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I didn't need to replace it, but your video was helpful, nonetheless. Turns out the screw holding my thermistor was loose out of the box. I wiggled the wire a bit then tightened it up; works great now!
hi , it's always the same you wait a year and amazon will have the item for $100 . but you have to replace the drive ram and whatever else is not quite good enough about the item . so after a few hours and a fresh reinstall you have a half decent mini pc for $200 . anyhow . i recall these mini motherboards many years ago and you could not sell them . people did not recognise them as a pc and thought they were a toy or a "not very good pc ". if i was goingto build one of these i would do it part by part individually to get a better mini pc . rather than buy an off the shelf i had to update for mini performance gains . regards .
Did you need to install any specific drivers to get the mouse to work after swapping the SSD and reinstalling Windows? I installed Windows 10 and the left click stopped working despite it working on the version that's on the SSD that came with the computer. The button itself also works on Windows 10 because on the boot up menu that says "hit any key" I can hit it and it brings me to my desktop. Bluetooth mouse works fine but I'd like to get the button on the laptop itself working if possible.
ima just say it is craaaazy to me that you made a video about entering the mechanical keyboard space starting with a low-profile lmaoo, the need to experience the feel and sound of normal-profile keyboards is necessary before you settle on preferring low-profile also where did you go this vid was made a year ago and you disappeared?
Hello, could you help me? I reinstalled Windows and now the touch screen doesn't work properly and neither does the sound. I tried several Windows and reinstalled the driver, but it didn't work.
Same thing happened to me and others when you reinstall windows. I made a video about it. If you go to www.slagletech.com and look in the forum under “mini laptop” there’s a tutorial and a link to all the correct drivers for it. Try that and let me know how it goes.
@@justinmc1093 Sorry for the delayed response. I made a typo. Here is a direct link to where I mentioned: www.slagle-tech.com/forum/7-inch-mini-laptop/mini-7-inch-laptop-signed-drivers
I know someone has to have said this by now. But that knocking sound while printing is your extruder skipping due to being overloaded. You likely have a clog
I live through the age of netbooks and I can appreciate the form factor. It is not meant to replace your daily driver but I use it on the weekends when I'm out and about with the family in case I need to ssh to the work server if I get an urgent support call. Other than that, it is practically 'useless'.
I took a good look a the thermistor, and apparently one of the two wires to my thermistor was detached! what i did was twisted them back together and it worked like a charm!
just under 300 euro would it cost at ali express...eklusiv the import taxes of our country...then its too expensiv for me as homeless, iam tired of using android for dayly inet work...
Forward A Year,I Have This,But Its Branded “Zwing” Took It Out The Other Night With An All Sky Astrophotography Camera For The Meteor Shower..I Was Impressed,Over 2 Hrs And It Was Still Around 60%..And Mine Came Activated..Got It Thru Amazon
So I was doing an hours long large print and at about 3/4 of the way through it the printer stopped and gave this error message - 'Thermal Runaway: Bed. Printer Halted. Please Reset.' Up to this point it was working just fine. I turned the printer off let it sit for a bit, turned it back on and resumed the print. and a few minutes later the same error message happened. I can still print small things as long as they pretty much stay in the center of the bed. The board in my printer is the Creality v4.2.7 The firmware is Marlin 2.0.6 Ender - 3.
I have also found out if I printed a great deal layers start failing I believe have a bad Thermistor, I started using it again and small stuff I could print with fewer layers but, when I got up in large prints it would fail. melting or not staying together is a tell tell sign it need replaced.
Make sure that the loop running PyGame is in the main non-threaded part of the program. I spoke about it in a later video briefly. PyGame crashes if its main loop is threaded.
That was actually my review at 03:18. Eventually, the PC crapped itself a few days after that review. The BSOD were so bad, that they even corrupt the video (like when you kick a NES while fighting the final boss), making me think it was related to RAM. After the random BSOD, the system would not POST. I reflowed pretty much the whole board (RAM, CPU and chipset), it revived, but eventually failed. Errors occurred even while installing Win11 (oh-oh, not good). I checked components under my thermal camera and found a suspicious SMD capacitor, but that wasn't the problem. Finally, had a spare SSD with W11 installed already (yeah, try that in WinXP), and the thing booted up with all the expect flags under the device manager. Reloaded all drivers provided by the Manufacturer, and there it is, working, no BSODs (tried prime for some minutes, all good), but I'm suspicious one will come any time. I never really suspected the SSD because of the nature of the random BSOD and video corruption, it even checked OK under CHKDSK, Crystaldiskinfo and some other stuff I ran. In the meantime, I will torture the removed SSD (branded middlefinger CO LTD Tech), which is similar to yours. These systems lack badly from BIOS updates, which MIGHT solve some of these issues (currently running 5.13 from 08/04/22). BTW, I'm glad to see that an owner's group was made after all to try work out some of these issues, and if not, at least works as group therapy. :)
