Outdoor living is the best. Tag along for whatever adventure comes along. I'll teach you what I know about fixing things, creating things, and enjoying the outdoors.
Just blew a bucket seal on my 4100 with the 410 bucket yesterday. I'm going on 71 and now trying to decide so I want to try to get my son in law to help me rebuild it or bite the bullet and take it somewhere and let someone else handle it. Any idea on how expensive it is to have a shop rebuild it?
Hello sir. If you consider your son in law to be witty and good with his hands then I don’t see why he wouldn’t be capable of doing the job. My father in law gave me a chance with this rebuild and I appreciated him giving me the opportunity. It helped me build confidence. On the other hand if you prefer to take the cylinder or tractor to a shop I would prepare to spend between $800-$1,000.
@@realdealGod That's what I'm seeing. I wouldn't have hesitated a second even a few years ago to do it myself but my eyesight and arthritis and other health issues have really hit me hard in the last couple of years. I also have a nephew that could have knocked it out but he has a medical emergency last year and his heart stopped and the EMT waited until they got him out if the house and into the ambulance before doing anything and then didn't start him on Oxygen when they got a heart beat back and now he's suffering nerve damage in his extremities and speech. I know this sounds like some kind of a bad movie or soap opera but like the old saying, when it rains it pours! But thank GOD both of us are still here. My son in law doesn't mind a bit and I really think between the two of us we can get it done, albeit definitely not winning any time race! 😂 The way I see it the hardest part of the whole job will be getting the rebuilt shaft back in the tube with the new seals. But then again, "the best laid trap of mice and men"! 🤣. I really appreciate your comment and words of encouragement. I'll probably go ahead and do both cylinders while it's down as since this one went out the other one probably isn't too far behind. Thank you again for your kind words.
@@realdealGod And obtw, looking on line I'm seeing prices for the kits from around $50. to over $250. Why the disparity in prices other than some are just proud of their parts? Also, do you know an outlet that has good quality parts at a reasonable price? I definitely don't want to go through JD (or even Amazon or e bay) if l can help it, and I'm not familiar with the parts outlets I'm seeing on line. Thanks again!
@@jimjordan5630 My respects to you and your nephew that have had to deal with such harsh health issues. Praying the best for both. Lol. No need to rush on the project. Enjoy it. It’s an opportunity for a good memory regardless of the result.
I hadn't found a video showing the rebuild of a cylinder with the wire-style release, thank you! I've never rebuilt a cylinder before & your video made it easy! Thank you!
Hey young man! This video has been very helpful for this old man. I literally could not have done with without your help. Has to be one of the best instructional videos I have found. And thanks for posting all the parts links. The JD guy at the counter struggled and with your help I can now get what I need including the marrying wire! Much appreciated!
Hey, of course. The power is connected to the metal box with the wires inside. You will need 3 wires. A black, white, and green. Do you have the same model as the one in the video?
From the picture the client sent over it looks like the same model , the motor says “elite” but I’m sure it’s a liftmaster. One more question is it possible to connect solar panels to the battery so I won’t have to run wires from the power source ? Electricians can be a bit pricey and solar panels might be the best option for my customer
Love the video dude just a bit confused, I think the polarity doesn’t matter on the white and green for the photo eyes. It does matter on the red and black since one is a negative and one a positive
Thank you @Drkrjamon018 So in my case I used the green and white for power and the black and red wires were for signal. I can’t remember why I did it like that but I’m pretty sure I had a reason. That’s why polarity didn’t matter for the red and white on the eyes. But the white and green wires it did matter because those were my power.
That's bypassed, not removed. For a lot of applications it's better to remove the plastic governor gear from inside. The plastic gear could still break apart from going too fast and that can be a show-stopper.
Very well made units mine is Aladdin S681U Equator II. Easy to change wick just rotate Counter-clockwise until tab up from latch then pull knob out to release wick holder collapse wick inwardly from pins reverse with new wick. It took me 2 tries to adjust wick height corectly 3/8inch exposed when fully to right knob (3X wick number)
Ethernet cable? What year is this? I just bought a liftmaster gate operator and it has MyQ which is wireless. I can even operate my gate from the internet. Shoot I've opened my garage door from 1500 miles away so I know myQ works.
