I know it’s been 5 years. But dude I just got my new boots and I couldn’t adjust the strap. Followed your video. Turns out it was wrongfully installed. 5 minutes job and it’s good as new. So much love ❤
@@gearheadE30 I gotta convince some buddies with beer to help me get the 950 out of the office... Got a good amount done to it this winter but need your $0.02 on what I should do for the rear shock. The fork are now money but the rear keeps getting me in trouble when pushing it.
@@josephwilliamsiv The stock shock hardware is excellent, it's a steel body real PDS shock and they last forever as long as they are maintained properly. Are you still on stock valving? There's no way to make it feel great off road just with clicker settings - the stock valving is very road biased and can be unpredictable off road as a result. Going to a more dirt-oriented setup helps a lot. there are some things that can be done beyond just a revalve, but they are of very marginal benefit unless you're going racing with it all the time.
@@gearheadE30 Still bone stock on the shock. Unpredictable is for sure the best way to explain it. On road is great, then when pushing it in the dirty, it will buck me right off. I have set the sag and adjusted the clickers but it keeps getting me in trouble when traveling fast over rocks. Mostly hill climbs or fast corners when transitioning to the seat on the exit. It for sure needs a rebuild at the least. Was hoping to modify it so I can do it without needing the nitro bleeder. What mods do you recommend? Bike is built to do NEBDR with ultralight setup. I did the forks last year. Revalved with a proper mid-valve and heavy duty springs. Huge improvement. Feels like cheating.
@@josephwilliamsiv You do need to fill the shock with nitrogen, and especially being a PDS shock on a heavy bike, it needs to be filled and bled properly with a vacuum bleeder. For what you're doing, there's not really any modification needed, just a proper revalve to make the shock work properly. A dirt oriented revalve is going to be a bit soggier with luggage on the bike, but since you say your gear setup is lighter weight, it shouldn't be a major issue for your suspension tuner to set up for. It's much harder when you start talking about wanting performance unloaded as well as with 100 lbs of stuff on the back.
Your riding ability and humility makes me listen to your opinions way before id listen to those video clowns like Kris Keefer and Michael Lindsey. I feel better buying the discounted cheap 5.5s in Teal now. I bought other boots that cost a lot more and havent made 60 hours
I appreciate the comments - I try to avoid the whole youtuber personality thing as much as I can. I don't know much about Michael, but Keefer's got a good bit of experience. Plenty of opinions to go around!
I did this and immediately took it back out. Also tried the Ktech spring conversion. Hated them both. Just feels zingy and off. But people love spring conversions. Have a 23 250sxf and 24 250sx. Stock everything and they feel great after break in.
Yep, without valving changes no drop-in single spring conversion is going to feel good. Especially if you're riding moto, the 2021+ version of the AER forks that you have works decently well out of the box, though it still suffers from the rate change due to temperature like any air spring does.
I’m interested in this part for my 23 Husky FC 250. Would this work for motocross or just woods? I’m a C class Moto guy but I’m not liking the air forks.
'18 300 XC here, same deal. I'm in Colorado and going fast in rocks is literally rough. Dropping a set of MX-Tech Lucky cartridges valved by Stillwell for off road with .46 springs in it, can't wait to test.
Not good . I loosen the bottom rebound adjuster nut all the way . Push on top of hex nut up top. Use a spanner to hold the dampner rod locknut " the one that locks up against the adjuster nut. . Then take that big hex off the top . And get big multi grips then wiggle tge bottom plug out from the lower fork leg . Then remove the circlip behind it which is a square section type on the 96 to 97s absolute pain . Grind that square setion on the ends for easy removal and installation on tge 96/97s. 98 has a round section circlip behind that lower plug. Simply slide the chrome leg right through the bottom then i dismantle the rest .out side the assembly
411 lbs on my scale, she's dense! I can't weld aluminum, so there's opportunity to be lighter. Twinshock also needs a lot more frame to support the shocks than a mono shock does, since that ties into the backbone.
@gearheadE30 That's getting doen there, especially compared to my current rebel 1100. I'm considering doing the monoshock if it could save some real weight. Cause I'd prefer that look anyway. So win win lol
@@genoapb It isn't too bad, but it's physically a small bike compared to something like my KTM rally bike, which only weighs about 370 lbs. Eventually my goal is to be sub-400 lbs with the CX, but it's not high on my priority list since I don't actually use it as a race bike. If you do go monoshock, there are no options with off the shelf valving that will work well without a linkage. Just consider that you'll likely need to have it revalved to not be extremely soggy.
hey Gearhead! Love the videos! I do have a question i am looking into buying a 950 any tips to look out for? I know the joke about older KTM's breaking down often but how bad is it owning one and is it worth it? Specially because im quite green to the offroad scene and fixing bikes myself. I want a bike that i can learn on both riding and mechanic stuff since i didn't do much of that in my life till recent days i thought the 950 would be a great bike because its fairly easy *so it seems* with carbs n not to much electronics and what i hear is they handle good offroad! Hope you have great upcoming holidays! Kind greetings from the netherlands
Great footage bashing those whoops. I have a 990 Adv as well. Curious what suspension travel you are running and also what was the main change you made to the valving that prevented it bottoming. Gnarly crash by the way. Glad you were ok
Thanks! Yes, that crash could have been a lot worse. My suspension is around 285mm travel. The valving is all different than stock, there's nothing too unique about what I've done, just gone far stiffer with it than most people usually do. It's much more like a motocross setup than it is like an off road setup - safety factor matters more to me than comfort doing stuff like this with that bike.
