No... no "mounting brackets" needed. BUT, in order to get the Zuma's IEC plug location to match a Predaltrain front rail when mounting the Zuma underneath the Pedaltrain board... you'll need to cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the footprint size of the Zuma... then make a Velcro sandwich, PT/plywood/Zuma... A Voodoo Lab PedalPower 2's IEC connector will line up fine under a Pedaltrain of the sizes you mention, and you honestly would need to pry the Zuma off the underside in order to get it off. You DO NOT need to spend extra money for a "bracket"... -- FWIW, what you DIDN'T say was that the Voodoo Lab unit produces only 100mA per outlet. The Strymon Zuma produces 500mA per outlet. I can use ONE outlet on my Zuma for most of my analog devices with a daisy chain cable between them and out of the Zuma. It is perfectly quiet on my board... Footnote, if by any chance you run out of outlets on the Zuma, Strymon also makes all their power supplies with the ability to add their Ojai Expansion kits. They are also small enough to Velcro beside the Zuma underneath a decent sized Pedaltrain board. Also, the problem with using the Voodoo Lab MONDO is it's immense size... it weighs just shy of 3 lbs. The Zuma only weigh 1-1/4lbs... big difference for still not the same mount of output, etc... MONDO is 10.75" x 3.4" x 1.75" (FOUR INCHES longer), Zuma is 6.8" x 3.3" x 1.8" www.strymon.net/product-category/power-supplies/
If you plan to run a large strymon pedal with a voodoolab power supply you need to use an amp doubler lead, NOT the voltage doubler! I ran the “stryfector” on my Mondo and they all worked fine!
Strymon Timeline requires 300ma. The power 2 I reviewed here has 100ma outputs and 2 250. You would have to use a least one of the 250ma outputs with the amp doubling cable (which simply connects across 2 outputs in parallel thereby stacking the capacity). It would work but gobbles up an extra output jack. I can’t speak to the Mondo because I never owned one. It does look pretty powerful.
Nice and neat build. Well done. Your wiring is super neat. Looks like your output valves are mismatched though, looking at the way the sine wave breaks up very unevenly. Cheers for the vid.
True about mondo. I’ve never evaluated it, but I suspect it uses a similar switching power supply design for the digital outputs. Same with the new Pedal power 3+. Likely will perform equivalently.
@@tcarad2 beautiful work. I asked because the mallory 150's look similar. Both are great guitar amp caps. Hey did you have problems with your revibe unit per creating a ground loop putting it in front of an amp?????
@@russellesimonetta3835 Ground loops can be pretty unpredictable, And certain equipment may not play well together. I specifically added a ground lift switch to my revibe unit from the start of its design. I was afraid I might have this problem. In practice though it’s hardly a difference between the ground lift off and on. At least that was the case for the equipment I have. But I recommend adding one if you end up building one. It’s probably worth having that as an option.
@@tcarad2 in my fevered imagining, I'm a neophyte, I wondered if a sheilded output jack that doesn't compleate ground to the revibe chassis but compleates the ground connection to the amp would do the trick.
@@russellesimonetta3835 if you send me a link to the jack your referring to, I can check it out. The origin of ground loop problems is that typical jacks are chassis mounted, and modern chassis designs all go to earth ground (not so in 1950s). Multiple paths to ground mean signal can passthru the shielded instrument cables if one chassis is at a slightly different potential. To make a ground lift work, you need to isolate your entire circuit from the chassis. That includes using isolation washers on jacks to keep from chassis ground. But more than just completely free floating, you just increase the potential a bit by tying to ground thru a very small resistor (most people use 10ohms). That’s enough to quash any significant signal across the instrument cable. If you do some search there are some good reads about it. It will eventually make sense.
Can I ask a question...I am totally not technical...so maybe a stupid question. Would it be possible to construct a stand-alone-tube-driven-tremolo-unit? So without a reverb involved?
There are several circuits for tube tremolo. Using the design I did, It can be done. But you’d need probably a minimum of 3 tubes, a power transformer. If you wanted tube rectification you’d need a 4th tube. I’m my opinion it’s not worth doing because there is a lot of component overhead that just make good design sense to couple with another function.
