Hello to all. This channel is dedicated to RC. The goal is to provide videos that can be helpful to those thinking about getting into the hobby or are new to the hobby. Videos will be uploaded with teardowns of RTR models, builds, recommendations, setups, and other RC related information.
After January 1, 2023, I will upload videos about once a month usually on a Sunday.
From time to time I may upload videos Monday, Wednesday, and Friday to keep current, or more than one video at a time due to a race weekend or content request. This will be in an effort to release content in a timely fashion. But I shall try to release one at a time once per month (unless it is a race weekend).
I use my personal account to subscribe. Therefore, I do not have any subscriptions through this account. It makes it easier to manage content, and respond to comments in this channels.
Unfortunately, I made the commitment to a set of factory five 3.0's when they went on that sale last year. Will these supra wheels fit those that you area aware of? Any ideas you have for a solution on those cars to get some better performance would be appreciated. I've tried several things and just not happy...
That was a really good sale though. It is just about what you want to do with it. I would start with this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-prOtYO1p-nI.html I would also lock the front diff. You can also consider: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-phNn35u3sLI.html
Just watched part one and two. I recently upgraded my infraction 3s with metal geared diffs front and back (pinion and spur), and the diffs are much tighter than the factory ones. I haven’t had the chance to give the car a rip, but I was wondering how this will affect the car. Seems like tighter diffs are exactly what I want and need. Cause I just want to drift and power slide, no precision driving at all. 😊 Thanks so much for this video, it really deserves much more views and likes!!
Too much steering car slides. 1. Thicker diff oil or solid shaft front. 2. Lower diff fluid rear. 3. Harder shore front tire. 4. Harder front sway bar 5. Harder front spring. There’s so much you can do to fix that back end.
I have a follow up to this. Springs did all the difference. Stiffer in the front mainly. Extracrispy ran his after tuning it and it podiumed with the top cars.
If I'm not mistaken, the only thing needed to convert one of these into a Slash, is a Slash body, front and rear bumpers, and a different clipless body mount set that matches the Slash body. Then, depending on running conditions you may want to remove the internal shock limiters and change springs/oil/piston rates. I'm tempted to buy and convert one myself honestly. Would be great fun for my backyard track.
@@telecomandorc Sorry, i was sleeping while typing that. In one of your other videos you mentioned that you were going to run the Helix in VTA. I was wondering how that worked for you? I have an MC5 and i'm not thrilled with it.
@@warren6814 It is good, but it needs to rev. Make sure to gear it a bit lower. Although, compared to the MC5 you might be around the same gearing but the Fantom has more RPM. But Fantom is the way to go. But do not get too cought up on motors. Unfortunatly, VTA is the class most people cheat in if tech inspections are not strict. So you might be going up against Outlaw motors. I told the owner of a track once and ran an Outlaw myself to see if I could match the top guys on the straights and... surprise surprise... I did match them. But the Fantom is the best in my books.
With the stock system? You cannot get both. You either gear down (larger spur or smaller pinion) for more accelerations, but it will peak fast and have low top end. Or you can gear high (smaller spur or larger pinion) but it would accelerate slower but eventually have more top end. If you have a chance, consider: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8nTBMHc2eIk.html Do you have a Titan 12T or a BL-2s?
@@josephybarra3555 Gearing still applies. But a leaner mixture will yield more power and more speed but higher temps. Do not exceed 275F. Another options is the O.S. replacement for the TRX3.3. Unless you know someone who will tune your 3.3 by working on the ports in the sleeve.
Anyone, chime in. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Some thoughts: You have a 72T spur. Have you considered running the 69T. Try the 69T spur and a 35T pinion. Lock out the slipper if you are running a slipper. Slippers will slow you down a tenth or more per lap.
@telecomandorc I don't currently have a 69. I thought about trying that but they don't have one at LHS I'd have to order one, I may do that in the future. For now I just have a 72, so not sure what to try for a pinion with 21.5 I also only have the slipper but I'm racing on High grip clay, I thought the direct drive was more for carpet?
@@MX-CO The slipper is more to save the idler gear. If you take a jump the go to throttle before the rear tires land, you can break the idler without a slipper. Carpet is higher grip than clay in my opinion since we run pins on the tires. You can always torque it down more. See what the other guys are running.
Any suggestions on what gearing to use on a 2wd team associated buggy with a 21 5 motor? Im switching from 17.5 to 21.5 and im not sure what gearing i should use
Are you doing the switch because the class is 21.5T. If not, stick with the 17.5T. You that is a 21.5T class, that is awesome. Makes for a bit closer racing. I am not sure. It depends on temperature. What Pinion are you running with the 17.5T? You can probably go up 30%. Say you run a 17T, you can start with a 24T. Or if you run a 25T try a 30T. Then take the temperature after five laps. The adjust or run it longer until you can run 5 minutes between 150-160F. If you go over 160F gear down if you are at 130F gear up.
