I tried regular superglue on my qubeley's shoulder ball joint, 5 coats and it still sags. The key is to sand the part that you put the glue on to add friction to the socket once you put the joint back
You can reuse the oyumaru as well. Once you have made all of one part you can reheat your oyumaru and recast it with the next part. You can also reuse all your excess cutoffs of the thermoplastic by reheating it. The larger the part the more oyumaru you'd need, but for small parts you can reuse the same pieces essentially forever.
I feel you, I also did that before and it was hard 😄 given the small window of pliability and at same time it's very hot, like hot glue, yes go with oyumaru it will be so much better 😊
@@aldrinco Hardest thing is the part is T shaped and flat few pegs in the middle and a hole.. its a shoulder part for TCE Galaxy from Runner O number 6 or 9.. man first time was epic fail I really need that Oyumaru its softer than thermoplastic..
@@aldrinco yeah even on online shopping app its pretty hard to comeby and pretty expensive haha.. I think i might go to some mall and find an art shop and all of this was my fault I didnt check the runners thoroughly before building it.. hahaha
@@kiplingin5023 I hope you'll find one in your area, I got mine through shopee, oh i think should start checking mine as well, I have a bad habit of not checking the runners as long it is sealed in plastic 😄
Hello, he is not wrong, since it's a copy of the original, the details are not that sharp compared to the original, but with time and effort you can still make it look nice close to the original.
Have you tried using both thermo plastic beads? Can it work? Instead of using oyumaru, we just use thermoplastic bead to do the mold and thermoplastic beads to replicate the parts as well?
I remember trying using thermo plastic both for the mold and the casted part, it will work somehow, but you will lose alot of details, oyumaru is much better when used as a mold, I hope this helps :D
Hey thanks for watching, For me it's okey 🙂, in my case I only pose my painted kit 1 time most of the time to prevent scratches since a paint without primer is very delicate, you can even remove the paint with just your finger nails.
Finally a straightforward tutorial! I'm trying to redeco a kit with colored clear plastic, and I realized remolding was going to be the only way to do it, but everything else out there was way above my skill level. Thanks!
Hi 😊 There is, in my experience I tried using silicon (the one they use for sealing windows & roofs) and mixed it with cornstarch to lessen the stickiness, somehow worked but I noticed I lost some of the details in the parts.
It's also useful if you want to make a translucent version to add an LED glow effect, like with the hologram stuff on the new Witch of Mercury main Gundam.
I think you can recast the polycaps, yup they are a nightmare, maybe recasting it with a different material will do the trick, like the one I used here, since the original polycaps deteriorate overtime.
I haven't tried that approach, though it might actually work, just be careful, there is chance that the hot glue would stick permanently to your original part.
Hey bro do you think this is better vs the HG aile strike? I plan to buy the perfect strike for the weapons and such and I'm contemplating on buying EG or Aile strike
Hey thanks for watching, about making a copy of hands, you need the original part as a guide for the mold, hmm 🤔 maybe if you have other kits with the same series (ex Gundam wing) chances they have similar or same hands, then you can use those to make a copy, I hope this helps 😁
Meh..just buy yourself a daban part, or a 2nd hand kit..the plastic parts were thermal injected to the moulds, which means it's compact and tempered. The density of the plastic materials isn't comparable to a hand-pressed part like this..