I can’t see the LEDs under the barefoot buttons. It’s a clear “footpad” that I stuck there, which acts like a prism or lens to scatter the LED light so I can see it.
You need all this gear for the music that you play ??? I was expecting you to sound like U2 or something. For that light nice music that you play.... oh my god! You don’t need more than 3 pedals. And none of those knobs covers enhancers or what the hell those are.🤣🤣
I wish I new about these high current power supplies 3 years ago. I had a voodoo lab pedal power but for the multitude of high current devices like the H9 and the Strymons I had to plug into a power strip with a multitude of wall warts hanging off the back. It was a real mess
Nice job with the test. As far as voltages, Vrms = Vp-p * .3535 so your oscilloscope measurement of 18.9vp-p equals 6.68vrms so that was correct. However, if you were getting your 150mv reading from your waveform generator off your scope, then the actual rms voltage of your input signal was 53mv. The way the two volume controls interact in that circuit is just how you saw on your scope. Rhett Shull has a video about that with this amp on his YT channel.
Thank you for this vid. Considering a Zuma and I have one question if you have the time to answer I'd really appreciate it. My board is simple; old univibe, old Whipple VOX wah, old ibanez delay, 84' TS-9, keeley ds-1, EQ, looper. I live in the crumbling ruins of a house built in 1952. No grounded outlets just a bunch of 2 pronged crap! Needless to say makes my distortions and OD's buzz since I have to use a 2 prong power strip to the wall outlet and a 1-Spot daisy chain plugged into the strip. If i use a Zuma into that power strip instead, do you think i'll be cured of this buzzing curse or just burn this house down and move? Thanks
I don’t think the problem is your house. In fact a lot of ground loop noise is eliminated by removing the ground pin of components (but for modern safety standards, not recommended). I bet your rig has the same problem in places outside your house. I would try to find out what the offending piece of your rig is by simplifying everything. Go guitar to amp, and add in the components until you find the problem. For a cheap fix you could get another one spot on that component. If that solves your problem, then any of the isolating power supplies will work for you. Outside of your looper (which I’m not sure about) I think your pedals are analog and not high current hogs, so PP2+ would be just as good as zuma. Given you seem to dig old classic pedals, I’m guessing you’re not getting digital pedals soon (those are the real problem).
@@tcarad2 thanks for your reply. I ended up going with the one spot pro 12 and wow! Every issue solved! No more noisy distortion no more loud pop when the wah comes on . 9 pedals strong and no more noise it's like a miracle
Both make clean power. I can’t say they make pedals sound better, they just make them sound the way they are supposed to. The only problem with PP2 is the lack of current for digital pedals. Strymon will not disappoint in providing lots of clean power.
Great vid. Made me really happy I bough the strymon. Never been so excited about a power supply. I got a space Sputnik 3 and was running it though a one spot daisy chain from the wall so there was some noise..... with the strymon no more and all my pedal sound exactly like they are supposed to with no bull shit noise. Love it
I'm considering getting the Zuma. I have a few older Boss ACA pedals on my board like the CE2 & HM2. I notice you're using a CE2 on your board. Any issues powering it? Cheers
No problems whatsoever. I also now power an Analogman SunFace. (In the place of the POG). Fuzzface type pedals have unique power considerations. Zuma is great. I haven’t looked back.
It’s only slightly larger than the voodoo PP2+. Strymon makes some underside mounting brackets which I’m using on my new pedaltrain pedal board. I have another video you can see that on.
Bob Smith hey thanks for the respond. I ended up buying the zuma, it doesn’t fit the mount but i’ll find a way. The pedaltrain is pretty good, wish I went with that board now lol. Thanks again
Probably slightly different but both will be good. (I use orange in other amps, they’re great.). It’s a matter of personal taste. I built another with their yellow “vintage” Jupiter’s. Different, but also just as good. Between the 2 I slightly liked red, so I built a 3rd with reds. But that’s just me. For an amp that will last 50 years, and takes many hours to build, the cost of parts to me is small.
