I am going to start a Kawasaki Zx9r E2 project, including a different seat unit, fabricating a seat subframe and paint or wrapping it. Will be having a new exhaust, services and other mechanical info.
Funds are very limited, so please bare with me. I’m new to this “vlogging” thing. I hope to be able to afford a new project bike in the future, to totally strip down and video things along the way.
I might start doing some “how to” videos, ride alongs and video some shows I’ll be going. Hopefully the Isle of Man TT in a couple of years time.
Great video thanks, are the calipers off a triumph sprint rs 955i with the 90mm hole gap as I need to do this caliper swap, and did you use the triumph main mounting bolts or the zx9r bolts that attach to mount on bike , any advice would be much appreciated 👍🏼👌🏼
Starting with, great videos, have now adjusted the valves on my C1 :) Maybe I can ask one thing...? You had purchased a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-9R 1998-2003 Coolant Reservoir Tank, with extra gap for crash pucks bolt, to be able to mount against the frame BR Martin Roos 😁
Starting with, great videos, have now adjusted the valves on my C1 :) Maybe we can ask one thing...? You had purchased a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-9R 1998-2003 Coolant Reservoir Tank, with extra holes for crash pucks, to be able to mount against the frame BR Martin Roos
Hi buddy , just a quick question for you... I actually have the same bike as you and I'm trying to make it presentable after buying it from a buddy who unfortunately slid out on it at slow speed. I'm curious to ask if you have any parts boxed that you swapped out etc , I'm in UK also so easy to post. Give me a shout dude. Ade.
Rear seat cowl, passenger seat and rear passenger pegs. I have a shitty original exhaust (link pipe is butchered). Might be other stuff. If you need help, let me know!
@@8713Thomas aces dude , unfortunately those aren't what I need atm..... I have an issue with the battery not charging which may probably well be a Stator or regulator rectifier problem. I also want to address the scuffs from my buddy having a fall.... most of the plastics are scuffed but repairable , but I'm looking around for right hand mid side fairings atm. I have found full kits at 320£ but I'm skeptical of the quality being Chinese, along with mounting parts. I need mirrors and indicators too, but only the plastic housing part of the assembly. I have bought new lenses , brackets and so on. That should be it , at least until I have a moment of ....... oh **** yeah, forgot about that hahaha. I'm stripping the bike completely down today , so I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the reply dude. Please do keep me posted on what parts you have though..... any other info regarding a wiring diagram would be cool too as I can't seem to find one. Places to buy stuff would be cool or recommended replacements etc. Sorry for the essay. Again , thanks.
@@8713Thomas and think alike :) I'm aware of fowlers , I'll check out the other two sites. Which forum is this, I'm on a few on fb but they are alittle vague as to which country etc.
Hi Tom. I'm going to be needing to do this job soon and was wondering if it's possible to keep the cams attached to the chain via zip tie or something and just raise the cam enough to access the shim buckets ?? This would then save the time of having to re time it, lining up marks etc.. By the way, you need a proper LED light to we can see better on the video this kind if intricate detail.
Yeah, I understand it’s a hard to see video. I do have another video out, in the restoration project of this bike. It’s with the engine out. I haven’t tried it that way, the main reason being, it isn’t that hard and I reckon the cams will just be in the way and be too fiddly. Get yourself on zx-9r.net ! There’s a step by step how to on this job. I followed it and tried to show most of it in my videos. Check my latest valve clearances videos.
Love your videos. Very informative. I am working on a similar tail project taking about a foot off that stock tail on my E2. Mine is set up for drag racing so instead of rising up it sweeps downward for aerodynamics. A bit more like a bobber. Your streetfighter style is killer. This bike is unappreciated. It was way ahead of its time.
Good progress Tom, looking forward to seeing it start up, and eventually on the road again. Have you replaced the radiator? you can get an aftermarket one for just over £100 if I remember right, in black to so would look great with all the work done to this.