Sick channel my man! I just signed up for the 2024 adv class! This is literally going to be my first race ever of any kind haha. Have any tips or anything I should be prepared for? Saw your comment about the snell rated helmets. Also, how many people normally race in the adv class? Is it worth putting up the $250 for the purse? Thanks man!
As a 950 Adventure rider I instantly recognized the clattering of the worn out rear caliper floating pins/bushings. 😄 Good pace through the trees. Good throttle control. 😎
Thanks! No worn caliper pins here, I have an aluminum tray built into the rear fender and some sockets fell out of the tool roll and were bouncing around in the aluminum tray making a ton of noise!
I never did jive much with the 690 platform after all my years on a 525EXC and a 950 Adventure. The handling is strange to me and like you said the gearing is just wonky. I'm obviously a little biased to your 950/990 videos but I still enjoy the 690 footage too. Living in northern Ontario Canada I don't see much of that terrain. Despite having too many bikes I'm always looking for a true contender to fill the gap between my 950 (which ALWAYS wears knobbies) and the 525. (as well as a 2021 Beta 500RR-S) I've ridden enough 690s to know that's not the bike for me and well I can't afford a KTM Rally Replica so I'm waiting to swing a leg over the new Kove 450 Rally. Jimmy Lewis says it's a legit bike so who am I to argue? If you're still looking for that true Rally bike capability you should at least check them out and maybe try to get a ride on one. The three bikes that were entered in the last Dakar made it to the finish so there's that. Anyway, I enjoy your videos so keep em coming. Cheers.
I'm definitely interested in trying a Kove at some point. I've been around a few of them and they are definitely interesting bikes, especially if they prove to be durable. Mason is racing one at Dakar this year, so that will be interesting to see. Riding with a guy on a Kove briefly, they don't make enough power in their current form, especially for mud/sand. The stock 450 engines from all the major manufacturers are much, much stronger. You are right about the 690 feeling weird stock - I have fixed the geometry on mine so that it rides and turns like a normal dirt bike. I didn't trust it at all when I got it, I have no idea why the factory sets them up the way they do. I've got enough money in this one that I'm going to keep developing the platform a bit more, and like you...no way I can afford a real RFR.
My opinion? Yes, unless you're racing motocross. AER will always have some crustiness/stiction that you don't get with a spring fork. It's not as big a deal in moto, and the AER progression is actually a good thing for moto. But in the woods, that stiction tiring. I also had a lot of issues with air pressure, I would get 6-8 psi of pressure increase from the start of a 2 hour harescramble to the end. It was either too soft at the start or too harsh at the finish. My first race after spring converting, I was still having fun at the end of the race, something that never happened with AER for me.
What is your weight and which Spring-Rate would you recommend for a 205lbs, Vet/Intermediate on a FC 350 for MX? THX in advance, I appreciate your high-leveled, informative Vids!!
@@gearheadE30 Yet on stock AER, but just bought a used K-Tech Air2Spring-Kit. Unfortunately only the old "non hydrostop"-version. Wondering about which Spring I need and the recommendations vary from 0.92 to 1.04!!😆 Weird....
@@crnobrnd Part of the problem with these single spring conversions is that the stock AER valving is too soft for a coil spring in most cases. If you're racing MX, I'd go with a 1.00 and expect that you'll probably still need to go stiffer on valving to have a good safety factor unless you're high enough level that you're not really at risk for casing or landing to flat too frequently. For comparison's sake, I run a 0.92 on my 300 for racing harescrambles. I'm surprised anyone is recommending that for moto on a 4 stroke.
@@gearheadE30 Yeah, saw it in your Vid that you have a 0.92 for Enduro on a much lighter bike. Now understanding your Bodyweight is even less, I'm confident that a 0.92 is sensless for me. Though I tend to go for a 0.96, because I saw a Vid from Jake Nichols, setting up his 23' FC 350 and he claimed a 1.00 is to hard for him. He's at 190lbs and it's a newer model, but still: he's former MXGP-rider. I can't believe I need stiffer spring than a Pro. As for the valving: I would try stock first and if it's not working, but already gives me a good feel, even let it be revalved, if needed. Sounds like a plan does it? 🙂 Thanks for the tipps again, that with the different valving for Air and Coil is priceless!! 🙏
@@crnobrnd happy to help! Your weight difference is part of it, but I also err on the stiffer side on springs for moto if I don't know rider skill level. The reason is safety factor - a pro is pretty unlikely to case or over jump badly, and if they do, they have the instinct and skill to deal with it. Being a little too stiff is not good for comfort, but it can help give you some extra margin of error if you really mess up, especially if valving is soft. Just run less preload on the spring to get your race sag in the right place so the bike still turns properly. Suspension is one of those things where you will get a lot of different opinions of things because everyone likes a different feel, this is just my opinion.
