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Hi No unfortunately not, hopefully get back to doing some more events this year. Not rode that much in the last few years for various reasons. Jan could be interesting with the weather, but it’s a great track so hopefully be dry 🤞

@1973smiley That's a shame.... Fingers crossed for good weather.

Is the Dunlop KR Slick still your tyre of choice? Also what size rear do you run on the beemer 200 or 190?

@@IOMTT2024 Yeah I tend to run dunlop because I got a load of scrubs, but Dunlops do seem to be generally regarded as the best, obviously a lot depends on what compound is being used, the harder carcass compared to Pirelli seems to make the bike more stable on the rear (on standard bike). I’ll happily use Pirelli front and dunlop rear. Its basically a case of what I can get my hands on cheap.. actually this footage may of been a continental tyre, I really can’t remember… I’ve used pretty much every size on the rear, the only difference you’ll notice really is in the gearing, if you have a 205/60 obviously it will be higher geared compared to 190/55 for example. Unless your top line racer level there’s going to be very little noticeable difference in how the bike handles. Most of it will be in the riders head.. I don’t even worry about the size of the tyres, just put on whatever and crack on, I flip all my tyres as well, way to expensive to be only using one side of the tyre.. depending what pace your riding, be careful you don’t go for too soft a compound and get cold tearing… I did Portimao in Nov, a mate was doing about 57/58s, on a Pirelli sc2, put on a new sc2 for the next day and because the track was much colder in the morning he cold tore it to pieces in 2 sessions, luckily as the day warmed up it started to clear, but the tyre was finished in less than a day due to the tearing at the start.. I had on a dunlop 5 compound which is pretty hard, probably too hard but zero issues with tearing, and I was only going a couple of seconds quicker at that point so it probably wasn’t the additional pace that made the difference.

Just looked back through the comments and seen you got to 2min dead last time. So in the risky area of cold tearing if compound is too soft. What tyres you planning on taking?

The actual fault was the flywheel, I don’t know how best to describe it but the flywheel assembly has 8 or 10 really chunky rivets that hold it together, somehow they had effectively come loose and caused a small amount of movement, creating the rattle, I welded them up and it was perfect 👍🏻

@@1973smiley interesting-thank you for posting-I had similar rattle.

@@rkymtn9335 Hopefully you sorted your rattle, but the way I identified it was probably clutch related was because the rattle vanished when the clutch was engaging, so if you held it on the bite point so the clutch was under pressure it stopped the rattle, but of course with the clutch fully down or fully up the rattle was present. Took me ages to realise that it didn’t rattle when the clutch was biting!

😀, that is the fastest group 😀👍🏻💪🏻

@@1973smiley Wowzers 🤣 Im just back from Portimao. Managed to take 3 seconds of my time in January at 2 min flat so really pleased. Next time I'll grow some, take your advice and put it in Slick🙂

@@IOMTT2024 Nice One, Ah I've just seen our previous comments, Good work dropping 3 seconds, basically tracktime is key, the more you do the faster you'll get, what seems really fast/high lean gradually feels less so the more you get used to it, hence why I think progression is made, obviously lines are super important, I know mine on this video aren't 100% right. 100% go slick mode.. I'm out there in Nov, I've not done much tracktime in 4 years so be interesting to see how I get on.. Glad you had a good safe trip

Hi, If you look down the comments at the comments from "1812 s" you'll see a fair bit of chat about what settings I was using and various other possibly helpful info. I just looked at your footage from Portimao and Jerez, If the footage is from January this year looks like you got the best weather you could have hoped for, I did see the heated grips on, I used them once at Donnington, actually really helpful when wind temp is cold. I notice you were in Race mode, that's probably ok for the pace you were going in your vids, but you'll see the TC light flashing for no good reason, In Race its just way too intrusive, its not stopping the wheel spinning its just limiting power based on a give lean angle/speed/ throttle positon/gear etc. Whack it in SLICK, way way better, if your nervous, just use TC setting in the higher + range, which will still be very intrusive and safe as houses, when you start riding at a pace where the light is on out of every corner reduce it down bit by bit, I've had a couple of big near highsides using -7, so just watch out on -7... A BSB level racer will say -7 is still too intrusive but that's a whole different level to where any trackdayer is. And they don't need to worry about the cost of leaving half the tyres rubber on the ground... In those Vids I was probably about 85kg without gear.

