Welcome to my channel!! I love to work and fabricate on my mopars, I am no pro but I make the best of what I know. I am extremely biased but I can appreciate anything clean. I game and fish to, so some of that my end up on here to. I try and upload weekly and am definitely looking for tips and trick to make better videos, so any suggestions would be helpful.
I came here to see how to get the emblem trim peice off on the front. Great video! I wanted to replace mine because it's peeling and faded, but found out a new one is about $700. Ya... No. It's gonna stay faded and peeling lol.
2 things, Open break fluid reservoir so you don't damage anything from the pressure, second put a couple lug nuts on to secure the rotor from moving, makes it easier during reassembly. Otherwise awesome video and good job. If you don't open your brake lines break dust, dirt will accrue in the lines but shouldn't hurt anything.
Appreciated the video. I changed for 2011 200 today. Pretty challenging to get my hand to the clip to release it. Took a while to figure out to flip the red tab down at the back. Also, in the engine well the connector was cliped down and I had to pull it off to get it up where I could separate the electrical connectors. Not sure this will fix it for me. Other videos shows that often the real failed part (barring human damage to the sensor wiring) is the tone ring in the wheel axial/bearing which the sensor is reading off of. Apparently the ring can break. So if the sensor does not fix, I guess that would be the next part to try.
The plastic grear spins on a plastic rod, and the rod snaps, and then the blend doors actuator just clicks a buch till it shuts off, I does that till you fix it
Did you have to do anything in particular when bleeding the brakes? Does the ABS need to have its fuse pulled out? Did you have to have the truck started to pump the brakes while bleeding?
I just bought whatever was the cheapest on eBay at the time, and yes, it is still holding up great. I have no idea on the brand, sorry. I can probably go back into my past purchases if you are really interested in the brand.
I have no idea. That's a completely different body style. I did not have to get the sensors reprogrammed. Sorry, I'm not much help. Maybe someone who knows more will chime in
I’m having the same issue. It’s the actual “ blend door” good luck they discontinued the part I found one at a wrecking yard but the entire dash has to come out 🤦♀️
@@JenSurberUCMontana Jen i got the part on Ebay I replaced it and the dash dont have to come out. Pul the glove box door off its right there to the right. I fixed noo head by bleeding the thermostat housing.
@@JenSurberUCMontana No it doesnt make your heat come on it directs air flow . Mine was clicking and didnt open the door for airflow. Last Winter I had no heat and I changed the Thermostat. Buy one from Chrysler dont buy aftermarket as they dont last.
@@anthonyrippo1223 I changed the thermostat Bled the thermostat housing and changed the actuator clicking and still no heat. The heater core hoses are hot it’s not the heater core It’s pissing me off what else could it be? I have no heat and I’m in Montana lol
The visor clips on my 200 brake constantly because I use my visor to block the morning sun. If they use the better quality plastic it would last longer but it's all about the cost.
Thanks for the video. I replaced the actuator and it is working. However, it kind of makes a hum when it switches between the modes. (Like an electronic motor sound). I don't notice my other actuators doing this.
What a F’ing bitch I can get the damn plugs off.. they are seized on. On top of the wheel well. I released the red tab now I can’t pull them pull apart. Do you have a trick?
Thank you for posting this. Constructive criticism I'd share would be to edit out all the behind the scenes recording woes. It should be like 4 minutes long. Step by step - you'll need a " ", " ", remove this this and this. Removing this is dependent on the size of your hand and may not be necessary. Yada yada
Not sure what your working on in the dark, but my bump stops, on my 05 ram 2500 diesel 2wd, are just inside the wheel on the lower a frame. Something that everyone tells me "that it can't be", but it is. A big cone shape. I have yet been able to find a replacement for them!
I definitely recommend making sure you have a very stubby, or a 90 degree screwdriver. Even with a 90 degree screwdriver the space you're working in is extremely tight. Replacing this is a giant hassle, but cheaper than that $700 quoted by two different shops.
I have this exact same year and model. Thank you for explaining the damn ticking! Lol. I'll get the new part this weekend and let you know how it goes.
So I don’t have to unscrew the caliper bolts off the bracket just remove the bracket then I can remove the caliper off the bracket by pulling away on the slide pins ?
Yea on the back calipers, you can unbolt the bottom then rotate the caliper on the top pin till it clears the rotor then slide it out removingthe caliper.
@@billmopar so my bottom is rounded off badly and I just wanna remove the bracket from the spindal would I still be able to remove the caliper off the bracket once removed off the spindal without having to actually remove the slider guide pins
@@rockfordhx2768 I haven't ever done it that way but if you could do it that way I wouldn't see why that wouldn't work, I can't really remember what that all looks like back so I'm not sure honestly.
So you basically cut off the cup thing that holds the factory bumpstop and put a shortened rubber bumpstop directly on the frame in the same location as the original bumpstop?
Yea, lighting is definitely an issue in my videos. Haven't made that investment into lights yet. I do what I can with what I have currently. But if there's s question you have I might be able to help that way.
Thank you for posting this! I'm doing the front wheel bearings and considered replacing the speed sensors, but with one of the bearings shredding itself apart in the steering knuckle, it probably affects how the sensor works, so I'm cleaning the knuckle and replacing the bearing and will see what happens. I'm looking forward to getting rid of my 2012 200. Those idiot engineers at Chrysler turned some of the easiest things to fix on this car into nightmares. Wheel off to replace the battery? Give me a break =/
Update: bearing replacement fixed speed sensor problem without having to replace speed sensor. Be sure to clean all debris out of the steering knuckle!
Yea, I had the magnetic strip that is on the back of the wheel bearing blew apart. I thought it was the dumbest thing I've seen but it is what it is, it's just my day/winter beater.
@@billmopar a few thousand miles later the passenger side wheel bearing also started disintegrating on the inside so I got the ABS/TSC warning again. Good thing I already had the bearing and the spindle nut from the last job! Took plenty of whacks with the sledge hammer to bust that rusty bearing assembly loose!