@telecomandorc I'm switching to a 21.5 class just because I'm new and 17.5 is very fast, and I crash a lot. I'm just trying to get some experience in 21.5, and then I'll likely move back up to 17.5., both classes are very competitive in my area. (Whip it RC Raceway in Reno Nevada)
I bought a 17.5 surpass V6 prior to getting a 21.5 and the 17.5 rips, it's very fast. I'm hoping the 21. 5 will be fast for a 21.5 as well. I haven't tried it yet
@@MX-CO If you already bought the 21.5T, go for it. If not, just drom the timing on the 17.5T to 35 degrees. The 21.5T Fantom does about 2900Kv at 48-50 degrees. The 17.5T will have about the same Kv at about 35-37degrees. Try turning the timing down on your 17.5T fist. Or see if your Tx will allow you to set Ch2 to 80%.
I'm entering a 21.5 class, so I think I have to run a 21.5 to race that class, I have both motors now. But at least they are cheaper than most. I got the 17.5 and The 21.5 both for about the price of one high end phantom or another high end certified motor. And the 17 5 rips, I haven't yet tried the 21.5
The fastest car in the 21.5 class at our local track is running a fantom, that car is visably faster than the rest and looks faster than some cars in the 17.5 class. Some think he's cheating somehow, i cant say for sure one way or the other.
I thought I had replied to this post, or maybe someone else asked the same questions. It is always possible someone is cheating, but Fantom motors are awesome. I ran a 25.5T in F1 and that motor just blow past others. The 21.5T motor I ran was also similar but not as much as the 25.5T. I would have to see it. I way this because I ran the Fantoms for a while. But some guys still blew some of us away. So I ran an outlaw motor and slowed down a bit in the infield and tried to time the straight to enter at a similar time, and bingo. I shared my "experiments" with the owner and my suspicions were confirmed. The owner cracked down on a few and they were upset. Especially one who saw my motor. 😆 Maybe I will make a video someday talking about shenanigans.
I have heard the same. And it is possible. But the rotor specs on the Surpass I bought was just better. Then again, that does not mean much as other companies could be requesting different rotor specs for different goals.
Party doesn't end until the last person leaves, so your are just in time. You will need the TRA5853X. the shafts of the two models are different diameter.
Thanks for the video! My son is using is 4 Tec for TC races and with the wheels the club provides, plus the modified suspension from the previous owner, we are needing to remove these "disc brake hubs" and add a set of extended wheels hexes to help the rear tires have more clearance from the suspension. Do you have a video showing how to install the new wheel hex?
I have not done F1 in carpet. Only asphalt. And my pick is Fantom Helix RS 25.5T. I sum up my thoughts in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VW5x9GZIRiQ.html
I bought the rocket v6 motor and very impressed with the numbers on paper. Gonna swap the actinium v5 for the rocket v6 and see what the real world test results show on the track
@@MX-CO I think it is. The Fantom is better. but someone with more skill and a V6 will beat a Fantom. But a skilled driver with a Fantom will take the field.
There was a guy at our local club race tonight in the 21.5 2wd intermediate class running a helix rs, he said it was an alpha I don't see that listed anywhere, but anyway this guy's car was so so fast, it was faster than most of the 17.5 classes. He was clearing a big quad that I couldn't clear with a 17.5 . Some think he is cheating some how. He always has the fastest car in whatever classes he is in. Seems a little fishy.. Would you think he is cheating somehow, or is there a logical reason to win easily by 49 plus seconds? Is there a reason any 21.5 should be that much faster than the rest? I think there are others in his race with fantom motors as well, and he laps them with the same motor supposedly
It could be both. Now, I am a fan of Fantom RS motors. My 25.5 was a rocket. My 21.5 was awesome. I could pull on other cars and other drivers though I had something going on. They were just awesome. Now, for VTA I did take an outlaw motor and run it. I would take my time to get to the straight and then try to match people on the straight. This is how I found many people were cheating. I did tell the owner what I was doing. The thing is the Fantom RS is truly and "alpha". So it is hard to tell. I am not sure how large your track is. 49 sec is between 2 and 3 laps here. That is a lot. The guy could be running the outlaw version. Or the guy is a pro driver and has his car dialed.
@@telecomandorcHis car is clearly faster but he isn't a pro driver, there are much better drivers at the track. But his car is very clearly faster on the straights, and clears jumps that no one else in the class can.
Great video as always. Do you recommend this Surpass V6 over the HW G4R, Fantom Helix or Trinity slot machine? Someone recommended this motor over those and im curious what your thoughts are? After watchinf your video it seems the fantom is the king on paper. Wonder what would run best on indoor carper. I guess only one way to find out lol
For 21.5T I would get whatever cost less. This motor is really underrated. When it comes to the HW G4, Fantom RS, and Surpass Rocket V6 it will be all about driver and setup. I would get the best deal out there. I have only used then on asphalt, so let me know what you think about them on carpet.
Contol arms are diffrent and axles are shorter on the no prep, trying to convert a no prep to sct while keeping the camaro body to make a short course camaro.
You would need custom offset wheels. But I doubt it will work. The only thing I can think of is mounting the body up high. You can always keep the buggy arms and axles and put SCT wheels while lifting the body.