Hi, hard to remember what I was using back then, but definitely slick mode and the dash shows the TC on -4, suspension will probably of been somewhere around +3 on the rear for comp and rebound, front back then would likely of been +1, (I've found myself using +3 or 4 on the front recently) springs will of been on standard factory settings, Since then I've done loads of trackday's and played with settings, not sure there's a particular setting where I'm noticeably faster, everything's a compromise and I've got no idea how changing one setting effects another etc. and whilst I get round well for a trackdayer, put a proper racer on my bike and they'd go seconds faster with ease, so I pretty much just jump on and ride it, and don't mess with it. A box standard BMW s1000rr is easily capable of a sub 1.50 at Portimao in the right hands, so I figure settings are pretty irrelevant unless close to that. dunno if any of this helps.. lol

@@1973smiley haha thanks....about to get myself one of these for next season. Epic riding looked like you was having so much fun in this video haha 😎

@@shy231__6 They are great bikes, my only real advice is never turn the Traction Control off, unless your BSB standard rider 😬😀, hope you enjoy it, have fun and stay safe 💪🏻👍🏻

Got myself a gen3 and booked onto portimao for May 😁. Bit of shopping to do now. Any recommendations on which slicks and brake pads work well ? Got HP wheels and Brembo HPK discs already.

@@shy231__6 Hi, the best pads are Brembo ZO4's but expensive, I'm happy using SBS Dual Carbon, alot cheaper and still a good pad. I was using the SBS DC in this video, (I only use ZO4's if I can get part worn's with descent life left on the cheap). Don't use SBS Race Sinter, not as good and wear faster, so saving on price is worthless due to higher wear ( not to be confused with Dual Sinter which are SBS equivalent to ZO4's). Tyres: Dunlop KR's are the best, closely followed by Bridgestone VO2's. I'd stay away from Pirelli and Metzeler as there's more chance of them tearing, the Dunlops and Bridgestones have a much harder carcass and side wall so seem to stay more planted. I know a correct set up bike on Pirelli's will go just as fast ( WSBK and BSB etc) but in the real world of trackdays I'd go with either of the 2 I mentioned. tyres are all about what pace you ride, go to slow on a soft compound and you'll tear it through lack of heat, and in reality 10 secs off what WSBK and BSB do is already a bit to slow really, but that pace will be top of fast group and on a hot european day it'll be fine, go round portimao in say the 2.05 mark on a cold day and risk tearing if compound too soft. same goes for any track, but those with long radius corners or aggressive surfaces will show it up more. I'm talking about the rears, pretty much any front should be fine. So I'd go on the harder side of the scale for the rears. You'll no doubt have a great time, its an epic track with so much run off that you don't have to really fear too much.

Standard. (17 front 45 rear,) Whole bike is standard, except SBS DC brake pads and slick tyres, can't remember what brand but probably continental slicks back then, soft front medium rear. All my other vids are same standard bike, tyres might be different on other vids, hard to remember what I had on at each circuit...

@@1973smiley thanks mate. I’ve just bought a gen 3 track bike and got Portimao in October this year

ben talbot hi, yeah I'm pretty sure on that trip we had one day solid rain, yeah TC light going crazy even though it's probably on -5 in Slick mode, I always use scrub tyres and wear them right down before changing so yeah lots of movement, makes it more exciting though 😀😀

the bike is standard. ABS and DTC ON. preload front and rear is in the middle of the range. Slick Mode -2 on traction control ( i used to run -5 but the additional spin really just wears out the tyre) Rear rebound and compression +6, Front +2. tyres were well worn Dunlop KR's. Moto 2 rear, 2 compound front. pressures about 35f 24r running lower numbers on the rear suspension I found it tends to bounce and move around a bit more on the rear whilst on the power. I've tried the front on vaious settings from -2 to +2 and I find it hard to tell the difference. I'm about 14.5 stone with no gear on.

