Great video, including the struggle! 😉🔧👍 Thx for showing how the variator works - never seen one before. Do I assume correctly that they do not get lubricated, as the lubricant would transfer to the belts, causing them to slip?
I love these 200 series tractors. I’m a huge fan of the Peerless 2300 transmission. I wish they’d made the transmission with a high/ low range instead of using the variator… Great informative video though, nice work!
Love my 214 with the tiller on tha back. My variator is becoming problematic though, time to see how worn out it's getting. I'll try cleaning then see where that leads..
As a 30 plus years as a heavy truck mechanic and I'm working on a fleet of mixers which are hard enough to do anything to. They have a terrible life but anyway I've done that several hundred times but there were a couple times when heating them and all of a sudden the ball and spring shoot out like a bullet. I'm just curious to see if that's happened to any of you guys. Please just be careful and aware that it could happen. Can you imagine a smoking hot steel ball embedded in your eyeball. Please be safe. Ty for putting this up for people to to see and then possibly understand what the dangers are. 👍🇨🇦🔧
If there was ever a video I wanted to make a donation for, and I never have, this would be it. Hurricane Helena has it like the walking dead .... Newborn and wife need generator... thank you very much
The piece is the cap vent I assume you probably found out by now but thank you for the video, I enjoy watching repair videos that remind me of old days, that is when there's no college football games on
Great video! I especially appreciate you taking the time to point out the correct governor spring in the description. Mine was stretched out, which was causing it to not run right. All the online diagrams pointed to the wrong spring but you got it right. Thank you!
Thank u sir.... I replaced the carb on mine an once I turn it on it stays running on super high RPMs, can't get it to run smoothly so I turn it off....I hope I just have a missing governor spring.
Then there’s people like me who live at the end of a dirt road with stones, rocks and who knows what, and then an asphalt driveway. I set my skid shoes at least half an inch just to protect the auger, impeller, etc. There’s going to be a thin layer of snow remaining, so I’ll salt the driveway as needed. It’s always a compromise. I also have a smaller snow THROWER with rubber paddles I can use on the walkways and maybe the back deck if I get around to making a ramp.
Ten years ago I could buy them for 5 bucks or free , now it is 100 bucks and just junk engine, I’m lucky to have close to a hundred to get parts from or fix 😊
I'm wondering why you would not demonstrate that the splitter would still split hardwood after reducing the maximum pump pressure.. How would the valve get out of adjustment to start with?
Great video on shoe adjustment. It doesn't get any easier than that. I'm also getting my snowblower ready as well. So much nicer to work on them when it's not -35 out. Tightening up the belt drives and greasing all the bearings, should be a great winter. Cheers from Sask, Canada.
Thanks for watching! We didn't get much snow last winter. It was bittersweet because I love using my snow equipment, however, I deliver propane and less snow means less getting stuck in some driveway.
Only issue I have is you did not torque the bolts to a spec. Can you get away with it like you did...sure, but torque being even really helps with proper seal. Just a suggestion
Don't let extra fuel line in the tank. To much will let the filter get lodged in the top of the tank when saw is turned on it's side, limiting the amount of fuel you can run with. The filter needs to set on the tank bottom and return there when up righted.
Bought a use Wild Thing for $20.00 because it didn't run. Found the two hoses on the carb (one from tank and one to primer bulb) were switched. Pressing the primer actually flooded the carb. Easy fix. Great video but to much cutting the hose time.
Thanks for watching! See my video about NOT buying those cheap gears from Amazon. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QP9rDVynxKI.htmlsi=1_umTJPVX91TRgIT
The only thing I would do different would be to use a rubber mallet and lg socket to put the seal in vs a ball hamer and punch. Less chance of damaging the seal.
Your video is my go to reference whenever I take apart my Briggs & Stratton carb. Thank you for taking the time to put out this excellent video. You da man!
Here's the million dollar question then on this fuel delivery system. With everything in brand new condition should the pump provide fuel to the needle and seat under ANY pressure at all ? We know the pump can lift a column of gasoline from the gas tank fuel level up to the needle/seat level (whatever that column of fuel weighs). Beyond that, is there say an additional 2 or 3 psi to maintain the fuel bowl level? If not then we need to bore that orifice in the center of the seat to provide adequate fuel flow. This means the needle will then move up further than before to halt the fuel flow.....a higher fuel level in the bowl unless one can heat and bend the plastic float slightly. I recently discovered my stock factory fuel line from the tank to the pump was completely plugged with a silicone/tarry feeling black solid material impeding fuel almost completely. Replaced all the line but still struggling to keep this 2013 yth24k48 running. Anyone know if a good dose of seafoam that i had poured in the gas tank two months ago could account for the breakdown of the inner layer of my factory fuel line ?
My questipn is, how did you male the table saw fence with wood? I need to do the same because my table saw fence keeps randomly breaking. This would be the 2nd table saw Ive bought just for the table saw fence.
I apologize for not including that info. Unfortunately, it wasn't mine. It was a customer and I don't remember who it was. However, you should be able to contact Toro for the engine and carburetor info.
I have a similar Huskee 22 ton with a 6.5 hp engine. It does not have the brass valve nut you show. Is there any other way to adjust the hydraulic fluid flow?
