Come along for the ride on my 1st real estate adventure, figuring out what to do and what not to do, how to do it yourself and when you need to hire out.
My buddy blew his eye out with an air nailer. The nail popped back and took the eye. Not wearing safety glasses. I know they suck to wear, but the eye you save may be your own. He lived with one eye for 25 years before he passed. All because he was too lazy to wear safety glasses.
It seems like a lot of trouble to go through to use flex with big bends like that. Why not just do rigid? It lasts twice as long and the air flow is so much better. Flex is supposed to be for long straight runs idk why ppl bend it. Not hating just wondering why?
Flex is well... flexy making it ideal for tight awkward spaces and I would say rigid is more ideal for straight long runs with its unrestrictiveness and it, itself is long and straight with much less need for support.
@GreatScottHomes43 rigid is better for long straight runs all I'm saying is that the flex buckles in the middle when it's bent on a hard corner because the insulation inside it will dig into the inside pipe. It's not intended for tight bends. If it's for convenience it's better to use flex up to the 90, connect it to a rigid 90 for the turn and then connect that rigid 90 back to flex for the straight run that follows. Using flex for a tight 90 restricts the airflow. I'm pretty sure it specifies that on the directions on the packaging
Sure will! I have some sweet plans for flush mounted access panels to furnace and the smaller knee wall access, along with some cabinet style shaker doors for the closet!
Make sure that at least one of the windows when opened allow 5.2 Square feet of opening space, also the window sill cannot be higher than 42 inches from the floor. Finally for the room to be considered an actual bedroom on a real estate listing it must have a closet. Otherwise it is just a bonus room or office space.
Recently stood inspection and was trying to get away with existing window sizes up there, to keep it short I’ll be installing a larger window ahah. 2nd story and up need to be 5.7 sqft. appreciate your input on everything bro 🤙🏻
Just found out in Texas if you dont have a window and a closet, it is not considered a bedroom. It is an extra room and can effect the resale of the home since you can not count it as such by a margin of 10 to 20k, depending on your area.
Good to know, I tried to get away with a smaller window to avoid a bunch of work and he caught it now I have to figure out how to install a larger window in order for it to be a bedroom… 👎🏻
really good points of view for showing your perfect work and a lot of skills for this. About the chimney, on my area your are completely illegal for dont have a gap of 10cm all around the exterior of the bricks where you can't add any type of flammable material like wood or others. the void on the floor and roof is filled with concrete and use rockwool-like insulation too.
@@GreatScottHomes43 Too bad I can’t post videos or pictures here in the comments so I can show you how it’s done but not bad for your first time though
great video, gives me some ideas for my cabin. When it comes to the chimney, here in Norway, regulations say at least two sides of it has to be free/open for inspection purposes. So we can't frame them in like you are doing here.
That is actually very interesting and a pretty good idea, only downside would be how this chimney runs through 3 levels to get to here that would be a nightmare to keep exposed ahah. It is exposed on 2 sides from furnace / utility side in the attic and full access in basement. Top and bottom would be my biggest concerns for inspection anyways.
really professional video man, going to watch the rest of them while I'm working tomorrow. I have to replace the haphazard knee walls in my own attic and am going to steal that technique for angle ripping the top plates. I like your idea of actually supporting some of the roof with the knee walls (belt and suspenders). My house was built in 1906, and the rafters sit on top of a double-3/4" board, which then sits on the attic floor joists. And then I guess the knee wall (unintentionally) might transfer *some* of the roof load, but the top plat for the current knee wall is literally just a floorboard and the knee wall studs are not directly underneath the rafters. Crazy how things were built "back then", so I'm doing everything I can to make it last another 125 years
Thank you! Yeah, they just built with what they had back then and there weren’t exactly any codes aha. There were some very “interesting” framing techniques throughout this 1900 build. Good luck on yours!
People usually change clothes in a bedroom, and so they want a place to put their clothes, and a closet is a popular option for that, therefore bedrooms do need closets. Normally you'd want to hang the clothes, but those closets are too short for that, so you might want an armoire up there if it fits. Alternatively, a chest of drawers and just fold your clothes. Thinking about the chest of drawers, it occurred to me that you could fill some of that closet space with custom built in drawers instead. That might be cool. The whole room is cool though, and I think it's going to turn out really nice.
I’m not sure if that was supposed to be funny but thank you for the chuckle.. I meant from a legality standpoint for when it’s a rental unit and if I ever sell this place. I do plan on having a clothing rod in that closet for short items to hang and maybe some other shelving.
