Did this a couple of days ago (videos are a bit behind). It was the HERMS weeping a little so I drained it all, used some jointing sealant and it seems fine now :-)
I just adjusted that screw to get my paddles to reach the bottom of the bowl and my mixer is bouncing around like crazy. If i re tighten it as suggested does that mean i simply have to choose between a bouncy mixer or not being able to mix everything? Or is there another solution to get the paddle down deeper into the bowl?
I've found it's a fine line between the two to get the exact setting. I'm pretty sure there may be a more serious issue with some that will require a strip down - which is a truly horrible job.
Maybe I'm wrong (probably, according to my wife) but will the water measurements, you've just calibrated, change when the water is to temperature, as things expand as they heat up? Asking for a friend. Great video though Martin, it's great to see content about things that I love from the city I love. keep it up.
Whenever I can get a whole free day :-) I'd hoped for some time this week but it's looking unlikely so possibly next weekend if I lock the gates and turn my phone off!
Just a word of warning Martyn the EVO track saw does not have a plunge function it’s just a circular saw that is track compatible. Maybe not a problem for you so I’ll leave it at that. BTW liking the new vids 👍🏼🔥
I’ve got a m8 who has a RU-vid channel and he now gets sent evaluation products to review and he really rates the products. You definitely have to get the track saw it’s a no brainer 🧠 I’ve said it before but I’m going to say it again absolutely loving the new video format of seeing you in front of the camera. From a BIG fan cheers 👍🍻
The track saw is a no brainer, yes. Evolution did send me a new blade - not sure I'd ask them for a track saw! I'm not sure about having myself in the videos still. Not everyone has such a strong stomach as you mate!
My understanding is that screw was for bowl height adjustmenf. I just did the dime test and now my lock lever is moving only half way up (but still locking). Of course, I just tore apart my Classic from 2002 for regreasing, and in the process took out the motor and repainted the mixer red (classic comes in only black or white)... Looks like I'll have to take the top off and redo the lock lever position (but I'll probably wait until it stops locking or I buy a black cord to replace the white one).
To their credit, when I told them that I'd prefer them not to continually say things after I've told them I found them offensive they did /try/ not to be so obnoxious. Some of their family today though, well, I feared for my own safety a couple of times. In all the years I've done this, the number of really challenging patients is thankfully quite low.
I just started making pizzas myself....do check out a RU-vidr chef called Brian Lagerstrom. He has a video on making Roman style thin crust. Can highly recommend. ; )
Nice Pitza stove. The gas cylinders you use are for industry in Norway. Bottles for household use have a much lower pressure with a pressure valve, but you see they had pressure regulation. The danger is that people use industrial bottles without regulation directly on grills/stoves that are designed for low pressure. There have been quite a few accidents with it.
All my Calor and refillable bottles have the same connector and are 37mbar I think. We have Butane bottles that have the clip on regulator type. I've just not seen these clip on Propane before. Live and learn :-)
The keg post fitting is self closing anyway so the ball valve can be left open permanently I think? You can control by just attaching/detatching the quick disconnect?
The valve is there to prevent liquid seeping back into pipework. It would be a bad idea to remove it. If the keg post fails when the tank is full, you're knackered! I think that if the beer is allowed to flow back, without a valve, it will make a mess of the keg post. Why not source a hose tail that fits your existing pipe or swap out the existing pipe for pipe of the appropriate dimension?
The valve is either open or closed, it doesn't in itself prevent backflow. My concern is that this type of valve requires the two white plastic parts to be compressed against the ball of the valve. The ball lock post and disconnect are a reasonable modification if I can ensure the components of the ball valve are not compromised. The only theoretical issue, whatever connections are made, would be if the gas ran out and beer flowed back to the regulator. I use inline non return valves on gas lines so that shouldn't be a problem.
Over engineering slightly, but if you can route your gas line from up high, with a check valve (at ceiling height for example), there will always be a large "bubble" of CO2 trapped in the line thats under some amount of pressure, any liquid backflow isn't going to travel any higher than the level it sits at at the tank (the tank isn't ever going to be under more pressure than the CO2 supply). Realistically I think that's only likely to happen if you remove all pressure from the beer line and give the liquid plenty of time (days) to diffuse back through the stone. Maybe this is more of a problem when dealing with gigantic commerical scale brite tanks (where you have hundreds or thousands of litres of headspace), but these are fairly small in the scheme of things. As for the argument about making a mess of a keg post, so what! That's going to be its dedicated purpose and the ball valve effectively becomes a slightly complicated pipe 🤷♂️
I will also be using the John Guest male threaded into carbstone which you could also add a valve inline to effectively remove the need for the valve on carbstone just leave open.
