That "LOW FROFILE" mini fuse are in the 3rd Gen Tacos as well. The fuse puller can be found attached to the fuse box lid in the engine compartment along with some spare fuses. Thank you for showing us that a regular mini fuse can be used instead of the "LOW FROFILE" fuse without it falling out.
If you have a bad battery with shorted plates it can also cook your regulator by placing a huge charging load through it. find out the maximum charging system rating and put a fuse on its output, They all should have one .. this will also offer some protection to the regulator if someone manages hooks the battery or a charger up backwards.
I'll fess up. It only took me about 1 minute to figure this out on my own. Did I ever tell you about the 30 pound trout I caught on a 4 pound fishing line?!? (Jok!) Thanks!
Nicely done sir I've got a 96 GL 1500 and I used to be a audio competitor to the point of national and world championships no conferences and shows all over the country. Won in fact. I used to gut every car that I brought home new or not install up to a competition level audio system and do all this kind of stuff somehow on the motorcycle I've just not had the resolve but I've got that same Marine stereo remote I think and a head unit for it and I've got other amps and stuff and you inspired me I'm going to go ahead and pull this thing apart and get it jazzed up a little bit I basically just got the stock system and one of the speakers in front buzz is a little everything else is okay but I'm not shooting for super awesome high volume high base whatever I just want to get the where I can play it here it and not have buzzes but you inspire me thanks a lot
yes, THANK YOU. I had the exact same issue with a SkilSaw 5275 that I've used hundreds of times, in and out of the case. Perhaps it's just another senior moment but I messed with it on and off for a day. I'm so glad I saw your video. It just proved I was not losing my mind! Here, you can laugh at my "journey". ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dQDoZMFDHD4.html
Just a thought. You could put an ohm meter on the burnt wires and see if the have much resistance. That should tell you if the armature is still good or fubar
Every one of these voltage regulators I've seen removed are black, mower/charging system works fine. On a car, there is dielectric grease that is on some ignition modules. One could put some dielectric grease on the mounting area of the voltage regulator. I haven't had any issues with how they are mounted. Flywheel magnets are an issue. Moving voltage regulator leaves an open spot for rodents to move in and build a nest.
You didn't mention it, but hopefully you are using countersteer to steer your motorcycle. When you want to go left, you pull on the right grip, and when you want to straighten back up, you push the right grip away. Opposite thing when you want to turn the other way. Pushing and pulling the grip allows extremely fine control of your line and lean angle.
Brother, I wanna thank you for this video and very good information. I just recently purchased a Troy built with the same motor on it and I was having a problem with it shutting off and found that the battery went dead. It shut off didn’t start I believe that’s what’s going on. I’m gonna try this.
The voltage regulator is cooled by the fins on the flywheel, i have had a kohler engine on a cub cadet with the same voltage regulator and had no problems.
Any easy way to modify for a different battery? I hate single use batteries. I thought a 18650 battery would work just not the right length. Milwaukee has a version of this but not willing to spend $250.
I like the air filter idea, I also want to get a scoop for the air intake screens on the flywheel. The slightest windy day and grass ends up all over my flywheel screen. Maybe a 70s Trans Am scoop, lifted 10 inches, and turned to the left, opposite of the grass discharge. What else.. these bolts that hold the shrouds to the head new the exhaust, loosen them to loosen the shrouds to clean the grass and stuff off the fins. The bolts break.
I think I'm there. I fully charged the battery, mowed for 15 minutes, shut it off, and no restart. 2017 or 2018 Snapper SZ2454, bought in the the summer of 2018. Worked fine until a few weeks ago. 498 hours, Northwest Arkansas.
Great Idea, why are we having to pay for this "fix." Designed by idiots. So I have to pigtail out to a cool spot? I keep getting burned by "buy American."
I called it engineered junk or engineered failure. The Kohler has MUCH to be desired. Kawasaki is good but I woulnt call it legendary. All these vertical shafts have "oil pressure bearings" instead of "indudustrial roller bearings" to support the crank.