No, messing around on the in lap, going for elbow down, had elbow on the deck but because id turned a bit tight I gassed it to push me out a bit, unsurprisingly that's when it let go!

On the 2015 BMW the suspension is electronic, so it can be adjusted from the dash. so its just showing what setting I had the rear on, don't think you can see enough of the dash to actually see the setting. you can see the traction control on -5. unless you get a hp4 or a standard 2015 onwards bike you wont have the electronic suspension.

1973smiley cool thanks

a trick : you can watch movies on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching loads of movies lately.

@Joseph Timothy yup, been using flixzone} for years myself :D

@Joseph Timothy yea, I have been watching on Flixzone} for since december myself :)

Kite twat Hi, to trigger the ABS you have to be braking extremely hard and it will probably only come on if the rear wheel goes in the air whilst braking, it's not hindering me at all so no reason to turn it off in my opinion, with it still on its still there If for some reason slam the brake too hard and would of locked it up without ABS. Highly unlikely on a dry track, but as I say why turn it off if its not interfering with the riding etc.

I think rear was about +3 on comp and rebound on the rear and the front +1. Cant be sure what tyre, probably a continental soft rear with either a continental soft front or a Pirelli SC1. I'm now on KR's. much better tyres.

hi, No I've only done mallory years ago when i was a novice and Pembray once, I don't do wet riding so tend to go abroad to hopefully guarantee the weather and the moto GP/ WSBK and F1 circuits are awesome. Trouble with the UK is to do descent circuits its well over £100 per day then if it rains its money wasted for me..

Hi, yes brake pads only last a day if I ride like that every session!

+1973smiley good stuff! Really enjoyed watching that video, I've got my heart set on an S1000RR next.

Great video and really solid laps. Assume this was in October? Standard road gearing?

+Erdnuckel9551 Hi, Bike is totally standard 2015 model so yes the bike has the original sprockets. Im not sure how many teeth are on the front sprocket standard but the rear is 45teeth. (2011 bikes had 44teeth standard) You could use 3rd gear instead but you won't get as good acceleration between corners, and ultimately you won't go as fast. I don't find it too aggressive in 2nd, The traction control will save you if you do give it too much of a handful! have fun there, its great.

+1973smiley Many thanks for your message. I'll try as you say and go with standard sprockets . Am very excited about the race track :)

People tend to call it quite a technical track. Its got a nice long back straight so ideal for 1000cc bikes. Theres no tarmac run of so keep it on the black stuff! The 3 right handers which make up turn 4/5/6 are a bit tricky. don't go wide there otherwise your in a bit of trouble! A standard BMW (any year, I've also got a 2011 and could pretty much do the same time on that one) is more than capable. my bike is straight out the showroom, I only took of the mirrors and fitted slicks. I'm not a racer but I know 1.43 is pretty good, so just enjoy yourself. The amount of people I hear in pits going on about suspension and tyres, gearing etc. 99.9% of the time its the rider that determines the lap time!! Have fun bud

Yes that's the same thing I 've heard. In some corners its important to take the right line but on the whole, a very cool liquid racetrack. On the play station my time is already acceptable , we will see how the reality is ^^. Yes its good to recognize that your bike is still standard , even with the standard fairing. 1:43 is very fast in Almeria as I have seen , the most important to be able to drive fast is the driver ;) For last season I had also the 2011 model with only standard configurations and could go good times . Do you have also the DDC suspension on the 2015 model ? If so, what are your experiences with it on the race track ?

+Irwan E1 Hi, i used it with a mount that goes into the headstock, so it does turn slightly when the bars are turned, although pretty much unnoticable. I did mount it on the tank as well and the results are very similar.

I see.....ok, thanks for the info.....xd

What brand of gimbal are you using? Nice footage with nearly no vibration at all!