Added the low tech hose degas pressure gauge per your instructions.👍🏻 Came back to watch this tutorial on what are normal and abnormal pressures. Excellent video. This is a must watch video for all 6.0 owners. Thank you.
This is where a larger catch can would be beneficial to run in line just to have those gases collected and filtered before exiting. My Catch can is DIY made of a 4" PVC end cap for the bottom then a 4" clean-out coupler and screw-in cap. 1" line ID into a 90% coupler facing Down with a piece of well-perforated 1/2 " tube 4.5" long to make the perforations I used a 1/4" drill and directed the gases down to the bottom and throughout the canister then a perforated plate 1.5" from the bottom of the canister to make a collection chamber. Then three SS pot scrubbers stacked to the exit of the can with a 3/8 ball check in the bottom of the end cap to make a drain. This is held in place on the frame with 2 4.5" "U bolts. This is quite effective and does not restrict airflow from the crankcase through to the exit and out. The exit gasses appear clean. Use some tissue paper as a test on the exit gasses. But if you want to connect it to an exhaust port make sure it is angled to be drawn out with the exhaust. The placement of a one-way valve may be required to stop back pressure returning to the crankcase. I now have much better cold starts and my turbos seem to spin up much better. I have over 500 miles on this now with no sign of trouble. I have yet to clean out the cooler. But the weekend is hear😊
Just bought a Dremel 8260. My existing 12-year-old Bosch drill/driver batteries fit perfectly in the Dremel and vice versa. There's no need for any modifications or removal.
Thanks for the info, im doing this repair and the STC fitting an ipr screen this morning. I was going to attempt to replace the upper o.Ring with the injector in head but thought it was too risky.Having the old sea clip snap off and fall into the engine.So i'm pulling them all out individually.
Unfortunately, they just re-released the replacement batteries on the Bosch side (Bat414) and they got rid of those cap release tabs on the bottom. I was just about to buy a battery and decided to look at your video again and compared it to the product that picked up off the shelf. Those tab openings are gone.
just got my package of nipple cups for my 2003 F250 oil rail came with all eight nipple cups all the O-rings the tool I ordered it Sunday night at 3 PM had it Monday morning by 1 o'clock at my doorstep best service ever already installed them in my truck very easy to install to work with and they work awesome just as they should best ones on the market hands-down spend the extra money on the HHC diesel nipple cups an tool dont buy the oem one
They are still using as of today 10-17-23 copper spray on there headgaskets and even after providing them documentation in print from the Ford shop manual stating specifically copper spray should NOT be used they say they did nothing wrong... I had to do headgaskets on a customers truck after only 40 miles of driving... I have specialized in Ford diesels for the last 20 years and have never see a company so Arrogant even after providing them proof they were doing it wrong.. beware!
This is not the 2nd sensor being replaced. The 2nd sensor is located in the rear of the transmission to the left of the ATF fuel cap. Might need a flashlight to find it, but it’s an easy fix since there’s no need to remove anything. Just fish your arm in there. Hope this helps anyone who is lost like I was with misleading videos. This is a great video, but it’s for the 4th sensor.
Dude like your video but that WAYYY over pressure is NOT good. Unless you have the aftermarket pump pressure relief kit installed, thats trans might be a grenade. Over 400psi spikes and you have capability to be blowing/grenading internal component and possibly the case.. I'm glad you tried a different gauge but they're both wrong. You can't trust either number. Transmission Guage kits are like $50-$80, just buy the right scale 0-800 or 0-1000psi
I just replace my nipple cups and orange and was worried that the prongs were not good because my nipple cup was still moving but I can see in your video that even after your replacement you still were able to move this part. My old prints were stiff and when crushed held that shape as the new ones popped back to original shape. Thank you for the video
I'm new to Dremels, but this thing has been great. ru-vid.comUgkxfPgcZ5_Cl0HDUKkMJAKde11YKQZVgMoR The variable speed is awesome and the cordless aspect makes it so easy to work with. I am constantly finding uses for it that make tasks easier. Recently I put in a new deadbolt on one of our doors. I knew I had to enlarge the hold where the deadbolt goes into the door frame. At first I thought I would have to get a big router and figure out how to use it for that, but then I rermembered we have the dremel. I was able to enlarge the hole almost as easy as if I was drawing with a pen. It's also great for grinding our dog's nails done and so many other household tasks.
Making use of the ru-vid.comUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
Hey does everybody notice how they only had oil on the one hhc nipple cup not the other once their scamming you I wouldn't buy them from from hhc you're better off going dealer these things leak just as bad as anything else if not worse it's a crap design
I was driving home late, about 1:30am. had to cut through a dangerous part of the community in my e350 super duty,, as I shifted into third a bang was heard from my 5R110W, no more power to the wheels in forward or reverse. I had to abandon the truck until morning. by the time I returned the following day the truck was ransacked, the windows broken. clowns designing then assemble these low quality and unreliable vehicle's
It's hard to find reliable glass guy these days, they all seem to not care about their customers or their quality of work. I miss the days when guys took pride in their work.
Do you have to remove that pressure plate Out of the transmission to to remove the sir noid out of the transmission can you do it all in while the transmission together without the pan being on it
I look at booth few days ago just renewed a battery like that just the bottom plate you can replace also interchange the batterys in ya bosh and dremel with 18650 Samsung 40T and get more amps and also 3100mah
I tried to do this test with all the same stuff except I just had a circular tire pressure gauge, am I an idiot or do you need a universal pressure gauge? Will any gauge work as long as you hook it up correctly is my question?
You can also remove that little breather box from the valve cover, split it apart, and turn the outlet upside down and fasten a piece of hose right to it. Just like on a 7.3.
I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the 6.0L engine. I'm having trouble with my radio, gauges, and windows shutting off at the same time frequently. I know that this is a common issue with this model truck but I can't seem to find the problem, but when I wiggle my gear shift everything starts back working again. By the way, the gear shift is new, I thought that was causing the problems but I was wrong. Do anyone have any idea what could be the cause of this problem?
my 8220 came with a charger that looks identical to the bosch charger..... the battery was poop; bought 2 generic batteries and they kinda saved the usability of the thing for me, nearly thought I had bought into a gimmick
Trying to fix a problem I’m having with my 08 powerstroke. Seems as if the linkage is bent or something because after replacing shift cable from gear selector to transmission I still can’t get it up past D. Have D 3 2 1 but nothing more. Can manually get transmission into N R P with pair of channel lock pliers manually at linkage