I lived up in the mountains where losing power was a common event in the winter. So I found a dealer and had a Monitor Vented Kerosene heater installed in my house. The only thing you needed was a small Honda (or whatever type) generator to power the fan. So if it snowed, and we lost power, I ran a cord from outside, from the Honda generator to my heater and we stayed toasty warm. As info, Monitor is no longer in business. They made a great heater but I was told that management ran the company into the ground. We used that as our primary heat source from 1993 to 2021. No problems whatsoever. But right when we put the house up for sale, the heater finally took a dump. So then, I went back to the dealer who sold me the Monitor stove, and purchased a Toyo Stove Vented Kerosene heater for the place. I've heard nothing but good things about Toyo's. We sold that house and we moved down into the flatlands and I figured our winters would be no problem where we moved to. Things were going smoothly from January 2021 until January 2024. THEN we had a freak ice storm and we lost power for 2-3 days. I had no back up plan and we got cold as hell. AND that is why I'm looking into getting a small heater like this one to provide heat if we ever get another episode like the one we just had. I'm sold on kerosene, my father was in the propane business and I showed him the data on the Monitor Heater and he shook his head and said they had nothing that could compete with the BTU's and efficiency of these heaters. I also had a backup plan at my old house and that was I had a very good cast iron wood stove and a good weeks supply of wood, but luckily I never had to use that wood stove. So I have my generators, and I can keep my refrigerator and freezers going, use the microwave and coffee (very important to be able to make coffee) lol . I'm excited to purchase one of these as they're not expensive and they'd be my new, great, back up plan. And now I know how to replace a wick so I'm way ahead of the game! This was a really good video! Thanks for posting it!
Very good instructional video. I got mine done in about 30 minutes. I agree with another commenter that jiggling the wick raise-lower to remove the wick assembly was easier for me. That bear wouldn't budge in the full-up position. I figured one needed to find the position with the least amount of pressure on the bar. And bingo! But whatever, that will be the most challenging part for those uninitiated I figure. That was the first time I changed it in three Florida winters. So good luck folks and thank you much Country Fixing!
😊 great video! It took only 40 minutes to complete the whole process..your up close view of wick placement was a huge help. We use this heater daily and bought the replacement wick on Amazon for $18. Thanks again for posting this gem!
I also found that after some time trying to separate the wind cover into two pieces without totally distorting/destroying it, I realized that you can leave it in one piece, and take it off, just kinda harder to reach around it to get to the wing nuts. Still, for me, easier than trying to separate it. Great video by the way, very well done, thanks!!
I found that, at least on mine, it was easier to get the wick holder out (when turning clockwise) if I had the wick holder arms lower...rather than higher as I was trying very frustratingly to get the wick holder to turn out. Seems lower is easier/better, at least in my case. It definitely takes patience, and almost finesse to get the thing out. Once you have replaced the wick once or twice, it's really not that bad. Just bring some patience!
I'm just ditto-ing everybody else. This video was a life saver. At first blush, the printed and online instructions that came with the heater looked like they would be clear. They're not. With the printed instructions alone, I would have never been able to replace my wick. Take the igniter for example. When following the printed instructions, I came to a standstill. I did not know how much of the assembly constituted an igniter, and the instructions did not clearly show it. That's when I did a RU-vid search and found your video. I thank God I did, because it made all the difference in the world. Thank you so much!
It still could grenade at some point. The fly weights are still inside case, attached to a plastic gear. And now nothing to stop centrifugal force from streching mechanism in the case. The arm u modified also kept the govorner weights from going out to far.. it could work for years, but at some point, its gunna go. And it usually busts a hole in the block.
One of the most helpful videos I've watched! I just picked up the same tractor and loader with leaking cylinders. I never could've done it without your video! I appreciate all the help!
. We just bought the Sengoku model of this heater and it works great. Thank you for this video as it will help me keep up ;the maintenance of this heater. Thanks again !!! Your video is very helpful and educational. I keep it in my bookmarks...
Yes, it would. That’s actually what I ended up doing. I bypassed the governor arm by connecting the throttle cable to the throttle arm (not the governor arm) and bending a wire to connect the throttle arm to the carburetor.
