@@CorbinGeary I went to the junkyard for that part and it was difficult to remove the part. destroy something. Thank you, that will help me install the part.
I just want to thank you for this video! I watched your video and was able to fix the light problem on my truck! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I wouldn't pass the safety inspection without your help! I wish good Karma will come to you! 🤙
Great video, right to the point! I just did mine after watching this, 15 min ago. I didn't replace it, no new one, but fixed existing one. Over time, the washer on top of plunger stops making good contact resulting in no resistance to activate light. I noticed the connection tab was loose, so I used needle nose pliers to squeeze the 2 tabs a little tighter so the blade terminal would no longer wiggle. If you look closely at switch you can see what I'm referring to. 1 tab is bent 90° and tiny tab on opposite side is bent 90° the opposite way
Hi Corbin, thanks for video! It looks like the same is on Ford Econoline E150 1999. The same switch. Green with orange (or red) wire. I don't know where other side of wire should be connected? Any idea?
Fixed mine today using this method. Not sure if it was a ground issue or some corrosion on the little disc or the contacts the disc touches. Since the only way to test it is to re-install the switch, unless you test for the ground issue BEFORE removing the switch, you won't know which it is. On a '97, it's hard to push the fuse box far enough back, although as @nekosahide says, you get more leverage from the back. You also really want a 1/4" drive 7mm socket that's about 1.25 inches. My short socket was too short, and the tall socket was too tall. I ended up using a flex extension (one of those ones that has what looks like a spring in the middle, not a multi-angle adapter). And it's a still a PITA to get the switch settled in place and get the retaining screw started and have enough light and get your fingers in there and get the dang connector that's hanging down in the way out of the way... But all in all, it probably does beat trying to drop the whole parking brake assembly just for this. Thanks for the idea, now I have a parking brake light again.
I just did this the other day and skinned my hands up pretty bad, this IS the much easier way to do this even with the knuckle busting. Just a few things I learned. 1. Once you pop the fuse box I got more leverage moving it from the back instead of pushing on the front. 2. Make sure you have good lighting to see what your doing. 3. My issue was a ground issue, I replaced the switch anyways but I could have gotten away with cleaning up the old switch, bolt and the area it was bolted to.