It's not the heat that kills those voltage regulators. The casing of the regulator (with that thick metal and deep grooves in the top) is actually a heat sink, designed to keep the heat away from the electronicals. I have a Kohler Courage on my Gravely 60" ZTR with over 1000 hours on it (and used in a hot climate to mow 6-7 acres off) and the regulator is still going strong. Ironically, the fuse did burn-up on mine, wrecking the fuse holder.....just fixed it yesterday- first time in several years that the mower is actually charging the battery!
Why did you use a golf cart solenoid instead on an automotive solenoid? What's the part number of the solenoid your using? What gauge wire are using going from the solenoid to the starter? Working on a craftsman, 2015 with 20 hp Kohler engine. MTD used an 8-gauge starter wire. Going to install a 1-gauge starter wire. There is too much of a voltage drop. The wire was acting like a fuse. The original starter went bad which appears to be 2nd generation starter. Not a fan on the 1/4-inch lugs on the starter cable. Was thinking about installing a Ford solenoid like on an 1981 to 1996 truck. I want the lug size to be at least 3/8-inch bolt size. I believe a golf cart solenoid uses 5/16-inch lugs.
www.ebay.com/itm/124347735169 Yes I should use bigger cables but stuck with the stock ones. I should probably go bigger cables in the future. The ford solenoid will work just fine, it looks very similar to the golf cart one.
@@TheClintmeister I found a company that will build any size cable you want and it’s reasonable. I can’t believe how crappy Oreillys has become. Was looking for Borg-Warner starter solenoids and having a hard time cross referencing the part number. The starter uses 1/4 inch bolt diameter lug. I think the Ford solenoid will allow 3/8 inch bolt diameter lug.
@@racerx1250 I have done so much I forgot I did get bigger cables. Sorry about that. I still have to fix the charge system. The best thing I did to that motor is the air filter system. The oil stays so clean now. The Kohler company says to "rebuild the heads at 300hrs", I'm past them hrs. Kohler is engineered junk!
I couldn't figure out of 20 years ago and my gf came over, crossed her arms, tilted her head, and put it in like she worked at the Skil factory. Since then I've made a mental note of how it came out when I use it. It worked. Until Thursday. I broke down and Googled it so thanks for putting this up.
I came to your video, because I was searching information on the same tool model, that I just found on the street. It is dusty and dirty, maybe missing some parts, or not. Your video will definitely help me to bring the tool back to life, thank you!
I am wanting a Bad Boy ZT Elite, I can get the Kawasaki for just $5900 or the Kohler 7000 for $5200. Quite a bit difference, but if I'm going to keep it for a long time, might be worth the extra $$. I know this video is a few years old but thanks for sharing your input.
Thank you very much for sharing your experience. I was wondering what the inside looked like. I am in a learning curve about the Kohler starters. Our Cub Cadet XT1 LT-46 has the Kohler 7000 Series KT725-725cc 22HP engine and the starter's part number is 1999-1140051 32-098-08 January 1, 2017. We purchased our lawn tractor in July 2017 from Home Depot. On Saturday April 13, 2024, I discovered that our tractor would not start. After searching the internet, RU-vid and reading, I proceeded to perform a few tasks that were overdue that got neglected due to family health matters. The past twelve-(12) days, I searched the internet, compared prices and brands on the online shopping platforms and shopped local brick and mortar shops to obtain price quotes and conversed with small landscaping business owners to gain information. I am having a difficult time in understanding the great price differences "for the alleged same product" from different stores and and different 3rd party sellers on different online stores on the digital market platforms. IT is getting harder to find honest brokers in most industries and businesses. On Thursday, April 18, 2024 - Connected the Super Start battery and removed the hood, removed the air-filter and sprayed the Engine Starter Fluid and placed the air-filter back into the housing. Loosened the Choke/Throttle cable in attempt to tighten the cable tension, attempted to start the engine and it did not crank, removed and checked the 20-amp fuse that is in the battery cables - it looked good, removed the engine cover with a eight millimeter-(8-mm), attempted to remove the starter with 3/8-in socket and a 7/16-in socket, but learned the bolts require a ten millimeter-(10-mm) socket - borrowed correct socket size from neighbor, removed the starter and confirmed