I’ve seen them, I wanted one that wasn’t Chinese and they’re a lot more expensive. I’ll keep saving for one as the radiator I have doesn’t leak. I’d just be spending on looks then! Haha
@@8713Thomas Tbh bud, Chinese made ones are likely very good, but this one (linked below in separate comment in case it gets blocked lol), is UK made. It's currently not in stock, but I guess they make them to order as they are probably rare items to sell. Mine is still the original and works fine too, but if I'd put the work in that you had, I'd buy one to make it look like new, still your choice obvs. Might be worth getting in contact and asking at least.
@@HalfdeadRider I’ll have a look when I get home! I hadn’t found one from England, so like you said it would ruin it, after all the work! Cheers buddy! How’s yours getting on?
@@8713Thomas Yea my bike is going well bud, you may have seen that I painted my calipers to match the purple on the bike, done the Tokico in gold, they look great. My tank still needs fixing, but hoping to get some extra cash soon, so hope to get it done finally. It could also do with it having the valve clearances checked, and the CCT reset or replaced as now coming up to 21k miles, doesn't sound too bad though.
@@HalfdeadRider yeah seen your calipers! Good job done there! Hope you used my video to help!? 😜 Have you got the link to that radiator? A fairing tab has rotten off, noticed this afternoon whilst filming! Hahaha
Is there a setting in there for when you over lay the music, cos the music sections are very loud. I have the volume set to a level so I can hear what you're saying and then when the music kicks in, it's like 100 Db.
Hi Tom, excellent progress on the bike. It will be amazing to ride I am sure of it. I recently purchased an E2 and have noticed that it will backfire slightly through one of the carbs, especially when it's cold. I haven't gone any further into it but I have been reading various symptoms online. It may need a carb service/calibration. I hope there isn't anything more significant like engine timing or poor valve seating. I have no service history on the thing so any advice would be appreciated. I also hear the occasional crunch coming from the transmission when stationary, ONLY when the clutch is out and NOT engaged. So when I'm at the lights with clutch free, it will make this quick crunch sound, but when I hold the lever in, it never does it. Have you had any transmission/clutch experience with these bikes to be able to diagnose the possible issue ? I also found that the oil pan has been aluminium welded just beside where the sump plug is. I wonder what happened there for that to have been welded. I hate knowing it's there, so I'm looking to replace the oil pan with a nice clean spare if I can get one for a reasonable price. The bike runs great apart from these. it starts and runs fine and goes through the gears well. I have since stopped using it until I know for sure what's going so I don't risk any potential damage. I have recorded a video of the carb backfire sound. When I upload it on RU-vid I'll share it so others can hear what I'm hearing. I'll have to get a video of the gearbox crunch sound too.
Gday mate, really enjoying your channel. I’ve got an E1 that I’m rebuilding. Just had the frame painted and slowly putting her back together. Which rear sets are you using may I ask? I’ve got a cheapie pair from eBay I’m a bit hesitant to put on
The plating treatment is something I do plan on getting into at some point too. I especially would like to see if I can replicate the original dark oxide Kawasaki use for the majority of their bits and bobs. Is is black zinc or something ? Anyone know ?
That hammer toning is the result of it being too cold in your shed. Metallics react that way when ambient temps are low. Read the data sheet for the paint and you'll see the optimum temperature for application. Just let it dry, sand it flat and reapply when you have the space temp right.
