Sorry for my delayed response, I was in New Mexico at a tournament. To quickly answer your question = the bullet touches the bottom of the grooves. Longer answer = land diameter is slightly smaller than the groove diameter which "grips" the bullet making it spin to the twist rate of the rifle. Bullets usually measure slightly larger than the groove diameter. Otherwise some of the gasses/pressure would escape around the sides of the bullet. For example: on a 30 cal barrel the land diameter (sometimes called minor diameter) is roughly .300". The groove diameter (major) is .308. 30 cal bullets measure .308x. Please keep in mind there are machining tolerances that may influence those numbers slightly. Hope this helps
@10:57 re the black that you thought was carbon from fouling, I always thought it was carbon from the steel itself. Kind of like when polishing metal the polish will turn black as the metal becomes shiny. I could be wrong.
Thanks for the video. I shoot a little VFS in Virginia. Panda action, Krieger barrel, Kelbly stock, and a Leupold 45. I use Bart's 112's, N130, and Fed 205m. BTW, I thought I was the only one who didn't use a tuner. LOL!
You're welcome. Hope you enjoyed it and maybe was able to add something to your current process. Yea, I have a tuner on my LV 30 BR, but not on this or my Hunter rifle. Thanks for the comment.
Ive noticed that on my 220 Russian brass after its been neck turned and fired 4 to 5 times. I M getting a donut on the inside of the neck. I can drop a bullet in it but has resistance... would you suggest a inside neck reamer?
Has this neck been expanded? (for example to 6 mm) Generally inside donuts form below where the bullet is seated and really don't affect anything. If your rifle is shooting the way you want, I would leave them alone. If the donut is interfering with the seating depth or neck tension then yes you can purchase an inside reamer to take them out. You will have to measure very precisely as to only get the donut - not the neck walls. Caution - You might want to remeasure for tension and clearance after you do this - just in case you took off more than just the donut. Hope this helps.
@ctdshooting yes been expanded. Yes the donut it right at the flat base line of my bullet. I just noticed when I placed a bullet base down in the case. I had a lil resistance but I don't think it's interfering with seating depth
You're probably good to go and if the rifle is shooting good - then I would no mess with it. In my experience the donut (both outside and inside) were formed during expansion. When you outside neck turn you take the outside donut off. When I make the 30 BR brass I get the same thing. I have different inside neck reamers to just barely skim the inside of the neck which removes this inside donut. However, many great shooters (some Hall of Famers) don't mess with the inside donut. Hope this helps.@@redraiderreloading7612
what distance did you place your flag(s) at when shooting that and if more than 1 which did you place most of your attention to, specifically when you were looking for 2 bars and tail at 4, etc? thanks! Impressive shooting at 200.
Thanks for the question. This video shows and explains my initial placement. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wEHCrR_umxs.html Specifically at 11:24. But...each range has it's important spots. In terms of priority - I wish there was a simple answer for you. Can't miss your first two flags - but each range will have it's most important flags. Experience is the only help there - that is why locals always have an advantage. Hope this helps.
Wow! I'm really new to this whole precision thing. Still trying to make the most of what I've got in 22lr. I've never heard of your caliber or seen your rifle ever. However, your front rest and rear bag, I understand. I really thought there would be a different scope setup. Man, you are getting results! That's all that matters! Nice video, very informative! I know you put a lot into making your videos, I can appreciate that! Subbed!
@ctdshooting here in South Texas summer makes for some pretty rough conditions for filming. Everything overheats. It's tough to lose all your downrange footage!
@@chrislang5659 I read ya...I've never been there during that time of year, but have heard stories. I need to learn a lot about camera placement and securing the camera at target. I'm planning on trying again tomorrow (supposed to have sustained winds in the 30's) Should make for an entertaining video - if I can keep equipment from falling over.
I'm using the BIB 112 - 7. It is built off the .925 jacket. I'm just under 3,100 ft/sec. Using 34.7 gr of H4198. I've shot 118-10 but nothing higher. To be honest, not sure how high I could go in the 17 twist. But....I do know a person who knows. Let me know if you want me to find out.
@@bobrau1 Most of the competitors that I shoot with are using 1/17 or 1/18 with 112 to 118 gr bullets. For longer/Heavier bullets a faster twist rate would be needed.
If you clean your brass well, after knocking the primer out, whether wet or dry method, do you still get that debris off the neck and primer pocket? I tumble with rice and two cups of Nu Finish car polish added.
Hi Hal. I always make sure the necks are clean before resizing (I don't want the fouling to get on the neck bushing). Primer pockets...I really don't know if it makes a difference. I clean them just because I have control over that variable, but if I forget before priming, I don't worry about it. Hope this answers your question.
Thanks for the question. H380 has been the most accurate - however it has a small window - so I stopped using it. I have been having great success with R-15 for the past 4 seasons with 52 gr bullets. I want to try a few newer powders this year to see if they can beat R-15, but I doubt they will. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the positive comment and question. Bill Dittman made the poles. They are super nice. Craig Nagel also makes some really nice flag poles. I am hesitant to give their contact information here, but if you want more details please email me at ctdshooting@gmail.com. Thanks!!
Sorry for the delayed reponse. For some reason this went to my held section. Not necessarily. If it is working for you - keep doing it. The two major drawbacks of excessive headspace are case growth and work hardening. Hope this helps
Love learning from your posts. Is there a bullet seater tool which pushes down on the ogive of the bullet to ensure accurate depth? (Since tips of bullets can vary) I'm shooting 30-06 caliber
Thanks for the question. Most currently made seating stems (found in the seater die itself) contact the ogive. However, you should still check with a bullet to make sure. I'm not sure if that answered your question good enough. If not, please send me an email (ctdshooting@gmail.com) and I'll try to explain further. Or...I could make a quick video if you would rather prefer that.