Started watching your videos after I stumbled onto the Mint400 race you were in, and I have so many questions about how you got your bike to 90k miles +! I've been a street bike guy (Street Triple, MT-09, etc) for 8 or so years but wanted to get into some more adventure/tour stuff. The KTM's sound wicked and look great, their dirtbikes are rock solid, but SO many people swear against the reliability of the street bikes. Looking for advice buying a used KTM adventure bike (790-1290 adventure, within the last decade if possible) if you have any. Thanks!
@@slaton8408 I don't know much about the 1x90 bikes because I've never owned one, but I do know some people really happy with their 1090Rs who haven't seemed to have had real issues with them besides air filtration. The 790s are decent but a lot of things were fixed with the 890 so I would hold out for one of those between the two. The 1090 is a much torquier bike than the 790/890 which can make a long commute more relaxing. I enjoyed my time on a 790R quite a bit but my use case is muchore dirt oriented.
Hi! Amazing video thanks for the clear explanation!. I am getting clutch slips above 5000rpm on a 2003 950 S.. Assumed it was a worn clutch so replaced but its still slipping in exactly the same way. Has the oberon clutch slave fitted, I bled and flushed the hydraulic fluid today still no luck... Any tips hugely appreciated !! Thaks
I know it's a bit late, but I'm glad you went ahead and uploaded this. Gave me something new to try for next year, I've got registration open for next year's race! Glad you weren't hurt at the end, good luck with recovery!
This is great. Sorry for the situation but these races are great to look at from my point of view. I would love to try stretch my Lyndon 320mm legs on that track. Heal up quick
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yeah, another inch or more of travel would be great though I really didn't have any bottoming issues. Just can run a bit softer setting without having to worry. Mine is ~290mm roughly.
@@gearheadE30 290mm should be fine for this. I'm in the process of getting mine to 300mm front back with EXC internals at the front. Still looking for a suitable spring for the back (160NM 16.3/kg/mm or a bit more) here in Europe but no luck so far. Any US sources for these springs (I used Slavens racing in the past but they seem to only have 265mm rear springs for the Adventure R). What spring are you using? Lengthwise. P.S. I really enjoyed this clip. This bike was made for this stuff minus perhaps the early part in the semi-MX track. Great riding.
You got Lyndon's legs? Lucky you, no longer available. How many did he make, like 5? Powercell still makes the Ohlins 277mm kit but they cost a lot. Especially for those of us in Europe (more taxes, duties, shipping, etc).
@@C_R_O_M________ what is driving you to a 160N spring? Riding with luggage, or with a passenger? I have a 140N spring in mine, and it's borderline too stiff with all the weight I have taken out of the bike. Slavens, Racetech, and CSR are my typical sources for springs in the US. Sometimes they have things not on their sites, especially CSR since they have their own springs made.
Great review. Can you tell me if the enduro sole is actually that different from the MX version? I ride enduro on a Yamaha Tenere 700 and I want to buy these shoes in the same color as yours, but they are only in the MX version.
Glad you found it useful! I have never had the Enduro version but I believe they are the same material just with some added tread on them. I have had the Enduro version of other boots, and they tend to not last as long but do work a lot better if you need to push or hike around in the mod.
little late but hope this project still on the road,, and a good inspiration for make my 1985 caprice wagon to a manual,, I turn manual a caprice already, 1980 2 doors, 4 speeds 305,,
Unfortunately I don't own this one anymore, it finally got too rusty for me to save, and I have too many cars. Rumor has it, it's still on the road somewhere an hour or two north of me.
Do you think the nv3500 could handle better gears 4:10s better heads, cam intake all that. I’ve been wanting to do a manual swap for some time but dont know what trans to use I’m on a budget and not shooting for 1000hp. Just have a decent 350 and gears don’t know if that will be too much for it
@@ethanfillmore865 the NV3500 worked fine in mine with most of those mods. I still had longer gears in the rear end, but the trans doesn't care what gears are behind it. First will be really short with 4:10s, the gear spacing is pretty wide since it is a truck trans. Definitely shifts like a truck trans, but it fit the character of the car. They are sensitive to low fluid. If you abuse it, it will break. If you don't, it will handle more power than the internet thinks it does.
@@dranger9393 , I modify the break pedal, cutting and bend it for space for the clutch pedal, and clutch pedal and links from a 71 camaro,, later replace the links by clutch master cylinder of83. or 84 chevy s-10, and hydraulic trow-bearing, (speedways)