I only just came across your channel Tom. I have two E2 Bikes. Both Firecracker Red/ Purple Mica versions. One is a museum piece I purchased from the original owner 7 years ago. He bought it new and hardly rode it. That bike only has 4,100 KLMs on the ODO. It is a brand new, Mint condition bike and I intend to keep it as a show piece. It is currently in dry storage. You'll probably never find another one like it anywhere. The second one, I purchased just recently for a pretty cheap price and is the one I'll be riding, enjoying and learning more about it mechanically etc. It's in relatively good condition, just needs a tidy up and it will look very presentable. Hoping to learn many new things here, which is why I have subscribed to your channel. I previously owned an Original B1 model ZX9R and kept that for 12 years before selling it. I since regretted doing that and it prompted me to go searching out another one then came across that minty E2 which changed my whole perception of the ZX9R lineage. I did consider the C series, But it reminded me too much of the old B, so the E series it was as it is more closer to the F series. Some say that the E is a bit more desirable than the F. Not sure why though, I've never ridden an F. Anyway, thanks for your videos mate. Regards from Sydney, Australia !
@@8713Thomas Sounds fair mate. You're a braver man than I am lol, but I will have to deep dive into mine at some point. My 2nd E2 bike has 58k Klms on the ODO and I'm not sure if the previous owner had the valve clearances checked. I am very handy and mechanically minded, just never tackled job like this before. Thanks for the videos
@@tonymontana897 I’m thinking of it! I have a colour scheme in mind. Which, every time I look I want it more! Haha. Don’t ask as I want to keep it under wraps for the time being! Surprise people! Haha
Do you have a link to those spacers mate, might put one or two on mine when I get around to fitting my shock I reconditioned. Also if you want, check my latest video on ideas for your crankcase breather, I connected it to the KLEEN air system that I see you removed too, I also shimmed the needle jets, shew one being done in the video.
Yeah, I’ll have a look at that then! Cheers. Got them on eBay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M16-x-20MM-OR-25MM-O-D-303-STAINLESS-STEEL-SPACERS-BUSHERS-COLLAR-BONNET-RAISERS-/293751524683?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 M16, 20mm od in 5mm increments. If that link doesn’t work, just search for m16 spacers.
@@8713Thomas thanks bud 👍 apparently they turn in quicker lifting the rear a bit, some people lower the front a little too, I won't do that though I don't think.
@@HalfdeadRider I have. 5mm. It does turn in quickly. A bit too much might hurt it though. So, I might not lower the front any more. Even though it would look badass. What’s your next job! I’d better subscribe, I didn’t realise I wasn’t! 😂
@@8713Thomas Maybe I'll think to do that when I fit my shock, a small amount each end. My next job will be the shock fitment, sometime soon, might film it, don't film everything like that. I also need to paint my top yoke at some point, and would like to refresh the front forks as don't know if it's ever been done. If you do subscribe, thanks 👍
@@HalfdeadRider have done. I just did a video on my front forks. Not too bad of a job. I also polished my top yolk. Brushed finish. Need a new ignition barrel as it looks terrible and key falls out.
Good to see the process after you told me you were doing the nuts and bolts yourself. And shew us a sneak peak of the current progress, looks awesome so far, will bring my 9 to you when it's done 😁👍
The service manual specifies that you insert the cam chain tensioner before torquing down the cam cap bearings. The haynes manual gets it wrong so please follow the official service manual. If there is any slack in the cam chain the cams will rotate when you torque down the cam cap bearing. So to prevent this from happening you insert just the tensioner body. Thing is to set the ratchet mechanism to 2 clicks less than what it was when you removed it, or, to 5 clicks out if you did not make a note of it. This will take out most of the cam chain slack but leave a little bit that is needed. Once the cam bearing is torqued down, and the tensioner inner is inserted, you can very slowly rotate the timing rotor clockwise and listen for the cam chain tensioner taking the slack back out of the cam chain, this lets you know its working. NOTE, before refitting the cam chain tensioner work it in and out with fresh engine oil so it works smoothly without feeling gritty.
I hope you’re ok with me pinning this comment to the top. Everyone will see it then. I usually push the chain with my finger or a punch. Just to take up most of the slack. As you said, 5 clicks which is what I do. I don’t bother counting as I’d be putting too much tension on it when tightening the Cct. Thanks for commenting, I will keep this in mind next time! Haha 👍🏼
