Just a guy with a little bit of mechanical aptitude, no money, and huge visions. This is a chronicle of my MANY projects and adventures. This channel is for entertainment purposes. Mainly my entertainment, if you do anything I do on here, do it safely, but at your own risk!
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Yes we do. We mainly pull with Patriot, we pull with Western NY garden tractor pullers as well. But mainly patriot. 3 stock tractors, and 2 hobby stock v8s. Thanks for watching!
So after watching a couple of these, I am wondering if you couldn't just remove that firewall type plate and the shroud on the rear of the engine. On mine that would reveal the mounting bolts for the starter and possibly give room for wrenching. My starter is just loose.
Appreciate the video. The starter on my '86 420 has the solenoid on the firewall. The starter is extremely loose, so it's nice to know I don't have to pull the whole engine as other videos show. I just hope the mounting holes aren't broken on the engine.
Watch your fingers when you put the engine back in. I smashed my middle finger. Instantly turned my nail black, had to heat up a pin and put a tiny hole in it to relieve the pressure. That was the only casualty that day and that 420 is still going strong. Thanks for watching!
Good luck! Remember “a flap wheel and paint make me the welder I ain’t!” Have fun with it! When you get done you’ll have learned a lot and be able to say “Hey I did that!” Thanks for watching!
I got the floor pan from rock auto. The sheet metal I used along the inner rocker buy the seat I cut out of an old ford truck hood. You can get the sheet metal anywhere 18ga would work just fine. You can try to sand the rust down. Get it down to bare metal, see how many holes are in it, replace material as necessary. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! It was my first one. Learned a lot building it. Axle came from Vogel, it was made by Doug Rood, from Rood dog chassis works. Since I built this tractor I started making my own axles. Thanks for watching!
@@karnesmotorsports I have been thinking about making my own. I gave a thought to making some spindles for a stock axle too just to lower the front some.
How cold was it? I just had mine built and I'm getting the same color and volume of smoke on start up. It takes about 5 minutes for it to go away even at 70 degrees. It's definitely not coolant or oil. It's fuel. Just wondering.
She’s coming along. All it really needed was a motor when I bought it. Getting the little stuff knocked out while waiting for parts. Thanks for watching!
Where are youse guys getting parts at? Not much on the old cubs about here.. parts can e difficult… did repower with HF. Any advise would be helpful thanks
www.zkbrmachine.com makes alot of parts. They make some repower adaptors and the best performance clutch components. I make/modify some stuff myself. Parts are out there. Midwest super cub, Brian’s cub parts also. Thanks for watching.
Spacers for the hitch? I ended up swapping to a curt class V 2” hitch instead of the stock one. Much heavier duty and better hitch than stock. Thanks for watching!
My f350 front body mounts and floor pan failed and now my door won’t close without having to lift it to close . Rubs real bad… Iv never welded in my life so any helpful advice would be great!
It’s just metal, it can be fixed. The best part about floor pans is no one can see your welds lol! Get yourself some scraps, and start running some beads. You’ll figure it out. Make sure the metal is clean and shiny. You’ll want to weld in some temporary bracing if you’re cutting the cab mounts out. The good part is they make new ones. Best advice I can give is don’t be afraid to try it yourself, and have fun! This was actually a fun job to do, for some reason I enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Great idea! I really want one of the small portable parts washers. Harbor freight used to sell them, but don’t anymore. I have access to a bigger one now. I like the dishwasher idea tho! Thanks for watching!
If anyone else is in this boat, check your drip rails! The seam sealer up there goes bad and lets water drip down inside both the front and rear pillars. I’m convinced that’s the reason the cab corners and outer floor pans rot out
Good call! I’ve noticed on a couple that I’ve painted that the seam sealer is all cracked out. Never gave it a thought about leaking. Makes sense! This was a farm truck at one point in its life so the cow crap probably didn’t help. All this job was for was to stop the wind blowing in. Thanks for watching!
You can use a hydro. It won’t work as well as a gear drive. I know a guy that won a championship with a hydro. It was in an 850lb 12hp class. So It can be done but a gear drive would work better. A hydro would be really cool for a small kid that can’t push the clutch pedal so they could run it all by themselves. If you can’t find a gear drive, you could still build the hydro, then swap the rear axle to a gear drive in the future and wouldn’t really be out anything. Thanks for watching!
yes you can, for lower power id recommend a hydro over a manual, turn up the system pressure and shim the linkage and you'll be able to pull just fine.
@karnesmotorsports thank you for the posts! We don't have a garden tractor club anywhere in this massive California valley. I know of a sled I verbally owned for about 1hr. Came back with the trailer and owner backed out, since died of overdose and family estate is seized. May build my own sled owning my own fab shop but steel is thru the roof.
thanks for the video man this is gonna help me out on putting my duramax t-case all together and im gonna up grade my oil pump so down the road it wont out no tiny pine hiles in the case
Thanks! Transmission was slipping, we don’t like to twist her that many, normally 5800-6400 if she’s hooked up and the torque converter isn’t giving up. Not the 7200 it hit at the end of this run!
Yea Ive still got it. I started to swap a twin in it to pull sport stock, but haven’t finished it. I had to pilfer a bunch of parts from it the other day to keep one the kids going…
Mine was Deere 210 tins on a cub 100 chassis. I’ll get it together one of these days, probably when my oldest is gonna step up. I started building a couple V8 mini rods. I like the cubs and I’m an IH guy, but the Deere’s look better!
She might have! The powerglide was slipping. Replaced the band and servo rings, that didn’t help it much. New converter going in. Hopefully that fixes it.
Careful calling them lawnmowers, them’s fighting words to some guys! Lol! I’m planning on doing a build series on a cub cadet to show everyone how I do it. It’s a lot of fun! Thanks for watching!
We pulled with a 1966 JD 110 for years. Stock 8hp kohler and all. Got to up to weight, new JD belts, and some bar tires. Bumped it up to 3600rpm and sent it. Usually ran it in 4th gear. Never once slipped a belt. All 3 of my kids started on it. My brothers kids are running it now. If you look back through some of my videos you’ll see it. It never won, but it didn’t finish last either.
I don’t have part numbers handy, Go check out www.zkbrmachine.com their website is pretty easy to navigate. I got a driveshaft, throw out bearing, a blue spring, and some 5/8” collars. I used the stock replacement clutch disk that was in it. I’ll go check it out and see if I can come up with some numbers for you. We use kerber’s clutches in all our pullers. They’re the absolute best bang for the buck.
Super helpful. Im building a puller with the same 3 pin style clutch and i bought the tractor as a roller and couldnt figure out for the life of me how that clutch worked, this helped a ton and made me realize what a money pit i bought
@karnesmotorsports actually I was the one with the 7790 diesel at Pike, that's what I'm putting the cub rear in. Ended up having belt slip and it was my weak link so I can't add any power till that's fixed.
@karnesmotorsports you wouldn't have any pressure plates kicking around would you? I'm thinking mine are pretty badly pitted up just from the exterior look, I havnt torn into it yet.
