Thanks for this video. I was trying to 45 my corners and about dang near got ready to start breaking windows. Did this method with the jigsaw and gonna finish the job in half the time now. Thanks again!
Had to be grandfathered, no engineer would have signed off the way it was built. Now days they would require over engineered supports with earthquake hardware & shear connecting to slab, which there was none. Also, it would probably be denied on overall height, Especially if it was blocking someone's ocean view further up the hill. We just did R&R , then a new deck @ floor level
I'm in the same boat right now with a roll of 1". How did you straighten it? I left it in the sun for like 5 minutes then remembered about sensitivity to uv. I was thinking of a heat gun.....
Awesome tip, thanks! Running 2 water lines of PEX from my garage through a basement room without access into my furnace room so I have about 12’ of a straight run and didn’t want the coil pressing up against the joints.
A coped joint is basically a butt joint. Occasional you will be forced to miter inside corners. It's good to know how to measure the inside corner angles.
Better idea: buy the sticks. It takes too much time and energy, to straighten the coiled stock, and the connectors are cheap. The job will look much better.
This is good when you’re by yourself. What we used to do when you have two people is pull a bunch out and both people pull it tight several times. This works pretty well. However these methods only really work with pex B. If you’re using pex A, you may just have to deal with it. It’s designed with much more of a memory. It will straighten a bit but not enough to spend much time on. The only pex A that I spend much time trying to straighten is 1 1/4 to 2”. It’s worth it if you can straighten even a little because it’s a pain in the ass to work with. If you don’t know the difference in these two, you probably have B. That’s what the box stores sell.
It’s a lot easier to work with when it’s warm. I tried it in the cold without heat and it didn’t go so well. It’s sensitive to UV light, so keep it out of direct sunlight.
Interesting. Getting ready to repipe my house and I want to use Zurn pex, was reading all the horror stories about fighting the coil. I was going to buy 20 foot sticks, but am now rethinking that. Is this pex a or b in the video?
Good question. Had to look it up. Sharkbite brand pex b. Apparently the only difference between a & b is the manufacturing process and that b may be a little stiffer
I wanted to buy straight PEX to avoid this hassle, but the only straight PEX carried by Home Depot was B. At Lowes, it wasn't marked. Crazy. I bought the roll and tried to straighten it just by bending. I assumed it needed heat. I didn't check RU-vid first like I usually do, mainly because it didn't seem like it would be that big of a problem. Boy, was I wrong. Buy the straight pipes if you can afford the waste. You'll save yourself a lot of hassle and your install will look far prettier.
@@hatmanconstruction166 I'm pretty sure the difference between PEX A and B is significant. You wouldn't want to use B with A fittings. It's a different connection system entirely.
@@thedalillama Yeah I have come to that conclusion especially since I really wont; have any run that need more than 20 feet without a fitting. Sure more waste, and I hate that, but Pex is cheap.
That is one hell of a job. I'm a commercial floor man. Occasionally we have to install vinyl stringers & know how hard they are to scribe in. Beautiful job. Wood would have to be so much harder.
Looks like quarter inch or 3/16. I like to use a quarter inch birch. I’ve done this several times in the past with MDF but I like the less mess of using birch and then of course if it’s painted I might use MDF for the rails and styles.
I really appreciate the video! It answers my question if PEX would naturally uncoil or stay in the shape. I make mode roller coasters, so I need the rails to be really straight. Thanks for the tips!
Easiest way to do that is take a piece of the trim or board whatever you’re installing, trace it onto the wall and then do the same thing with the other piece, Mark to two points where the angles meet on the stairs and then transfer it to the piece of wood. You can search the Internet for bisecting an angle.
6:36 Nice job! I'm a cabinet maker myself and I recognize good work. Those aren't french doors though. French doors are double doors with glass. Don't mind me. I'm only buggin... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BtHbF7Ps7wQ.html
You not only know how to craft your brain superbly, man - well done. Thumbs up for how you do the details and the finish.Greetings from a static fan from Germany. Keep your great work up.
