I got a great deal on a 1uz and 30-40LE tranny setup do this swap in a '90 4runner, the 2wd to 4wd conversion on the tranny has many a vid on youtubes which is well within my mechanical level to perform, I will be using a spitronics harness and ecu/tcu, my tranny DOES NOT have the 6pin or 8 pin connector harness for the solenoids, mine is a 3pin connector, my ring for the speed sensor IS NOT as yours(or others) with the 4 "arms" sticking out, mine is just a ring with grooves machined equally running the length of the ring, I havent disassembled the tail housing but for initial benchtop inspection, the gear that would turn the speedo APPEARS to be a separate piece from my "tone ring/gear", both are held in place with a snap ring on that out put shaft-it APPEARS that once I remove that snap ring the speedo gear and the "tone ring/gear" slide off as 2 pieces, I also dont have a "speed sensor/lock up sensor" found on the front driver's side of the tranny as I saw on other vids, I'm thinking the bellhousing is for a 6 cylinder, the hump at 12 o'clock that I've seen on other tranny vids is at 2 o'clock on my bellhousing, I dont know if that sensor is mounted in the bellhousing, I do see a threaded hole and round casting where a sensor might be drilled(?), do you think I have a useable tranny for this 4wd conversion, do I just need a 6/8pin harness,
Spraying the outside of the manifold may have skewed the results, as infrared thermometers tend to vary their readings some by the color of the surface being checked. Would also be interesting to know how the coating held up on the inside.
Great reportage thank you. That said Eastwood goops are traditionally Pricey . What happens when the exh internals become coated with the normal greyish build up from exh gases ?? Likely eliminating any and all of the paints' benefits... I suspect.
This video is what I am looking for. I am a bit concerned about how clean the header became after the Soaking Process. Would it be easier to just run a sandblast wand down the tube and clean out all the carbon and stuff. Next would be to prep and apply coating 2 and check heat retention within the header. You should have also checked the temp at the exhaust outlet to see if more exhaust temp. After that, put in a third and fourth coat of the thermal coating, then test the temps again. The less heat that reaches the metal, the longer. it will last. It means less heat under the hood, possibly inside the cab, or motorcycle, the heat goes out the back, not all along the exhaust tubes.
The 1uz engines are just great motors. My friends brother in law was a tech for like 15 years for Lexus. He told me if you take care of those motors with good oil intervals they're bullet proof
Lovely, lovely engine. Sounds magnificent. Your part time radiator shows how it should be done. I can't stand first time start videos where they run them without coolant. Like you have shown, you just need a bucket and a couple of pipes to protect the engine.
Thanks for making this video I didn’t think my 99 4Runner transfer case would work with a t100 tcase because of the tail shaft pickup/sender issue but I just drilled the hole out and shimmed it and it all jives even though marlin crawler said it wouldn’t 🤷♂️ They like to sell the mc-31 adapter plate
There's that oil hole as you stated on a CartuneNZ vid. Thanks for your NA market specific swap details!! Did you have success with <.125" or <3mm gap at sensor? Why do you refer to what I call the "#2 VSS (VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR) as "tone" sensor? Any remarks on motor mounting, or maybe you detailed this in another video?
What else must be done to start this type of engine or a 2jz engine? Think you said clear codes in ecu or itll never start. Id need to buy another ecu or get someone to get programmed correctly
I Coated the inside of a 2 Stroke Pipe with this stuff. Not sure if it works I have not installed the pipe yet. But to speak on the prep. The chemicals you used are all fine and good. But any paint or primer wants a scuffed surface for adhesion. I understand it is difficult to mechanically get inside the runners on say a manifold or a header. For that what I did was use blast media you can use Garnet for a quick cut it’ll leave you with a smooth surface but it will remove rust and Scale pretty quickly. I’m not saying I’m correct but I’m just putting this information out there in case someone wants to try this because I didn’t think of it. I sealed up the openings temporary fabric tape plastic whatever. Put in the media Garnett crushed glass call slag black beauty they call it. Then shake the header or manifold like a maraca it sucks it is a bit time consuming and I don’t think I would found myself shaking the manifold it does look a bit silly. But I will tell you this I used a borescope and looked inside of the Pipe and it was very clean and texture exactly white paint and or Prime or Wants. The devil is in the details
Factory ECU/harness from the engine donor. I bought a 2 day subscription to Toyota Techinfo and downloaded all the factory diagrams, and cut out all the wiring I'm not using, and modified it to work on it's own so it can easily be spliced into the truck.
How is the build going so far? You done? I have a 1994 4Runner so far just about to purchase the engine. Your video is a good starting point for me. SO you mentioned that the lift is not necessary, is there any advantage in lifting it. Do you recommend it? You have any other sources to look at for help with my build. Let me know please.
Progress is very slow. I have many projects, and with 2 young kids, I don't make progress on any of them very quickly. Obviously a lift makes room for bigger tires. With a body lift, you can raise the engine/transmission up with the body, and with a plate crossmember, you can gain like 5" under the case. Also the gas tank can be lifted, too.
Do a video showing what wires from the 87 you had to tap into to start it with the 87 keyed ignition. I'm doing a 7MGTE swap into an 87 and I'm lost as to where I connect it so I can use the 87 ignition to start it.
Probably won't be a video on it. All the work is in the prep of the donor harness. I stripped my lexus harness to be completely stand alone (I've posted other videos of it running out of the vehicle), so the only wires spliced into the truck will be a switched power, start signal, fuel pump power, and signals for the gauges and warning lights. I highly recommend pickup up a factory service manual and electrical wiring diagram books for your truck (I got mine on eBay).
I found a Russian web site that claims they can reprogram 2uz computers and they make a conversion ucu to communicate on analog vehicle that do not have can communication is call all4swaps.ru
I have not finished it, although it does run. I simplified and modified the Lexus harness to be a standalone engine management harness so it only needs a key on, start and fuel pump wire to run. I will be cleaning it up and wiring in a custom fuse box next. I'll do a video of some of that.
Why no boats, bikes, RVs, busses, semi trucks, tractors or trailers? You need to diversify! And a few washers/driers plus some bathtubs and other such nescessities would help round things out too. Bonus points for any items displayed on 1 or more cinder blocks... Be sure to keep any grass, weeds and brush around your property line and along nearby roads well trimmed, it wouldn't do to lose sight of the collection. If your neighbors can't see it all, yer not doing it RIGHT.