@@GreatScottHomes43 Just a little humor was intended. 🙂 I don't know about New Hampshire laws, but I don't think closets are legally required in most places, if anywhere. Studio apartments don't always have them. Your local housing authority should be able to tell you. 🤔
I kinda like the music during the time-lapse . Other than in the intro , didn't see much music and talking going on. Watching you crossbreak with a paint scraper was interesting. I can't say I've ever seen it done that way.😆 I'll give you points for using metal for one, and neatness always counts. Even though there are design flaws, i bet it performs a lot better than some of the absolute garbage octopuses 🐙 I've seen in my day. Good job!
Looks Great! Definitely a some great craftsmanship. A few major flaws on the duct design and the way you attached the coil to the furnace. First off is the RA , not good to blank it off like that especially with AC involved. Next the way you attached the coil to the furnace would be better if you had made yourself one of those nice transitions. The supply looks pretty good, hopefully for your sake you did the numbers . Ductulaters help
Thank you! Appreciate the input. You’re 100% correct the return size is below the minimum by one inch in both dimensions kinda keeping my fingers crossed on that one, but I don’t think it will matter. Per the installation instructions the coils permitted to mount straight to furnace with no transition but I did make a very small offset to help in that regard. I had some help with sizing and all supplies have dampers to be balanced later.
Did you read the instructions dude? There's a big section in there about horizontal left and right installations about required transitions when evaporator width is larger than furnace. Be careful with putting ducts directly on to end caps, bad balance and static issues, velocity and static are not the same thing however they affect each other. Trunks lines you would want to come out of the sides of trunk, the 8" side.
Appreciate the input, the coil’s installation instructions allow for no transition but as you saw I made a tiny one to help a little. Yeah, the supply on the very end was intentional. With that particular supply being significantly longer than all the others, I wanted to steal as much static pressure as possible to actually help balance later. I’m actually not to sure about the take offs on the smaller dimension of trunk, could you elaborate?
25 year hvac guy here. Does look good for not being a pro, but looks arent everything. you should NEVER blank off return of unit. they are sized that way for a reason. and then putting a 14" flex only is no good. not only will furnace sound like a freight train but it will screw up static pressure of ducting and likely shorten the life of the system. should have a 16" or better yet 18" and 24x30 return intake. not sure where youre located but here in La. with our high humidity, heat exchanger would rust prematurely and compressor would likely have a short and miserable life
It’s simple and makes sense, but I’ve never had a reason to think about pipe protection like that so I feel like I learned something today, hell yea brother
14” return isn’t very big. Not sure what your tunnage is. Hopefully with the one for the bonus room you’ll have enough return. Your work is excellent though. I’d hire you for sure!
@@GreatScottHomes43 awesome. That sounds good. Be sure to check your fan speed on the furnace. It looks like that one probably maxes out at two tuns but it doesn’t hurt to read the manual. Again, great work on this system.
You did a good job but one question I have is your duct work sized to the size of your equipment.this is an important step as the static pressure is right. Been doing HVAC/Sheetmetal mechanic for almost 40 years.instead of buying your duct work at the supply house you can go to a Sheetmetal shop with a list and they can make it for you.
I would tighten those zip ties with some linesmens and tape those flex connection or mastic them if your not going to use a gun….you don’t want any air leakage may cause condensation
Awesome work! keep it up and your channel is going to blow up man! - Can i ask how you were able to determine what size unit / air handler you needed and what size and type ducts?
Thank you so much! There was never a formal manual j or anything done for this apartment it was just sq footage based. From what little knowledge I have you have to screw up pretty bad for a unit to be so over or under sized, that’s it problematic. As for duct sizing I would recommend watching another video specifically for it, not enough space in the comments for that topic, but as for individual supply ducts, for the most part are all slightly over sized with dampers so I can perfectly balance the system later. I did bounce a few things off an hvac friend which helped me sleep at night ahah. 80kbtu furnace and 2 ton ac.
I use the Bosch foam jigsaw blade to cut this kinda stuff, it works out great. Also how are you addressing the thermal bridging on the rafters that aren’t covered in insulation?
A forth layer across the face of all the rafters would have been ideal, but it would have left unwanted air gaps in between. Also at the end of the day it’s an added cost, going to be a rental unit, and consumed more precious head room.
Hey you have a very good eye, I like it.. the outside walls of the attic are not load bearing due to the existing 1900 framing there was no ridge beam and adding one wasn’t an option. Engineer and I came up with the idea of tying the bottom of all rafters together with structural coil strap at the bottom just below subfloor and routed into top of floor joists turning the whole floor into essentially a beam in tension.
This unit was “livable” and I didn’t plan on taking it very far so I had the system slapped in. After peeling a few layers back I slowly discovered how bad this house really was and got to total gut and reframe. Now I put the same unit back in but a way better install. You commented under another’s comment maybe repost this as someone else may have the same question.