Here’s the question OK zuma it’s quiet but does it make sound better our pedals? . I had the daisy one spot made by visual sound and I was so happy with it it actually made my pedal sound better I compared with other adapters and really make my distortion sound better crisper cleaner better. Until it burned las for a few years then I bought another 2 1 spot but this time make it by True Tone. it was not even close to the quality of the one spot made by visual sound not even close doesn’t sound the same and my other pedals doesn’t even have the same sound so I don’t care if there’s new adapters they give you a 400 mA I wanna know if they sound better. That’s the main question. I’m telling you this because I really compare every single pedals with other adapters
Ivan Alejandro it’s very interesting about what you discovered on the different one spot supplies. I suspect your first one was introducing some signal noise that was musically pleasing. It probably is similar to how some people prefer dying batteries in certain pedals. The problem is that can be really difficult to duplicate as you found. I want the absolute cleanest power so I don’t have to worry about so many variables. If something breaks, I want to just replace it and go. It’s the same reason I don’t hotrod my pedals or amps. I think your only option is to buy a few supplies and test them out to see if you can get “it” back. A $250 supply probably isn’t your answer.
@@tcarad2 Yes actually that’s what I think the best is to try some adapters and see if they give me the best sound because believe it or not It will change your sound drastically there’s less sustain and it doesn’t sound as alive as it used to. In other words I was happy with my daisychain I didn’t have any noise and pedals used to sound very good right now I would like to buy the MXR 238 because it’s affordable. has 18 12 8 volts in a variety of mA. But at the same time I’m afraid of buying it and to have the same dead sound that I’m getting with this adapters. I’m pretty sure the strymons got to be the best thing
Those are “StompShields”. I don’t know if the guy is still in business, but you can find new old stock ones if you look hard. Check out this other video of mine. I talk about some of the non-pedal accessories on my board, including these shields. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mPZS9zY07o0.html
I have a Flint. Currently it is powered by an Strymon Ojai (in the place of the pedal power on the board in the video). Don’t worry about breaking your flint as long as you are giving it no more than 9volts. The pedal will try draw enough current to run. If it taps out of current it may just not run at all (being a digital pedal) but you won’t hurt anything.
I ran my Flint through variety of isolated and regular power supplies, and it doesn't require anything special. Any generic 9V pedal power supply you can find in a music store will work just fine.
Why did you install the power supply on the top side of the board? Is there no room underneath the board for the power supply?? Not an angled pedalboard??
Did you find that this power supply is quiet? I'm having a terrible hum issue with my T-Rex Fuel Tank Classic and I want to try something else. If you read closely, T-Rex's website says that the "sections" are isolated, so the 'eight 9-volt outputs' section is isolated from the '12v DC and 12v AC outputs' section, but each of the 9v outputs are not isolated from each other. I am hoping the Zuma will resolve this.
SLM1 Zuma is very quiet. I have never used the trex fuel tank, but from the description, it is not isolated. The zuma can go do 9 and 12v DC, but no the AC. I found it to be equally quiet as the pedal power, but with higher current to accommodate digital pedal. Also digital pedals tend to be very noisy and basically require isolation. That is probably why strymon got into making their own.
Without a doubt, the best pedalboard build video I've seen on RU-vid! Meticulous attention to detail, top notch components and fully functional. Great job! I love people who are OCD like me. :)
Mondo is good, for sure, but kinda big. Digital wouldn’t have enough ports. I’m very happy with the strymon supplies. Since making this video I bought 2 strymon Ojai. The daisy chaining function is great between them. I also changed to a board that lets me put it underneath (some kind of pedal train board). Check out the video I have on my “favorite features” and you’ll see some improvements in my overall board design.
Thats because u using pp2plus it wont handle big current, why not using 4x4 or mondo? Im too wanna upgrade my pp2plus but still dont know which one will i buy. Stay voodoo or changing into other brand
Barefoot Buttons now sells smaller diameter knobs as well ~ another choice for pedals where the bigger knobs would get in the way of the lights or controls (tho awesome mod with the prism generator, lol! But wouldn’t work for a pedal that has actual controls there, like on a Blackstone overdrive)