I’m going to build the electric unassembled slash kit with my boys to bash around with. It’ll be their car so I thought I’d get myself my first nitro. Can’t decide if I get the rustler,or get the nitro slash. I don’t really want to have the same car; the slash in electric and nitro, that’s why I’m looking at the rustler. But a lot of people have said that the slash is better than the rustler. Which nitro would you recommend I get knowing that I’ll have and built the electric slash to use with my boys. Thanks!
If the Slash build kit is the old version: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9lihqpwAwUg.html That is video 1 of the series I have. Now to your question. It depends on the surface you will drive it one. Think of the Rustler as a short Slash. The Rustler has a 2.5 engine which is alright. The Slash has the better 3.3. I would not trade the 3.3 for the 2.5. The advantage the Rustler has is the body. It helps keep the inside less dirty if you run on dusty surfaces. That's about it. The Slash has a better front bumper just in case. The Rustler does not flip as easily. I would not Slash. The Revo 3.3 is fun too and has better clearance over grass. If you are running on grass, any Slash 2WD is a bad idea. Between the nitro Rustler and Slash, I would go Slash. Plus if you ever get board with the Nitro Slash you can always turn it into a "muscle car" like I did. Here is the basic build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1zRk-gT6_2U.html
@@telecomandorc thanks for the response. I’ve been watching your build series on the slash, thanks for those videos. The one I just ordered has the new brushless motor and lipo batteries. We would be running it on street, dirt (softball fields, dirt RC track) and lots of grass. I do like the design of the rustler; how it has the tires on the outside, and its CG is a bit lower which helps it not get airborne as frequently or often during the speed runs. I do know it has the smaller 2.5 engine, but reviews I’ve watched have said it’s sufficient for the size of the truck, since it is a good amount smaller than the slash. Makes sense why they put the 3.3 in the slash.
@@ericmanning8010 That makes sense. A few notes. The HCG is far better on grass as it does not bog down as much due to less surface area scrubbing. The nitro engine will die fast on softball fields if you do not change out the air cleaner after every tank. That fine dust will scratch up the bore. That is a plus of the Rustler body. I really like the new motor (BL-2s) compared to the Titan. The run times are longer and it is a bit faster. Enjoy what you decide to go with. They are all fun one way or another.
Good info. I am glad you went over "blinky". I am building a 4wd buggy and I need electronics. I have the 10bl 120 that I was using for my drift car but i might put it in the buggy for now with a 13.5t. I'll then upgrade/trade out for the Just Stock ESC. Any recommendations for a motor. I was thinking of running the Bandit or the Just stock motor. Any advice would help. Thank you.
They are good motors, but is this a fixed timing class or open 13.5T? If it is open 13.5T and you can run any timing, I would look into a Hobbywing G4 or a Fantom RS. Both of there come out of the box with great rotors. Here is the link to the HW 13.5T: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X2ebQrK6zUM.html If you go into my channel and type 13.5T I think I have done maybe 9 13.5T videos. Feel free to check them out.
@@telecomandorcthat’s what you were talking about at 19 minutes right? I noticed the problem being twitchy in the corners I just got this remote to solve this exact issue as I’m wobbling at top speed mid turn
@@Stoned_Sparky Oh, that sounds more like a bad servo or Rx. I have only had this happen with a bad servo or the TSM (Traxxas) or stabilizers enabled in different models. I have not had this happen with my Futaba but I never run any gyro or stabilizers. If you have a gyro, turn it off and see what it does.
@@telecomandorc it’s a r203gf receiver I didn’t think it had a gyro and the servo is a box shock sr10 servo maybe it could be weak? I had a guy at my track say it’s the steering speed it’s too fast we race pavement oval asphalt if that helps
I just went all out and did metal exhaust and blue dot slicks on my nitro slash. Getting a bel air body ready and gonna drimmel the back bumper a little bit to allow easy body fitment but still keep the switch safe. Fingers crossed no going back now lol gonna be hard to find any competition tho 😂
I think it is best to use the same type of motor most use to keep close racing. I actually thing FTM classes are most fun. If most use Reds, that is the motor to use.
What comes to mind is, is the esc connector connected to the Rx in the correct way or is it accidently flipped? Assuming it is in the correct position, you will need to check the settings and make sure Ch.2 is set to 100% and not at 0%. If that is not it, disconnect the battery and try again.
@telecomandorc it worked great in my arrma kraton. I swapped it into my infraction with a 2700kv tp motor now no throttle. Also after trying to calibrate it when I checked for steering the car accelerated and turned at the same time,I never touched the throttle. Very strange.
@@mikedizzle5273 Oh... Check the Tx. You may have connected your servo to the Bsub2 port or B port and the esc to Ch.1. Move them up one. The first for is B which is a doppler of Ch.1 usually made to power accessories like a fan. The second port is true Ch.1 and the third port is Ch.2.
T4. Spare rollers are very affordable. It is still competitive and spare parts are less money. Although, sometimes you can get a Mugen factory driver built new for about $400. But the Xray is a more durable car.
2:40 should be "this battery here is just two cells in SERIES so just half of this battery here (pointing to the 4S) with four cells in series. I know you can get really discombobulated in your thoughts when doing a video and what comes out of your mouth is definitely not what you meant to say.
