have on my near horizon adding a tilt lock. Cheers!
The bowden cable steering looks nice, but i would be really worried about hitting something that kicks the wheel to one side, and snapping a cable. Wouldn't using a chain be more reliable?
Hi, absolutely. There are four cables. Two pulling in each direction providing redundancy so if one snaps you still got the other one to take you home.
Best Channel on yt :) Maybe change the parallelogram to bushings instead of welded bearings. It could reduce the flex a bit and seeing you weld the bearings almost gave me a heart attack. But hey, if it works, right? It would also be really slick if you could make the base of the parallelogram ride on the shaft of the front steering arm, but there would need to be a way to hold it fixed.
Thank you! Indeed, this is not the finished version. I was just trying it but I will make a proper steering rack based on this principle and show it on the next video;) Cheers!
