Trucks, boats, pretty much anything mechanical or work with hands, I enjoy doing! Stay up to date by subscribing to my channel. If you would like to get in contact with me feel free to shoot me an email at lightning.house69@gmail.com
@@bg4097 not great, you have to kind of angle it so it can “breathe” as your pour but it comes with a drill bit and vent cap. You are drilling into plastic, no chance of it sparking so I highly recommend using the vent cap because it pours so much easier
@@lightninghouse6385 I wonder why it's so slow? The cans most of us use don't have vent holes currently. Maybe the new safety spouts we can't stand allow air during their pours ?
I have a 18 Premier 2.0t and have been doing that trick for yrs and yes it works for the 9sp auto as well. Starters are very expensive and this crap kills them and as mentioned reaks havoc on electrical system. Unfortunately the batteries don't last long, 3yrs appears to be the max before I start having issues.
So when the camera shows the gauge cluster in front of the steering wheel, look at the bottom right corner of the cluster readout, and you will see it change from L1 up to L6. Hope this helps
No, this took over a month to do. There is an updated replacement part you can get, that is 300+ dollars but if your engine is otherwise healthy, I would consider it worth buying
I changed my battery and now my stop/start does work and my check engine light is on. Can you help me? I would like to turn the feature back on and see if the check engine light will go off
Are you saying the stop/start is now working or is not working? If it is working and you do not want it to turn off, just put it in L while stopped with the brakes applied, and click the button on the shifter up until you re in the top gear and it will function normally without the autostop
On new cars, the L means manual mode, because it allows you to manually shift using the paddle switch on the gear selector BUT you can drive it as a normal automatic in the mode by putting it in L and then clicking the button on the selector to the top gear, and it will operate normally through all gears, and you don’t have to do anything else until you turn the car back on to go somewhere else, then again just put it in L, select the top gear, and it will operate as a normal automatic, just without auto start stop
Only just found your video as I've found a forward control motor that is a really good price that I'm looking for a way to convert to tiller just like this. Thanks heaps for posting
Yes, keep it in L while driving, just remember to click the button on the shifter handle up to “6” or “8” depending on how many gears your transmission has. Verify it’s at 6 or 8 on your gauge cluster. This will insure that you transmission shifts through all the gears normally and drives exactly the same, except without auto start and stop
Car has to be on! Turn the car on, when you are ready to put it into drive, instead put it in “l” and click the shifter toggle to 6 and then put it into park as normal when you’re done driving
Thank you! My car stalled in the middle of a busy road yesterday because of that auto stop/start feature!! Now my check engine light is on. My car has had problems starting. I took it to the dealership 3 weeks and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. I have a 2018 equinox and had to replace the battery 3 years ago. The battery should have lasted more than 2 years!! I bought a battery with a 5 year warranty. So it's either my battery, starter or alternator ( if the car has one). I definitely believe it's due to that stupid auto/stop start feature!! Hopefully my car starts in the morning. Taking it to the dealership for the check engine light and telling them NOT to turn that stupid auto stop/start back on!!!
Unfortunately there is no way I know of to “disable” it but this method in the video is a sure fire way to avoid the auto start stop. And it is definitely away to rule out battery/alternator/starter issues. Cheers
@lightninghouse6385 update. It was the starter and my battery that had to be replaced. I drive alot in town so you can imagine how much that auto stop/start came on. 2 batteries replaced and a starter in 4 years!! Ridiculous!! The advisor at the dealership agrees its from rhe auto stop/start. It's very hard on the electrical system, the starter and more! She said they are having vehicles coming in that need new starters and batteries all the time. There's no way a starter should need to be replaced in 2 years or 2 batteries in 3 years!!!
You need to add heat to that application for about 10 minutes super high siphon off the smoke cool it down and do it one more time and then you have a better surface
It'll be much easier to replace the fuel pump if only Toyota would create an opening access hatch on the floor of the back passenger seat directly above the fuel tank where the fuel pump is. Dropping the tank & reattaching is labor intensive & dangerous especially with the fuel leaking out onto the floor.
Exactly what I did to mine. Laid a barrier between the two , a couple well placed cuts and , access. Unfortunately I've been in the tank 3-4 times. So , yeah , glad I did that.
Check the ignition coil and make sure the air the gas ratio is optimal for your engine check the seals to just to make sure it not leaking oil there for burning it off creating the white smoke
You can, a lot of the time you can find a kit for the outboard, “teleflex” is a brand that makes cable steering kits that are pretty much universal. You may have to make a control arm for an outboard if it isn’t already set up for it. I’ve also seen people use steel cable and pulleys to rig up their own steering
Looking back, I’d keep my eye out for the proper tiller handle for whatever motor you use, just for the safety and ergonomics. Probably next month I’ll be finishing up the center console setup on this boat that I didn’t finish last season lol
Great video, but I have one critique, you really want to try and go the modern route, don't want to have an incident where you get thrown off the boat and you didn't hit the kill switch. Saw a video of some coast guard having to chase down a boat with a similar setup where the operator got tossed. Fortunately nobody got hurt in that but it's something you should consider. Cost is under $20 a kill switch and lanyard.