that it was broken because the gear-wheel sheared off from the rest of its housing. On Wednesday, April 17, 2024 - Removed the new Champion spark plugs due to learning that must be set at 0.030-in; retrieved the spark plug gauge tools and set both plugs to as close to the specification of 0.030-in as required from the Cub Cadet RU-vid Channel; Re-installed the Champion Spark Plugs, Poured the second one quart-(1-qt.) of SAE-30 oil into the engine dipstick cavity, Reconnected the battery cables and reattached the hood, Attempted to start the Cub Cadet XT1 LT-46 lawn tractor - it failed to start Tuesday, April 16, 2024 - Disconnected the Super Start battery in preparation to test if it is a good battery, retrieved my old Archer-Kit Volt-Ohm Multi-meter to test the battery - it tested good. Searched RU-vid and the internet for probable causes as to why the lawn tractor won't start and found a dozen reasons, Inventoried our Cub Cadet replacements parts and fluids; we need two-(2) quarts of SAE-30 engine oil and two-(2) spark plugs, Drained the engine oil and it was very dark; removed the spark plugs and IMHO learned that they need to be replaced with new spark plugs; Installed two-(2) new Champion Spark Plugs - later I learned that I may have torque them too tight and the spark plug gap needs to measure 0.030”, Installed one-(1) new air-filter, Installed one-(1) new oil-filter, poured one quart-(1qt.) of engine oil [need to add the second quart of engine oil tomorrow] Monday, April 15, 2024 Removed the battery from the Cub Cadet battery - mystery label May 2018 ? Dad purchased the tractor July 2017 Visited O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store to verify if the battery could hold a charge - No Purchased Super Start battery from O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store Installed the battery and attempted to start, but the tractor failed to start Disconnected the Super Start battery as precaution to prevent draining the battery Saturday, April 13, 2024 Discovered that the lawn tractor would not start
The solo end wire goes to battery, look at the 3 tabs, 2 have AC AC stamped on or above - those go to 2 pole plug. Other has B+ - thats TO battery. The two that connect to 2 hole plug are 35 to 45 volt AC power IN from engine. The B+ is 14 to 16 volt DC output to battery (AT FULL THROTTLE. At idle can be as low as 2v.) You can check if voltage reg is working by disconnect plug and single wire. Start engine. Full throttle. Using your volt meter on AC (NOT DC) at 200v - put red lead in 1 hole of plug, black in other. Does not matter whicj. This combined reading should show 30 to 40 volts. Ok, that means engine if generating charging power. Off engine. Reconect wire and plug to volt reg. Start eng. Full throttle. Now, at full throttle, put volt meter on DC \ put red lead on single wire on volt reg. Black lead find a ground...screw, frame, battery whatever. Volts should be 13.5 to 15. Usually 14 to 14.5 If yes engine is gen power. Volt reg works fine. Problem is between volt reg and battery, may be bad battery.
I just bought a Skilsaw 5500 with the case off of FB marketplace. It came with a case and wasn't in it. They said they couldn't figure out how to put if back. I carried it out the way it was. Got home and got lucky in the first 5 minutes. It's easy then you finally get it! Found this video while looking for reviews. Thanks
Just wanted to say Thank you.. definitely saved me some time after watching your video, my charging system hasn't been working for quite some time.. thanks
I've got two of these and they're great. Since I've got two I decided to take one apart in the name of science. Long story short, with a motor controller off of Amazon you can run these off a USB power bank. Without the motor controller it will spin dry but once you put a load on it, it conks out. Hope this helps somebody.
Question for you. I plan on sanding the chrome down on my Silverado grill. I know, however, I bought some black self etching primer. Should I do the adhesion promoter before the etching primer or after? Or just go with the adhesion promoter or just the primer?
I'm facing the same problem right now. I just glued the magnets again on the housing, have to wait for 18 more hours for the glue to get dry... Hoping for a miracle... 🤞
It's been a while since I have used it. But the first couple of years it was the same old Bulldog spray (spray in globs, inconsistent coverage). I haven't used it in a LONG time, and really have no intent to go back to it.
Kohler has a canister style air filter for this engine. You'd have to replace everything north of the carburetor but it would all bolt in place like it belongs there. You'd get a considerable improvement in filter surface area.