There were 2 rifles. The green one is my Light Varmint competition rifle chambered in 30BR. But, I'm guessing you were asking about the tan colored rifle. That is a Defiance Tenacity Action in a McMillian Game Warden stock with a Lilja barrel chambered in 6 mm Rem AI. Timney trigger and Sightron S-Tac scope. The current load pushes a 95 gr pill around 3,500 ft/sec. It's pretty nice. There will be an article about it in Varmint Hunter magazine next Fall. Thanks for asking.
Lots of useful information. Somethings I've never thought about. Even though I am not a 'dedicated' bench rester, this will still be applicable to the matches I do shoot. Thanks I will follow your channel.
You're welcome. I am a big believer that everything has to work together to achieve tight groups. Wind flags are a big piece of that puzzle. If there are any other topics you would like covered send me an email. Have a great summer. Stanley ctdshooting@gmail.com
May be a dumb question but I'm learning into my second year. How do I measure my neck clearance or diameter to achieve my 2 thousands I hear this alot. Also carbon on the neck is from the neck not trapping gas or in time. Thank you for your reply or any comments welcome.
Absolutely not a dumb question. Neck clearance is the OBM (covered in this video and in depth in this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xs4h_zscjVc.html) subtracted from the neck chamber dimension. For any of my custom barrels, the gunsmith tells me what the chamber dimension is. For my over-the-counter hunting barrels you can use a chamber cast or you can use the SAMMI specs. Personally, for hunting barrels, I use the quick check method for neck clearance (roughly 3:10 in this video) For hunting barrels I feel that is good enough because there are much bigger pieces to the precision puzzle. Now, neck tension....that's a different story and much easier to control. Hope this helps
Thank you for the question. I am assuming you are asking about the resizing mandrel (many times called the button or expander ball) and not a turning mandrel. I only use bushing dies. When a decapping rod has the button on it, I take it off before using. However, the measurements would still follow the same process because resizing is completed (which ever way it is performed) before you measure the resized portion of the neck. I have never tried to buy different buttons to adjust the neck tension, so I can not comment on that. I will add this to my "to do" list of videos. Thank you for the question and suggestion. Stanley
I form 7.62/39 to 6.5 gren. I’m seating the projectile out to almost jam. And going just above the bottom of the range. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks and God bless
I do not have experience with your particular case - so I am hesitant to give specific advice. My first question - is there a big difference in case measurements after the first fireforming compared to after the 2nd firing? If not, then your current process may be doing the job. However the base of the case being tight against the bolt face is a fundamental that needs to happen. I don't know if "almost jam" is enough. Give me a couple days to ask this question to some of my shooting buddies that shoot the Grendel. I'll reply back to this question. Thank you
I heard back from a fellow competitor who did exactly what you are writing about. He does not recommend it. He said the LR primers can not take the pressure needed. He also mentioned Precision Reloading has 6.5 Grendel brass (Starline) in stock right now for roughly $60/100 pieces. Plus the 6.5 Grendel brass has SR primer pockets. Hope this helps.
Appreciate video. Chasing Perfection is an obsession. Guess folks who shoot in high dollar matches strive for that due to money & fame. Experience taught middle road common sense works. Find what works best for you, for your level of shooting. Seeking perfection in anything turns the activity from pleasure into worry & despair. Meeting factory MOA with my standard rifle & reloads floats my boat...and we sleep well at night...😊
Very well wrote. Thanks for taking the time to comment. You might really appreciate this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CFRj1UQkX5k.html
Ya, Brake Kleen does leave a deposit on what you spray it on, can't obviously see it, but it is there, that's why they came out with electrical cleaners that does not leave a deposit. People tried to use it with cast bullet moulds, and soon found that out, that's why they also say to use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean moulds as well, mostly because it's cheaper than the electrical cleaner.And even though moly is slippery, it is actually harder than the barrel steel.
Thank you for the positive feedback. Wildcats and AI are fun, but can be equally frustrating - which in a weird way, is part of the fun. Here is my website that may help on some different topics if needed. www.ctdshooting.com/ Good luck with everything. Keep me posted.
You need to bring the volume up to match other YT video nowadays. They stopped audio compressing all the videos. You're being played at the same volume I have been watching all day, and I can't hear a thing.
@@ctdshooting yes I did as well looked at some of your other titles, I will be back to view as this topic is something I have been working on. I need better groups at 300 yds so these points make a difference
I have used Imperial sizing wax for this for many years. The idea behind this is to decrease the possibility of case head separation in future firings by not letting case walls grab sidewalls of chamber and stretching the brass unevenly. When fire forming brass it is critical to have case head up against bolt face and bullet in riflings. This set up and a very very very light lube on case will allow case to form to your chamber without uneven stretch of brass. If you are having problems with case head separations after 1 or 2 firings or get donuts in your cases necks after fire forming then it could be that you my need to try this process. In this video you were also told that he was shooting 1.5 grs less than he would be normally shooting , indicating a reduced load. He also told you that he takes ONE piece of of brass and tests it to make sure everything is working as planned. DO UNDERSTAND that this process puts all the presser from firing the cartridge on the bolt face with no help from the case walls. I dont think that he or I are telling you to shoot like this every time you go out shooting. The chamber should be cleaned of all lube prior to shooting standard rounds.