I’ve since sold the truck, but it helped a lot. The added fuel pressure got rid of some stumbling it had and corrected some power loss it had at highway speeds and corrected it from hunting for gears because of the power loss. I recommend this on any 4Runner from this era
Interesting question. I’m not 100% sure I know the reason for the rocks being there, maybe you have a better idea. The potting is there to seal the electronics and keep vibrations down, but why fill it with rocks? I don’t know. I think I’m going to attempt to put a ford pinto ignition set up on it for simplicity
@@lightninghouse6385 I worked for 7 years foe a failure analysis company. The main reason that manufactures use potting compound is to make it difficult to copy their design. As you have shown, there is less than $10 worth of electronics in this module. If you drew out the circuit schematic, you could build it. That is what after market companies do, but only if there is a high enough demand.
@@jimmysquires5093 that’s good to know. I’m definitely going to come up with something other than being the updated replacement part because as you stated, no reason for it to be an expensive rube-Goldberg type proprietary ignition system. I’m thinking a simply 4 cylinder car distributor and coil with the advance locked out
It’s been mothballed due to life events. It’s got 1 low compression cylinder. If the bored are good and it just needs a new piston, sometime in the next few months I will order the piston and updated switch box (about 350$ by itself). I will be posting that up when I do it
I'll give credit where it is due man that is a sweet ass video. Dam good idea .I was just wondering how to correct my boat and this really helped good job .I am a mechanic been one since was 12 I'm 57 now.great information Joey bunker saline Louisiana
I had the same thought the whole time. It took weeks to dissolve all the putty with acetone only to find out it wasn’t fixable. There is an updated switch box(newer design that looks different) that can be bought for these, but as expected it’ll run you 300-500$
@@lightninghouse6385 I'm getting out of the Mercruiser sterndrive business after 10 years. These are still a dream. Haven't tested switch box. The wiring is nice and crumbly.
@@gearheadgregwi I’ve been on Craigslist and FB marketplace for the last 3 years or so now looking at old Mercs for sale and for whatever reason the wiring crumbles very easily with time. Must of been something in the material they used
I wouldve rigged the thing to a new steering sytem if i was you.. I have a dinghy and i always wanted to setup a steering wheel but i dont see a good way to do that
If you check out my other videos, I have since added a steering wheel system using a teleflex kit. I’m currently working on making it a center console setup
@@lightninghouse6385 thats cool. Just me personally its something i always wanted to do but my boats not really meant for it being its inflatable.. Then my motor doesnt have neutral you start it and it goes so its also probably not the safest thing to do anyway
Should have spent 2 hours per year oil undercoating the chassis frame doors crossmembers all panels suspension fenders box . Been doing my cars trucks trailers for decades if done correctly it saves them . My 1992 tracker is mint despite being driven in the salt belt . Recently I did a minor rest0 on a 2011 f150 4x4 the rockers and cab corners were destroyed by once welded in new ones and painted I drilled 1/2 holes in pillars and rockers and mixed light oil and asphalt liquid roof coating and some kerosene into the holes and then undercoating plugs . After I completed all the brakes and replaced front struts and got front 4x4 working i power washed the entire chassis frame inside and out and sprayed it with dilute phosphoric acid let it sit over night . One the chassis was dry painted the frame with machinery rust paint and let it dry then oil undercoated every thing including all internal boxed in frame sections crossmembers . The f150 will be oiled annually and touched up . This month I will be lifting up carpets and applying some used atf and some heavy oil to the floor putting plastic clear plastic sheeting then carpet . I like driving older cars truck that look and drive like new for a fraction of the cost of new ones. One nice thing about oil undercoating is all your bolts are easily removed especially after a few annually applications 👍👍
ive only had this vehicle for about two years, and its been a rolling project since i got it. Its funny you mention that about coating the frame because within the past month i have coated the whole underside with new synthetic atf. ive defenitely had some heat shields rattle loose because of the oil. I wish i knew about oil coatings even 2 years ago. It really does help to stop rust in it's tracks. Cheers
@@lightninghouse6385 do it annually if your exposed to salt like me in Ontario near Detroit. But if you don’t see winter salt every 2 years would work humidity even rusts cars in the south also and storage in garages all panels and under carriage pick up condensation which drips into welds and seams
